wrap dress

{{See also|Chinoiserie in fashion|Japonisme}}

Wrap-over neckline which closes to the right side originated in China and can be traced back to the Shang dynasty (1600 to 1046 B.C) before spreading to other countries (such as Korea and Japan) while wrap-over neckline which closes to the left were basic styles of garments which were widely used in Central Asia and East Asia, as well as Europe, from West Asia.{{Cite journal |last=Yu |first=Song-Ok |date=1980 |title=A Comparative Study on the Upper Garment in the Ancient East and West |url=https://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO198020336527455.page |journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume |volume=3 |pages=29–46 |issn=1229-6880}}

{{See also|Garment collars in Hanfu}}

File:Tang dynasty woman wearing a cross-collared robe 唐周昉调琴啜茗图 (cropped).jpg}} with a wide belt enclosing the waist, Tang dynasty]]

The traditional clothing of the Han Chinese, {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}}, are traditionally loose, wrap-style garments; these include wrap-style robes, such as the {{Transliteration|zh|ancient shenyi}} (which sews a top and a skirt to form a dress), the {{Transliteration|zh|zhiduo}}, the {{Transliteration|zh|daopao}}, and the {{Transliteration|zh|jiaoling pao}} (a one-piece dress), etc., as well as wrap-style upper garments, such as the {{Transliteration|zh|chang'ao}} and {{Transliteration|zh|ru}}, etc., and as short-sleeved or sleeveless wrap-style upper garment such as {{Transliteration|zh|banbi}} and {{Transliteration|zh|dahu}}, etc.{{NoteTag|See the relevant pages for sources and more detail information; other wrap-style Chinese garments could also include the Banbi}} The Chinese wrap-over neckline typically closes on the right side like the alphabetic letter《y》and is referred as {{Transliteration|zh|jiaoling youren}} ({{Lang-zh|c=交领右衽|l=intersecting collar right lapel}}) but can occasionally close on the left side under some circumstances in a style known as {{Transliteration|zh|jiaoling zuoren}} ({{Lang-zh|c=交领左衽|l=intersecting collar left lapel}}).{{NoteTag|See the page Garment collars in Hanfu for sources and more detail information}}

{{Multiple image

| image1 = Lacquer painting from State of Ch'u (楚國), discovered in Ching-mên city (荊門) 01 (Cropped).jpg

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| caption1 = Quju shenyi tied with a large sash, China, 704–223 B.C.

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| caption2 = Zhiju shenyi, a form of long wrap robe created by sewing wrap top to a skirt, typically worn with a sash, China

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| caption3 = Chinese wrap top for a child, Qing dynasty, China

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| image4 = Sjhhanfu.jpg

| caption4 = Sai Jinhua in a long-length paofu; a type of hanfu, 1920s

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| image5 = 直裾素纱襌衣, 2018-09-28.jpg

| caption5 = Zhiju shenyi, unearthed from the Mawangdui tomb, Han dynasty

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The {{Transliteration|zh|jiaoling youren}} was adopted by the Japanese in 718 AD through the Yoro Code which stipulated that all robes had to be closed from the left to the right in a typical Chinese way.{{Cite book |last=Washington. |first=Textile Museum |url=http://worldcat.org/oclc/1155973292 |title=The kimono inspiration : art and art-to-wear in America |date=1996 |publisher=Pomegranate Artbooks |isbn=0-87654-598-3 |oclc=1155973292}}

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| image6 = Kosode-kimono.gif

| caption6 = Wrap-design of the Japanese kosode and kimono

| image4 = 鼠平絹地梅樹模様着物-Kimono with Blossoming Plum Tree MET DP330776.jpg

| caption4 = Kimono, second half of 19th century

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Wrap-style garments which were tied with sash have very ancient origins in China and were later introduced in Japan influencing the design of the {{Transliteration|ja|kimono}}.{{Cite book |last=Geczy |first=Adam |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/828833691 |title=Fashion and orientalism : dress, textiles and culture from the 17th to the 21st century |date=2013 |publisher=Bloomsbury Academic |isbn=978-1-84788-600-2 |location=London |oclc=828833691}}{{Rp|page=122}} The {{Transliteration|ja|kimono}} originated from the Chinese {{Transliteration|zh|jiaoling pao}}, which gained popularity in the 8th-century Japanese court.{{Cite book |last=Sun |first=Ming-Ju |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/271671537 |title=Japanese kimono paper designs : coloring book |date=2007 |publisher=Dover |isbn=978-0-486-46223-3 |location=Mineola, N.Y. |oclc=271671537}}

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| image1 = Design of a San Toy published in 1901.png

| caption1 = San Toy (#4777), the Ladies' Chinese dressing or lounging sack, a design published in 1901 in The Delineator, Volume 57, p. 210

| image2 = The Chinese Summer dress.png

| caption2 = Chinese-style garments, including a wrap-top tied with belt, designed by US designers in 1910s, published from the Chinese Summer dress from Ladies’ Home Journal of June 1913: Vol 30 Issue 6, page 26 and 27

| image3 = Chinese and Japanese inspired wrap top.png

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| caption3 = Differences between the wrap closure of Chinese and Japanese inspired wrap-top, early 1900s, images from The Delineator, Volume 58, published in1901.

