:History of sushi

{{See also|Tapai}}

The earliest form of sushi, a dish today known as {{transliteration|ja|narezushi}}, originated in Southeast Asia where it was made to preserve freshwater fish, possibly in the Mekong River basin, which is now Laos, Cambodia, and Thailand, and in the Irrawaddy River basin, which is now Myanmar. {{Transliteration|ja|Narezushi}} in ancient China is first documented around the 4th century, when the Han Chinese migrated south to adopt this food from the Baiyue (the original non-Han inhabitants of southern China in the Neolithic, related to modern Southeast Asians).

Similar modern dishes which ferment fish in rice (or other grains) in other Asian rice cultures include {{lang|fil|burong isda}}, {{lang|fil|balao-balao}}, and {{lang|mdh|tinapayan}} of the Philippines; pekasam of Indonesia and Malaysia, {{transliteration|th|pla ra}} ({{lang|th|ปลาร้า}}) of Thailand; sikhae ({{lang|ko|식해}}) of Korea; and Món cá muối ủ chua, Cá chua, and Cá thính chua of Vietnam.{{cite book|first1=Priscilla C.|last1= Sanchez|title =Philippine Fermented Foods: Principles and Technology|chapter =Lactic-Acid-Fermented Fish and Fishery Products|publisher =University of the Philippines Press|year =2008|page=264|isbn = 9789715425544|chapter-url =https://books.google.com/books?id=smfr-KYgtWkC&pg=PT10}}{{Cite book|last1=Lee|first1=Cherl-Ho|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/395550059|title=Fish fermentation technology|last2=Steinkraus|first2=Keith H|last3=Reilly|first3=P.J. Alan|date=1993|publisher=United Nation University Press|location=Tokyo|language=English|oclc=395550059|access-date=2021-06-17|archive-date=2021-01-13|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210113054410/https://www.worldcat.org/title/fish-fermentation-technology/oclc/395550059%26referer%3Dbrief_results|url-status=live}}{{cite news|last=Hill|first=Amelia|title=Chopsticks at dawn for a sushi showdown|url=http://observer.guardian.co.uk/uk_news/story/0,,2185313,00.html|newspaper=The Guardian|access-date=25 September 2011|location=London|date=2007-10-08|archive-date=2007-12-17|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071217051859/http://observer.guardian.co.uk/uk_news/story/0,,2185313,00.html|url-status=live}}{{cite journal |last1=Guerra |first1=M.I. |title=Studies on tinapayan, an indigenous fish ferment in Central Mindanao (Philippines) |journal=AGRIS |date=1994 |volume=1 |issue=2 |pages=364–365}}{{Cite web |date=2024-05-04 |title=Unveiling the origins of sushi: a journey through Vietnam |url=https://tuoitrenews.vn/news/ttnewsstyle/20240504/unveiling-the-origins-of-sushi-a-journey-through-vietnam/79556.html |access-date=2024-05-20 |website=Tuoi Tre News |language=en-US}}{{Cite web |last=Hoàng |first=Nam |date=2023-03-20 |title=Những món cá muối chua vốn là đặc sản của nhiều nơi, lưu ý gì khi ăn để an toàn cho sức khỏe? |url=https://suckhoedoisong.vn/nhung-mon-ca-muoi-chua-von-la-dac-san-cua-nhieu-noi-luu-y-gi-khi-an-de-an-toan-cho-suc-khoe-169230320013631889.htm |access-date=2024-05-20 |website=suckhoedoisong.vn |language=vi}}

The prototypical {{Transliteration|ja|narezushi}} is made by lacto-fermenting fish with salt and rice in order to control putrefaction. In Japan the dish's distribution overlaps with the introduction of wet-field rice cultivation during the Yayoi period.{{cite journal |author1=Hiroto Takamiya |title=Introductory Routes of Rice to Japan: An Examination of the Southern Route Hypothesis |journal=Asian Perspectives |year=2001 |volume=40 |issue=2 |pages=209–226 |doi=10.1353/asi.2001.0026 |publisher=University of Hawaii Press|url=http://scholarspace.manoa.hawaii.edu/bitstream/10125/17154/1/AP-v40n2-209-226.pdf |hdl=10125/17154 |s2cid=56144192 |hdl-access=free }} Passages mention ancient Japanese people in comparison with a son of the legendary King Shao Kang who was ruling over the Yangtze delta:{{Cite book|last1=Tsunoda|first1=Ryūsaku|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1107990|title=Japan in the Chinese dynastic histories: Later Han through Ming dynasties.|last2=Goodrich|first2=L. Carrington|date=1951|publisher=P.D. and I. Perkins|location=South Pasadena [Calif.|language=English|oclc=1107990}}

Men great and small, all tattoo their faces and decorate their bodies with designs. From olden times envoys who visited the Chinese Court called themselves "grandees" [{{lang|zh|大夫}}]. A son of the ruler Shao Kang of Xia, when he was enfeoffed as lord of Kuaiji, cut his hair and decorated his body with designs in order to avoid the attack of serpents and dragons. The Wa, who are fond of diving into the water to get fish and shells, also decorated their bodies in order to keep away large fish and waterfowl. Later, however, the designs became merely ornamental.

