:Turducken

{{Short description|American poultry dish}}

File:turducken easter06.jpg

File:Turducken quartered cross-section.jpg

Turducken is a dish associated with Louisiana, consisting of a deboned chicken stuffed into a deboned duck, further stuffed into a deboned turkey. Outside North America it is known as a three-bird roast.{{Cite web |last=Stradley |first=Linda |last2=Brenda |date=2015-05-01 |title=Turducken History and Recipe |url=https://whatscookingamerica.net/poultry/turducken.htm |access-date=2024-02-03 |website=What's Cooking America |language=en-US}} Gooducken is an English variant,{{cite news|url=https://www.thetimes.com/travel/destinations/uk-travel/england/london-travel/three-in-one-bird-is-big-this-christmas-8569w2jppgg|title=Three in one bird is big this Christmas|first=Will|last=Iredale|date=21 November 2004|via=www.thetimes.co.uk}} replacing turkey with goose.

The term turducken is a portmanteau of turkey, duck, and chicken. The dish is a form of engastration, which is a recipe method in which one animal is stuffed inside the gastric passage of another—twofold in this instance.{{cite web |title=Engastration |url=http://webhome.idirect.com/~boof/tdk10.htm |access-date=2012-12-26}}

The thoracic cavity of the chicken/game hen and the rest of the gaps are stuffed, sometimes with a highly seasoned breadcrumb mixture or sausage meat, although some versions have a different stuffing for each bird. The result is a fairly solid layered poultry dish, suitable for cooking by braising, roasting, grilling, or barbecuing.[https://www.nytimes.com/2002/11/20/dining/turkey-finds-its-inner-duck-and-chicken.html "Turkey Finds Its Inner Duck (and Chicken)"], The New York Times, November 20, 2002. Accessed November 21, 2007

The turducken was popularized in America by John Madden, who promoted the dish during NFL Thanksgiving Day games and, later, Monday Night Football broadcasts.[https://ftw.usatoday.com/2017/11/nfl-thanksgiving-turducken-john-madden-origin-1997-20th-anniversary-gourmet-butcher-block-heberts-paul-prudhomme-inventor "The Story of John Madden's Legendary Turducken"], USA Today, November 29, 2017. Accessed November 4, 2019 On one occasion, the commentator sawed through a turducken with his bare hand, live in the booth, to demonstrate the turducken's contents.[https://nypost.com/2002/11/28/peta-gives-madden-the-bird/ "PETA Gives Madden the Bird"], New York Post, November 28, 2002. Accessed November 29, 2019{{Cite web|title=John Madden - Turducken 2002 Monday Night Football Eagles vs. 49ers| website=YouTube |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlDKILxEyb0}} Madden ate his first on-air turducken on December 1, 1996, during a game between the New Orleans Saints and St. Louis Rams at the Louisiana Superdome.{{cite web |title=St. Louis Rams at New Orleans Saints - December 1st, 1996 |url=https://www.pro-football-reference.com/boxscores/199612010nor.htm |website=Pro-Football-Reference.com |access-date=20 November 2022 |language=en}}

Origin

Credit for the creation of the turducken is uncertain; other matryoshka-like stuffed dishes have existed for centuries, in a variety of cultures. One early version is found in the 1913 Spanish cookbook La Cocina Española Antigua by Emilia Pardo Bazan. On page 208, recipe 320 describes a dish called guisado particular which is made by first stuffing an olive, then a small bird with the olive, then that stuffed bird is stuffed into another larger bird and so on sixteen times more, then cooked in an open flame for 24 hours.{{cite book |title=La Cocina Española Antigua, 1913| editor=Pardo Bazan, Emilia |page=208}}