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| image4 = Japanese and Chinese wrap-top and wrap-robe 1900s.png

| caption4 = Japanese-style vs Chinese-style wrap-top and wrap-robe in the 1900s, American fashion, from The Delineator, Volume 56, published in 1900

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European clothing with wrap-style closure were heavily influenced by the popularity of Orientalism in the 19th century.{{NoteTag|Such as British tea gowns of the 19th century}} In the 20th century, Chinoiserie in fashion gained popularity and impacted many fashion designers of the time, including fashion designed based in the United States. According to the Ladies’ Home Journal of June 1913, volume 30, issue 6:{{Blockquote|text=Interest in the political and civic activities of the new China, which is more or less world-wide at this time, led the designers of this page [p.26] and the succeeding one [p.27] to look to that country for inspiration for clothes that would be unique and new and yet fit in with present-day modes and the needs and environments of American women [...]|author=|title=Ladies’ Home Journal: The Chinese Summer Dress, published in June 1913: Vol 30, issue 6|source=p. 26}}Chinoiserie continued to be popular in the 1920s and was a major influence in the dress feature and fashion design of this period; simultaneously, Japonisme also had a profound impact by influencing new forms of clothing designs of this period; for example, the use of wrap top and obi-like sash as an influence of the Japanese {{Transliteration|ja|Kimono}}.{{Cite book |last=Jirousek |first=Charlotte |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1048050192 |title=Ottoman dress & design in the West : a visual history of cultural exchange |date=2019 |others=Sara Catterall |isbn=978-0-253-04219-4 |location=Bloomington, Indiana |oclc=1048050192}}

File:The Ladies' home journal (1948) (14581973009).jpg

During the Great Depression, house dresses called "Hooverettes" were popular which employed a wrap design. Wrap dresses were designed by Elsa Schiaparelli in the 1930s{{cite web |title=Elsa Schiaparelli |url=http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Elsa_Schiaparelli |access-date=13 January 2014 |publisher=Vogue |archive-date=7 August 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140807053506/http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Elsa_Schiaparelli |url-status=dead }}{{cite news |last=Binkley |first=Christina |date=April 27, 2012 |title=Two Divas (One Dead) Talk Fashion |newspaper=The Wall Street Journal |url=https://online.wsj.com/news/articles/SB10001424052702303459004577362032939795986 |access-date=13 January 2014}} and by Claire McCardell in the 1940s, whose original 'popover' design, which was made out of denim, became the basis for a variety of wrap-around dresses.{{Cite book |last=Vanderlinde |first=Pamela |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1237650658 |title=Patternmaking for dress design : 9 iconic styles from Empire to cheongsam |date=2021 |isbn=978-1-350-09467-3 |location=London |oclc=1237650658}}{{Rp|page=105}} {{cite book |last=Polan |first=Brenda |url=https://archive.org/details/greatfashiondesi0000pola |title=The great fashion designers |author2=Tredre, Roger |publisher=Berg Publishers |year=2009 |isbn=9780857851758 |edition=English |location=Oxford |page=[https://archive.org/details/greatfashiondesi0000pola/page/93 93] |url-access=registration}} Fashion designer Charles James also designed a wrap dress.{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1081418859 |title=Global design history |date=2011 |others=Glenn Adamson, Giorgio Riello, Sarah Teasley |isbn=978-0-203-83197-7 |edition=1st |location=London |oclc=1081418859}}

In the early 1970s, Orientalism re-emerged as the West officially expressed eagerness towards the Far East. Oriental fashion, thus, re-surfaced in American fashion wear; American designers also showed these Oriental influences in their creation designs.{{Cite news |date=1972 |title=Ebony |volume=27 |work=Johnson Publishing Company |issue=4 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=XmAug0CHpV8C&dq=wrap+dress++oriental+influence&pg=PA112 |issn=0012-9011}}{{Rp|page=112}} The wrap-around lounging wear, which was inspired by the native Chinese dress, gained popularity among women during this period.{{Rp|page=112}}

File:Till boken - utställningen Kunglig Vintage - Livrustkammaren - 87644.tif

Although it is often claimed that Diane von Fürstenberg 'invented' what is known as the wrap dress in 1972/73,{{cite news |last=Grufferman |first=Barbara Hannah|title=The Wrap Star: Why Diane Von Fürstenberg Is Still On A Roll |url=http://www.huffingtonpost.com/barbara-hannah-grufferman/the-wrap-star-why-diane-von-furstenberg_b_1281376.html|access-date=13 January 2014|newspaper=The Huffington Post|date=20 February 2012}} Richard Martin, a former curator of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, noted that the form of Fürstenberg's design had already been "deeply embedded into the American designer sportswear tradition," with her choice of elastic, synthetic fabrics distinguishing her work from earlier wrap dresses.{{cite book |last=Martin |first=Richard |title=American ingenuity : sportswear, 1930s - 1970s|year=1998|publisher=Metropolitan Museum of Art |location=New York |isbn=9780870998638 |page=35 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=0ByvsBRNapAC&pg=PA35}} Her design is actually a two-pieces dress where a wrap top is sewn to a skirt,{{Rp|page=105}} similar to the making of the Chinese shenyi.