During the third century, Chinese travelers in Japan recorded examples of Wu traditions including ritual teeth-pulling, tattooing and carrying babies on backs. Other records at the time show that Japan already had the same customs recognized today. These include clapping during prayers, eating from wooden trays and eating raw fish (also a traditional custom of Jiangsu and Zhejiang before pollution made this impractical).Encounters of the Eastern Barbarians, Wei Chronicles

{{Transliteration|ja|Narezushi}} appears in the Chinese dictionary in the second century CE as the character {{nihongo3|pickled fish with salt and rice|鮓|sa}},{{cite web |url=http://www.businessinsider.com/the-complete-history-of-sushi-2015-2 |title=The complete history of sushi|work=Business Insider |date=9 February 2015 |access-date=1 August 2017}} which was during a period in which the Han Chinese were expanding south of the Yangtze river, adopting the food from the non-Han peoples. {{Transliteration|zh|Kuai}}, sashimi, and {{Transliteration|ko|hoe}} can be traced back to Dongyi, a pre-Han Baiyue cultural area in East China. Confucius was born near present-day Nanxin Town, Qufu, Shandong, China, and he was known to have enjoyed eating raw meat and fish.{{Cite web|title=공자 사모님 힘드셨겠네 : 김학민의 음식이야기|url=http://legacy.h21.hani.co.kr/section-021087000/2003/07/021087000200307160468051.html|access-date=2021-01-11|website=legacy.h21.hani.co.kr}}

In the {{nihongo|Yōrō Code|養老律令|Yōrō-ritsuryō}} of 718, the characters for "鮨" and "鮓" are written as a tribute to the Japanese imperial court, and although there are various theories as to what exactly this food was, it is possible that it referred to {{Transliteration|ja|narezushi}}.{{cite web|url=https://style.nikkei.com/article/DGXMZO30379530R10C18A5000000?page=2|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201028122209/https://style.nikkei.com/article/DGXMZO30379530R10C18A5000000?page=2|script-title=ja:握りずし 始まりは江戸っ子のホットドッグスタンド|language=ja|publisher=Nikkei, Inc.|date=9 June 2018|archive-date=28 October 2020|access-date=4 April 2023}}

Until the early 19th century, sushi slowly changed and the Japanese cuisine changed as well. The Japanese started eating three meals a day, rice was boiled instead of steamed, and of large importance was the development of rice vinegar.{{cite book|last=Mpritzen|first=Ole G.|title=Sushi: Food for the Eye, the Body and the Soul|year=2009|publisher=Springer Science-Business Media|page=15}}

During the Muromachi period (1336–1573), the Japanese invented a style of sushi called {{Transliteration|ja|namanare}} or {{Transliteration|ja|namanari}} ({{lang|ja|生成、なまなれ、なまなり}}), which means "partially fermented". The fermentation period of {{Transliteration|ja|namanare}} was shorter than that of the earlier {{Transliteration|ja|narezushi}}, and the rice used for fermentation was also eaten with the fish. In other words, with the invention of {{Transliteration|ja|namanare}}, sushi changed from a preserved fish food to a food where fish and rice are eaten together. After the appearance of {{Transliteration|ja|namanare}}, sake and sake lees were used to shorten fermentation, and vinegar was used in the Edo period.{{cite web|url=https://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/jisdh/31/4/31_201/_pdf/-char/ja|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230214220815/https://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/jisdh/31/4/31_201/_pdf/-char/ja|title=The evolution of sushi and the power of vinegar|pages=201, 202|author=Hirofumi Akano|publisher=Japan Science and Technology Agency|archive-date=14 February 2023|access-date=4 April 2023}}

During the Edo period (1603–1867), a third type of sushi, {{nihongo3|"fast sushi"|早寿司、早ずし|haya-zushi}}, was developed. {{Transliteration|ja|Haya-zushi}} differed from earlier sushi in that instead of lactic fermentation of rice, vinegar, a fermented food, was mixed with rice to give it a sour taste so that it could be eaten at the same time as the fish. Previously, sushi had evolved with a focus on shortening the fermentation period, but with the invention of {{Transliteration|ja|haya-zushi}}, which is simply mixed with vinegar, the fermentation process was eliminated and sushi became a fast food. Many types of sushi known in the world today, such as {{nihongo3|"scattered sushii"|散らし寿司|chirashizushi}}, {{nihongo3|"Inari sushi"|稲荷寿司|inarizushi}}, {{nihongo3|"rolled sushi"|巻寿司|makizushi}}, and {{nihongo3|"hand-pressed sushi"|握り寿司|nigirizushi}}, were invented during this period, and they are a type of {{Transliteration|ja|haya-zushi}}. Each region utilizes local flavors to produce a variety of sushi that has been passed down for many generations. A 1689 cookbook describes {{Transliteration|ja|haya-zushi}}, and a 1728 cookbook describes pouring vinegar over {{nihongo3|"box sushi"|箱ずし|hako-zushi}} (square sushi made by filling a wooden frame with rice).

Today's style of {{nihongo||握り寿司|nigirizushi}}, consisting of an oblong mound of rice with a slice of fish draped over it, became popular in Edo (contemporary Tokyo) in the 1820s or 1830s. One common story of the origin of {{Transliteration|ja|nigirizushi}} origins is of the chef Hanaya Yohei (1799–1858), who invented or perfected the technique in 1824 at his shop in Ryōgoku.{{cite book |last1=Bestor |first1=Theodore C. |author-link=Theodore C. Bestor|title=Tsukiji: The Fish Market at the Center of the World |page=141 |isbn=9780520923584|date=13 July 2004 |publisher=University of California Press }} The {{Transliteration|ja|nigirizushi}} of this period was somewhat different from modern {{Transliteration|ja|nigirizushi}}. The sushi rice of this period was about three times the size of today's {{Transliteration|ja|nigirizushi}}. The amount of vinegar used was half that of today's sushi, and the type of vinegar developed during this period, called {{nihongo3|"red vinegar"|赤酢|aka-su}}, was made by fermenting sake lees. They also used slightly more salt than in modern times instead of sugar. Seafood served over rice was prepared in a variety of ways. This red vinegar was developed by Nakano Matazaemon (中野 又佐衛門), who is the founder of Mizkan, a company that still develops and sells vinegar and other seasonings today.

File:US Navy 090813-N-0413R-250 Sailors and their families enjoy sushi while visiting the historic city of Kamakura, Japan during orientation.jpg restaurant in Kamakura]]

In 1958, Yoshiaki Shiraishi opened the first {{nihongo|conveyor belt sushi restaurant|回転寿司|kaiten-zushi}} named "Genroku Zushi" in Higashi-Osaka. In conveyor belt sushi restaurants, conveyor belts installed along tables and counters in the restaurant transport plates of sushi to customers. Generally, the bill is based on the number of plates, with different colored plates representing the price of the sushi.{{cite news|last1=Magnier|first1=Mark|title=Yoshiaki Shiraishi; Founded Conveyor Belt Sushi Industry|url=https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-2001-sep-02-me-41354-story.html|access-date=4 February 2016|work=Los Angeles Times|date=2001-09-02}}{{cite web|url=https://sushiwalker.com/feature/82425/|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240214201209/https://sushiwalker.com/feature/82425/|script-title=ja:回転寿司の歴史は半世紀超！回転寿司チェーン、それぞれの特徴は？|language=ja|publisher=Sushi walker|date=26 February 2023|archive-date=14 February 2024|access-date=14 February 2024}}{{cite web|url=http://www.mawaru-genrokuzusi.co.jp/history/|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20231201030735/http://www.mawaru-genrokuzusi.co.jp/history/|script-title=ja:回転寿司の歴史|language=ja|publisher=Genroku Zushi|archive-date=1 December 2023|access-date=14 February 2024}}

When Genroku Sushi opened a restaurant at the Japan World Exposition, Osaka, 1970, it won an award at the expo, and conveyor belt sushi restaurants became known throughout Japan. In 1973, an automatic tea dispenser was developed, which is now used in conveyor belt sushi restaurants today. When the patent for conveyor belt sushi restaurants expired, a chain of conveyor belt sushi restaurants was established, spreading conveyor belt sushi throughout Japan and further popularizing and lowering the price of sushi. By 2021, the conveyor belt sushi market had grown to 700 billion yen and spread outside Japan.