The Fürstenberg interpretation of the wrap dress, which was consistently knee-length, in a clinging jersey, with long sleeves, was so popular and so distinctive that the style has generally become associated with her.{{cite news |url=http://www.huffingtonpost.com/amanda-christine-miller/diane-von-furstenberg-on-_b_81590.html |first=Amanda Christine |last=Miller |date=January 16, 2008 |title=Diane von Fürstenberg On Wrap Dresses And The Joys Of Aging Gracefully |work=Huffington Post |access-date=27 June 2011}}{{cite web |url=http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Diane_von_Furstenberg |title=Diane von Fürstenberg |access-date=17 July 2012 |archive-date=8 August 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120808022300/http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Diane_von_Furstenberg |url-status=dead }}{{cite web |url=http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com/designers/diane-von-frstenberg/ |title=Diane von Fürstenberg |work=Fashion Model Directory |access-date=27 June 2011}} She has stated that her divorce inspired the design,{{cite news|title=Diane von Fürstenberg Wrap Dress Inspired By Designer's Divorce|url=http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/11/09/diane-von-furstenberg-wra_n_2103096.html|publisher=Huff Post|access-date=4 February 2013|first=Kelsey|last=Borresen|date=9 November 2012}} and also suggested it was created in the spirit of enabling women to enjoy sexual freedom.{{cite news|last=Walden|first=Celia|title=Diane von Fürstenberg: interview|url=http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG8430291/Diane-von-Furstenberg-interview.html|access-date=13 January 2014|newspaper=The Telegraph|date=6 April 2011|location=London}} The wrap dress that she designed in 1974 was a design re-interpretation of the {{Transliteration|ja|Kimono}}.{{Rp|page=105}} File:Michelle Obama in Mexico 2010.jpg wearing a Diane von Fürstenberg wrap dress in 2010]]

Wrap dresses achieved their peak of popularity in the mid to late 1970s, and the design, essentially a robe, has been credited with becoming a symbol of women's liberation in the 1970s.{{cite news |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/wrap-superstar-designer-diane-von-furstenberg-tells-her-story-801189.html |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220507/https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/wrap-superstar-designer-diane-von-furstenberg-tells-her-story-801189.html |archive-date=2022-05-07 |url-access=subscription |url-status=live |title=Wrap superstar: Designer Diane von Fürstenberg tells her story |date=March 27, 2008 |work=The Independent on Sunday |access-date=27 June 2011 |location=London}}{{cbignore}}{{cite web|author=Leora Tanenbaum|author-link=Leora Tanenbaum|title=Because of Slut-Shaming, the Wrap Dress Still Matters|url=http://www.huffingtonpost.com/leora-tanenbaum/because-of-slut-shaming-the-wrap-dress-still-matters_b_7769476.html|website=Huffington Post|access-date=15 July 2015|date=July 14, 2015}} They experienced renewed popularity beginning in the late 1990s, particularly after von Fürstenberg reintroduced her wrap dress in 1997; she, among others, has continued to design wrap dresses since then.{{cite book|last=McKean|first=Erin|title=The Hundred Dresses: The Most Iconic Styles of Our Time |year=2013 |publisher=Bloomsbury |location=New York|isbn=9781608199761|page=[https://archive.org/details/hundreddressesmo0000mcke/page/201 201]|url=https://archive.org/details/hundreddressesmo0000mcke|url-access=registration|author-link=Erin McKean|access-date=6 May 2013|quote="Revived in 1997, the dress again sold in the millions."}} The wrap dress's popularity and its quick disrobing, and perceived feminist significance have remained current into the mid-2010s. In 2004 a book dedicated entirely to Fürstenberg's wrap dresses was published.{{cite book|last=Talley|first=André Leon|title=Diane von Fürstenberg : the wrap|year=2004|publisher=Assouline|location=New York, NY|isbn=9782843235245}}

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• Robe
• Wrap (clothing)
• Chinoiserie in fashion
• Japonism

{{Reflist|2}}

{{Commons category|Wrap dresses}}

• [http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/1997.487 A 1970s von Fürstenberg jersey wrap dress] at the Metropolitan Museum of Art
• [http://www.latimes.com/fashion/alltherage/la-ar-diane-von-furstenberg-journey-of-a-dress-exhibition-opens-in-la-20140110,0,3993482.story "Diane von Fürstenberg 'Journey of a Dress' exhibition opens in L.A." by Booth Moore], Los Angeles Times, January 10, 2014

{{Clothing}}

{{American sportswear}}

Category:Dresses

Category:1970s fashion

Category:1990s fashion

Category:2010s fashion

Category:Feminism and the arts