Raw salmon flesh may contain marine parasites, such as Anisakis nematodes, that cause anisakiasis. Before the availability of refrigeration, Japan did not consume raw salmon because of this health risk. Salmon and salmon roe have only recently come into use in making sashimi and sushi in the late 1980s. The introduction was from parasite-free Norwegian salmon belonging from Norwegian fishing companies who had an oversupply of farmed fish and were looking for a country to sell it off to. A deal resulted with Japanese company Nichirei for 5000 tons of salmon which started salmon sushi consumption in Japan.{{cite web | title=How The Desperate Norwegian Salmon Industry Created A Sushi Staple | website=NPR | date=2015-09-18 | url=https://www.npr.org/2015/09/18/441530790/how-the-desperate-norwegian-salmon-industry-created-a-sushi-staple | access-date=2023-02-27}}

{{main|Funazushi}}

File:Funazushi 鮒寿司 Maibara City Shiga Japan 2022-10-06.jpg

{{Transliteration|ja|Funazushi}} is a rare type of {{Transliteration|ja|narezushi}} prepared near Lake Biwa, Shiga Prefecture.{{cite web |url=http://thekyotoproject.org/english/funazushi/ |title=The Kyoto Project: Funazushi |date=2 September 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150706163137/http://thekyotoproject.org/english/funazushi/ |archive-date=6 July 2015 |access-date=6 July 2015 |publisher=Kyoto University of Foreign Studies}} Eighteen generations of the Kitamura family have been preparing the dish at Kitashina since 1619.{{cite episode |title=Japan |credits=Atsushi Kitamura |series=Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern |network=Travel Channel |air-date=9 December 2008 |number=13 |season=2}}

Fresh {{Transliteration|ja|funa}} are scaled and gutted through their gills or throat keeping the body (and always the roe) of the fish intact.{{cite news |last1=Schiller |first1=Tom |title=Funazushi: The fermented predecessor of modern sushi |url=https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20210616-funazushi-the-fermented-predecessor-of-modern-sushi |access-date=8 November 2022 |publisher=BBC}} The fish are then packed with salt and aged for a year before being repacked annually in fermented rice for up to four years. The resulting fermented dish may be served sliced thin or used as an ingredient in other dishes.{{cite book |title=Lake Biwa: Interactions between Nature and People |author=Hiroya Kawanabe |author2=Machiko Nishino |author3=Masayoshi Maehata |publisher=Springer Science & Business Media |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=iyQps4i41JoC&pg=PA344 |date=2012 |page=344 |isbn=978-94-007-1783-1 |access-date=6 July 2015}}

Authentic {{Transliteration|ja|funazushi}} is made from a wild subspecies of goldfish called {{Transliteration|ja|nigorobuna}} (a wild type of Carassius auratus) endemic to the lake. It is technically misleading to say that "crucian carp" is used, as though any {{Transliteration|ja|funa}}-type carp in the genus may be substituted, especially since the true crucian carp is a distinct species altogether (C. carassius) and is not indigenous to Lake Biwa.{{citation |last=Hosking |first=Richard |editor-last=Walker |editor-first=Harlan |title=From Lake and Sea Goldfish and Mantis Shrimp Sushi |work=Fish, Food from the Waters: Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery |publisher=Oxford Symposium Press |year=1998 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=mPS0tH02IDUC&pg=PA161 |pages=160–161 |format=preview |isbn=978-0-907325-89-5}}, p.161

File:Futomaki zushi in 201902.jpg

After the invention of the sheet form of nori seaweed around 1750, {{Transliteration|ja|makizushi}} or {{Transliteration|ja|norimaki}}, rice and various ingredients rolled with nori appeared.{{cite book |title=海苔 |trans-title=Nori |first=Akira |last=Miyashita |publisher=Hosei University Press |isbn=4588211110 |year=2003 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=V_IwAQAAIAAJ}}{{cite book |title=浅草海苔盛衰記 |trans-title=Asakusa nori rise and fall |first=Minoru |last=Katada |publisher=Seizando-Shoten Publishing |year=1989 |isbn=442582251X |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Jjw0AQAAIAAJ}} The term {{Transliteration|ja|makizushi}} was first used in the book {{nihongo||料理山海郷|Ryōri Sankaikyō}}, published in 1749. However, this dish did not resemble the current-day {{Transliteration|ja|makizushi}}, but was instead seafood rolled with bamboo mat ({{Transliteration|ja|makisu}}).{{cite book |title=日本料理事物起源 |trans-title=Origin of Japanese cuisine |isbn=4000242407 |first=Kōzō |last=Kawakami |publisher=Iwanami Shoten |year=2006 |url=https://www.iwanami.co.jp/.BOOKS/02/7/0242400.html |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160126125054/https://www.iwanami.co.jp/.BOOKS/02/7/0242400.html |archive-date=26 January 2016 }}{{cite book |title=現代すし学 |trans-title= Sushiology |first=Tomohiko |last=Ōkawa |publisher=Asahiya Publishing |year=2008 |isbn=978-4751107270 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=2X8hPQAACAAJ}}{{cite book |title= Ryōri Sankaikyō (料理山海郷) |publisher=Enshudō (園趣堂) |year=1819 |url=http://www2.dhii.jp/nijl_opendata/NIJL0110/049-0093/31}} Reprint edition of 1749 Current-day {{Transliteration|ja|makizushi}} first appeared in the book {{nihongo||新撰献立部類集|Shinsen Kondate buruishū}}, published in 1776, which describes how {{Transliteration|ja|makizushi}} is made: "Place a sheet of {{Transliteration|ja|asakusa-nori}}, pufferfish or paper on the {{Transliteration|ja|makisu}} and spread the cooked rice then arrange fishes on it. Roll the {{Transliteration|ja|makisu}} tightly from one side".{{cite book |title= Shinsen Kondate buruishū (新撰献立部類集) |last=Nakagawa |first=Tōshirō |year=1776 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=OU1gkgAACAAJ}} In 1778, a food shop guide book {{nihongo||七十五日|Shichijyūgonichi|extra=1778}} listed a shop whose most famous dish was {{Transliteration|ja|"norimaki-zushi"}}. A later book {{nihongo||名飯部類|Meihan Burui|extra=1802}} describes the process of making {{Transliteration|ja|makizushi}}: "Spread {{Transliteration|ja|asakusa-nori}} on the board, place the sushi rice on it. Ingredients are sea bream, abalone, shiitake, {{Transliteration|ja|mitsuba}} and {{Transliteration|ja|shiso}}. Roll them firmly".{{cite book |title=Meihan Burui(名飯部類) |year=1802 |last=Sugino |first=Gonbei}}

The Oxford English Dictionary notes the earliest written mention of sushi in an 1893 book, Japanese Interiors, where it mentions that "Domestics served us with tea and sushi or rice sandwiches"."Sushi", Oxford English Dictionary, Second edition, 1989; online version December 2011. Retrieved 23 December 2011.Alice Mabel Bacon, "A Japanese interior", Houghton, Mifflin and Company, 1893, [https://books.google.com/books?&id=W9g1AAAAMAAJ&pg=PA180 p.. 180]) However, there is also mention of sushi in a Japanese-English dictionary from 1873,James Curtis Hepburn, Japanese-English and English-Japanese dictionary, Publisher: Randolph, 1873, 536 pages ([https://archive.org/details/japaneseenglish01hepbgoog/page/n278 p. 262]) and an 1879 article on Japanese cookery in the journal Notes and Queries.W.H. Patterson, "Japanese Cookery", Notes and queries, Publisher: Oxford University Press, 1879. ([https://books.google.com/books?id=2kcAAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA263 p. 263]) Additionally, the 1879 best-selling book A Tour Around the World by General Grant by James Dabney McCabe describes former president Ulysses S. Grant dining on the "shashimi" [sic] version of sushi during his visit to Japan.{{cite web|url=http://eccentricculinary.com/the-great-sushi-craze-of-1905-part-1/|title=The Great Sushi Craze of 1905 The Unexpected History of Japanese Food in America, From Edo Bay to the Bowery|last=Miller|first=Howard D. |date=23 July 2015|work=An Eccentric Culinary History|publisher=eccentricculinary.com|access-date=18 August 2015}}

File:Camp Zama Girls Scout member eats sushi and rice.jpg

Sushi was already being served in the United States by the early 1900s, following an influx of Japanese immigration after the Meiji Restoration. The first sushi shop in the U.S. reportedly opened in 1906 in the Little Tokyo neighborhood of Los Angeles.{{cite book|last1=Wank |first1=David L. |last2=Farrer |first2=James |chapter=Chapter 5: Chinese Immigrants and Japanese Cuisine in the United States: a Case of Culinary Glocalization |title=The Globalization of Asian Cuisines |publisher=Springer |year=2015 |isbn=9781137514080 |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Fb6hCgAAQBAJ&pg=PT55}}, citing {{citation|last1=Ishige |first1=Naomichi |last2=Koyama |first2=Shuzou |last3=Yamaguchi |first3=Masatomo |last4=Ekuan |first4=Shouji |script-title=ja:ロスアンジェルスの日本料理店―その文化人類学的研究 (Rosuanjerusu no nihon ryōriten: sono bunka jinruigakuteki kenkyū) |language=ja|trans-title=Japanese restaurants in Los Angeles: an anthropological research |publisher=Domesu Shuppan |year=1985|pages=28–33}} H.D. Miller, food historian of Lipscomb University has written that a wave of Japanophilia in American high society resulted in the serving of sushi at social functions. Popularity of Japanese food peaked around 1905 when it was being served at Japanese-themed social gatherings across the United States, including in midwestern cities such as Minneapolis, Minnesota, St. Louis, Missouri and Bismarck, North Dakota. According to Miller, the earliest published mention of sushi eaten by an American, in America, was an 18 August 1904 article in the Los Angeles Herald about a luncheon served in Santa Monica by the socialite Fern Dell Higgins.

Several years later, a wave of anti-Japanese nativism sentiments and restrictions on Japanese immigration, starting with the Gentlemen's Agreement of 1907, caused a subsequent decline in the acceptance of Japanese cuisine. After the outbreak of World War II, Japanese-American restaurants on the West Coast were generally forced to close and sell off their businesses due to internment orders on their proprietors.{{sfnp|Smith|2012|p=[https://books.google.com/books?id=6oh3tI-owOYC&pg=PA89 89]}} One restaurant that reopened after the war to serve sushi was Matsuno Sushi (Matsu-no-sushi) in Little Tokyo, Los Angeles. This restaurant had been in business at least since 1938 or 1939,Interview of S. John Nitta in {{cite news|title=Downtown: The Old Meets the New |newspaper=Los Angeles Times |date=10 October 1971 |url=https://www.newspapers.com/newspage/164896816/}}Listed in the 1939 directory: {{citation|script-title=ja:新世界朝日年鑑 (Shin-Sekai Asahi Nenkan) |title=New World-sun Year Book |place=Los Angeles |publisher=New World Sun |year=1939|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=FwhLAQAAIAAJ&pg=PA435 |page=435}} (misprinted as p. 535) and by 1949, it was back serving sushi (featuring local bluefin tuna{{sfnp|Smith|2012|p=[https://books.google.com/books?id=6oh3tI-owOYC&pg=PA93 93]}}) for lunch. But the maki and inari they served was not shaped by hand by trained chefs, but molded in cookie-cutters.{{sfnp|Issenberg|2007|p=80}}

The Kawafuku restaurant in Little Tokyo has been credited with being the "first true sushi bar" in the United States,{{sfnp|Issenberg|2007|p=88}} that is to say, the first to serve sushi from a trained sushi chef in the country.{{sfnp|Corson|2008|pp=45–46}}{{cite journal|url=http://www.tokyojournal.com/sections/travel-food/item/252-the-man-who-brought-sushi-to-america |last=Al-Jamie |first=Anthony |title=The Man Who Brought Sushi to America |journal=Tokyo Journal |date=15 May 2013 |access-date=30 March 2017}} Some sources accept the claim made by a man named Noritoshi Kanai that he was the person instrumental in persuading Kawafuku's owner to start the sushi section. Kanai has also claimed to be the person who coined the term "sushi bar". Kanai headed the Tokyo-based arm of Mutual Trading, an importer of Japanese food ingredients that served Kawafuku and other restaurants.{{sfnp|Smith|2012|p=[https://books.google.com/books?id=6oh3tI-owOYC&pg=PA90 90]}} The first sushi chef in America according to this account was Shigeo Saito, and some sources paint the chef as the principal figure who brought real sushi to the U.S.{{sfnp|Issenberg|2007|p=88}}

Articles that gave positive views of tourism to Japan and Japanese cuisine began appearing in the media in the United States in the 1950s, paving the way to the public accepting different kinds of Japanese cuisine.House, p. 46.

Though the true origin is disputed, many believe the California roll was invented in Los Angeles by substituting a slice of avocado for the seasonal toro (fatty tuna) in a traditional maki roll.{{cite news |last=McInerney |first=Jay |author-link=Jay McInerney |title=Raw |url=http://events.nytimes.com/2007/06/10/books/review/McInerney-t.html |work=The New York Times |date=10 June 2007 |access-date=15 August 2008 |archive-date=14 September 2008 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080914124201/http://events.nytimes.com/2007/06/10/books/review/McInerney-t.html |url-status=dead }} (book review of {{harvnb|Corson|2007}} and {{harvnb|Issenberg|2007}})

A report of sushi being consumed in Britain occurred when the then Crown Prince Akihito (born 1933) visited Queen Elizabeth II at the time of her coronation in May 1953.30 May 1953 "[http://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/japanese-women-eating-sushi-whilst-they-wauit-to-catch-a-news-photo/3382820 Japanese women eating sushi whilst they wait to catch a glimpse of Prince Akihito, in England as a coronation guest of the Queen] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150924040706/http://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/japanese-women-eating-sushi-whilst-they-wauit-to-catch-a-news-photo/3382820 |date=24 September 2015 }}", photographer John Chillingworth, Picture Post at Getty Images"[https://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/chicagotribune/access/504627082.html?dids=504627082:504627082&FMT=ABS&FMTS=ABS:AI&type=historic&date=May+04%2C+1953&author=&pub=Chicago+Tribune&desc=PRINCE+AKIHITO+EATS+AND+RUNS+AT+OWN+SOIREE&pqatl=google Prince Akihito Eats and Runs at Own Soiree] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130319214122/http://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/chicagotribune/access/504627082.html?dids=504627082:504627082&FMT=ABS&FMTS=ABS:AI&type=historic&date=May+04%2C+1953&author=&pub=Chicago+Tribune&desc=PRINCE+AKIHITO+EATS+AND+RUNS+AT+OWN+SOIREE&pqatl=google |date=19 March 2013 }}", Chicago Daily Tribune, 4 May 1953, page 22

Although sushi was first served in Canada with the first arrivals of Japanese immigrants during the 19th century, it was not until changes to immigration rules in the 1960s that it started becoming widely available.{{cite web|url=https://www.foodbloggersofcanada.com/the-history-of-the-california-roll/|title=IT'S CANADIAN: THE HISTORY OF THE CALIFORNIA ROLL|author=Gabby Peyton|publisher=Food Bloggers of Canada}} Vancouver in particular went from 3 sushi outlets in 1976 to more than 600 in 2014, a larger number per capita than in Canada's largest city Toronto.{{cite news|url=https://vancouversun.com/news/staff-blogs/test-2|title=Vancouver may be sushi capital of North America|author=Douglas Todd|date=2014-05-04}} Although the true origin is disputed, it's widely believed that Chef Hidekazu invented the California roll (originally called "Tojo-maki") in Vancouver, by inverting the roll and putting rice on the outside to make it more accessible to Western tastes, and adding non-traditional ingredients like avocado.Madeleine White (23 October 2012). "Meet the man behind the California roll". The Globe and Mail. Retrieved 2015-07-06. The B.C. roll was also invented in Vancouver by Hidekazu in 1974 using barbecued salmon.

°=== Australia ===

Australia is a major source of rice used in sushi, in particular Leeton, New South Wales, which is the headquarters of SunRice.{{Cite web |url=http://www.kikkoman.co.jp/kiifc/foodculture/pdf_15/e_002_006.pdf |title=2007 Kikkoman Food Culture Seminar – The Internationalization of Sushi |access-date=23 January 2018 |archive-date=4 October 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20181004100159/http://www.kikkoman.co.jp/kiifc/foodculture/pdf_15/e_002_006.pdf |url-status=live }}{{cite web|url=http://www.abc.net.au/news/2014-04-22/sushi-rice-demand-2104/5402050|title=Sushi boom increases rice markets for Riverina growers|author=Laurissa Smith|publisher=ABC News|date=22 April 2014}}

Sushi is believed to have been introduced into Australia between the early 1970s{{cite news|url=https://www.japantimes.co.jp/news/2006/01/07/national/is-aussie-sushi-fishy-or-real-deal/#.Xey5wj3VKUk|title=Is Aussie sushi fishy or real deal?|author=Hilary Neal|date=2006-01-07|work=The Japan Times}} and the 1980s.{{cite web|url=http://www.sushimachine.com.au/News/the-history-of-sushi.html|title=The History of Sushi|publisher=Sushi Machine}} The first known sushi conveyor belt in Australia appeared in Queensland in 1993, when Sushi Train opened its first restaurant.{{Cite web |url=http://www.sushitrain.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=aboutus&Itemid=8 |title=Sushi Train – About us |access-date=23 January 2018 |archive-date=24 July 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180724093326/http://www.sushitrain.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=aboutus&Itemid=8 |url-status=live }}

A uniquely Australian style of sushi emerged in the late 1990s, when takeaway sushi stores opened in Melbourne and Sydney. These stores served uncut sushi rolls, now known as hand rolls, and used ingredients such as cooked chicken, canned tuna and beef. Distinctive rolls such as the salmon avocado and teriyaki chicken avocado can be found throughout Australia.

This style of roll is now becoming known worldwide, with the opening of the first Australian-style sushi store in New York in 2023, and the first in the UK in 2024.

When David Bowie played in Auckland in 1983 as part of the Serious Moonlight Tour, it was rumoured his contract rider stated that sushi be on the menu, which at the time was rare and exotic in New Zealand,{{cite web|url=https://publicaddress.net/system/cafe/hard-news-bowie/?p=354476#post354476|title=Hard News: Bowie|author=Russell Brown|author-link=Russell Brown (New Zealand)|date=2016-01-12|publisher=Public Address}} and typically served only in high-end city restaurants.{{cite web|url=https://thespinoff.co.nz/business/03-06-2018/blockchain-the-new-frontier-in-the-battle-against-slavery-for-sushi/|title=Blockchain: the new frontier in the battle against slavery for sushi|author=Livia Esterhazy|date=2018-06-03|publisher=The Spinoff}}

St Pierre's, a nationwide food franchise, officially began serving sushi in 1993,{{cite news|url=https://www.nzherald.co.nz/business/news/article.cfm?c_id=3&objectid=10542487|title=Chicken sushi conquered Kiwi tastebuds|author=Errol Kiong|date=2008-11-11|work=The New Zealand Herald}} after originally being established as a seafood delicatessen in Wellington in 1984.{{Cite web |url=https://stpierres.co.nz/our-story |title=St Pierres – About Us |access-date=8 December 2019 |archive-date=8 December 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191208094114/https://stpierres.co.nz/our-story |url-status=live }}

{{portal|Food|History}}

• Burong isda
• Pla ra
• Japanese cuisine
• Chinese cuisine
• Food history

;Citations

{{Reflist}}

;Bibliography

{{Refbegin}}

• {{cite book|last=Corson|first=Trevor|author-link=Trevor Corson|title=The Zen of Fish: The Story of Sushi, from Samurai to Supermarket|publisher=HarperCollins|year=2007|url=https://archive.org/details/zenoffishstoryof00cors|isbn=978-0060883508}}
• {{cite book|last=Corson|first=Trevor |title=The Story of Sushi: An Unlikely Saga of Raw Fish and Rice |publisher=Harper Perennial |year=2008|isbn=978-0060883515}}
• {{cite journal|last=House|first=Jonas|title=Sushi in the United States, 1945–1970|journal=Food and Foodways|year=2018 |volume=26|issue=1|pages=40–62|doi=10.1080/07409710.2017.1420353|s2cid=148999257 |doi-access=free}} - [http://eprints.whiterose.ac.uk/127301/1/Sushi%20in%20the%20United%20States%201945%201970.pdf Alternate URL] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180723090648/http://eprints.whiterose.ac.uk/127301/1/Sushi%20in%20the%20United%20States%201945%201970.pdf |date=23 July 2018 }} at the White Rose University Consortium
• {{cite book|last=Issenberg |first=Sasha |title=The Sushi Economy: Globalization and the Making of a Modern Delicacy |publisher=Penguin |year=2007 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Xm5H_tRsgWcC&pg=PA80 |isbn=9781592402946 }}
• {{cite book|last=Rath|first=Eric C. |title=Oishii: The History of Sushi |publisher=Reaktion Books |year=2021|isbn=9781789143836}}
• {{cite book|last=Smith |first=Andrew F. |year=2012 |title=American Tuna: The Rise and Fall of an Improbable Food |publisher=University of California Press |isbn=9780520954151 }} - See [https://books.google.com/books?id=6oh3tI-owOYC&pg=PA91 page 91]

{{Refend}}

• [http://homepage3.nifty.com/maryy/eng/sushi_history.htm History of Sushi]
• [https://web.archive.org/web/20041116120519/http://www.ne.jp/asahi/saru/mayoicom/sushiyougo.htm Sushi Dictionary] (寿司用語辞典; in Japanese)
• [https://web.archive.org/web/20050408024543/http://www.uotakesushi.co.jp/susinotisiki3.htm Sushi Q & A] (すしのQ&A; in Japanese)
• [https://www.historytoday.com/archive/historians-cookbook/short-history-sushi?mc_cid=ae28bfe40e&mc_eid=3765fee9b9 The History of Sushi.]

{{Sushi|state=expanded}}

{{Japanese food and drink}}

{{seafood}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:History of Sushi}}

Sushi