As a named dish, it is generally agreed to have been introduced by Cajun chef Paul Prudhomme. The earliest print reference to the dish is a 1982 Newsweek article that describes it as a new Prudhomme dish.{{cite news |last1=Michener |first1=Charles |last2=Prout |first2=Linda R |title=Glorious Food: The New American Cooking |url=https://archive.org/details/sim_newsweek-us_newsweek_1982-11-29_100_22/mode/2up?q=%22Prudhomme+with+Thanksgiving+%27turducken%2C%27+Waters+with+Chez+Panisse%22 |access-date=29 November 2024 |work=Newsweek |publisher=Newsweek Media Group Inc |date=29 November 1982 |language=English}} A 1983 New York Daily News article called the turducken "an example of his inventiveness."{{cite news |last1=Brock |first1=Carol |title=Regional turkey trimmings |url=https://www.newspapers.com/article/daily-news/159937925/ |access-date=29 November 2024 |work=Daily News |date=16 November 1983 |pages=133}} In the 1960s, Prudhomme had worked as a chef at a series of resorts in Colorado and Wyoming. In 1984, Prudhomme told the Star Tribune that he had come up with the turducken in 1963 while preparing turkey for a Sunday brunch at one such resort. He said he had started selling turduckens in New Orleans around 1982, raising the price repeatedly to lower demand because of the day-long cooking process required.{{cite news |last1=Landberg |first1=Jim |title='Turducken' - One bird that satisfies aesthetics |url=https://www.newspapers.com/article/star-tribune-turducken-by-paul-prudhomme/38944646/ |access-date=29 November 2024 |work=Star Tribune |date=7 March 1984 |pages=63}} Prudhomme trademarked "Turducken" in 1986.{{cite news |last1=Friedland |first1=Josh |title=Turducken Has Been Weird for a Very Long Time |url=https://food52.com/blog/14637-the-brief-history-of-the-turducken-and-stuffing-food-in-food |access-date=29 November 2024 |work=Food52 |date=5 August 2021 |language=en-us}} In 2003, the food writer Jeffrey Steingarten investigated the dish's origin and concluded Prudhomme's was "the first, and therefore the authentic, recipe."{{cite book |last1=Steingarten |first1=Jeffrey |title=It must've been something I ate : the return of The man who ate everything |date=2003 |publisher=Vintage Books |location=New York |isbn=978-0-375-72712-2 |pages=226–236 |url=https://archive.org/details/itmustvebeensome0000stei/mode/2up?q=%22Paul+Prudhomme%22+%22turducken%22 |access-date=29 November 2024}}

Another claimant is Hebert's Specialty Meats in Maurice, Louisiana, whose owners Widley Hebert Jr. and Sammy Hebert say they created it in 1985 "when a local man brought his own birds to their shop and asked the brothers to create the medley".{{cite news |last1=Johnson |first1=Ruthie |title=Turducken Lovin' |url=https://www.houstonpress.com/restaurants/turducken-lovin-6402763 |access-date=29 November 2024 |work=Houston Press |date=November 18, 2009 |language=en}}{{cite news |title=Turducken Town |url=http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/0511/feature7/ |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080611055839/http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/0511/feature7/ |url-status=dead |archive-date=June 11, 2008 | location=Washington | work=National Geographic | first=Calvin | last=Trillin | date=November 2005 | access-date=May 3, 2010}} But Prudhomme's turducken had already been featured in media for several years before Hebert's opened in 1984.{{cite web |title=Hebert's Specialty Meats |url=https://hebertsmaurice.com/ |website=Hebert's Specialty Meats |access-date=29 November 2024}}

In the United Kingdom, a turducken is a type of ballotine called a "three-bird roast" or a "royal roast".{{citation needed|date=August 2016}} The Pure Meat Company offered a five-bird roast (a goose, a turkey, a chicken, a pheasant, and a pigeon, stuffed with sausage), described as a modern revival of the traditional Yorkshire Christmas pie, in 1989;{{cite book |title=Oxford Symposium on Food & Cookery, 1990: feasting and fasting : proceedings| editor=Walker, Harlan |page=35}}Williams, Anne. "Send a friend a meal on wheels", The Sunday Times (London), December 2, 1990. and a three-bird roast (a duck stuffed with chicken stuffed with a pigeon, with sage and apple stuffing) in 1990.

Gooducken is a goose stuffed with a duck, which is in turn stuffed with a chicken.{{cite news |title=TimesOnline.co.uk Three-in-one bird is big this Christmas |url=http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/news/uk/article393510.ece | location=London | work=The Times | first=Will | last=Iredale | date=November 21, 2004 | access-date=May 3, 2010}}{{dead link|date=September 2024|bot=medic}}{{cbignore|bot=medic}} TimesOnline.co.uk. Retrieved on June 2, 2008

Historical predecessors

In his 1807 Almanach des Gourmands, gastronomist Grimod de La Reynière presents his rôti sans pareil ("roast without equal")—a bustard stuffed with a turkey, a goose, a pheasant, a chicken, a duck, a guinea fowl, a teal, a woodcock, a partridge, a plover, a lapwing, a quail, a thrush, a lark, an ortolan bunting and a garden warbler—although he states that, since similar roasts were produced by ancient Romans, the rôti sans pareil was not entirely novel. The final bird is very small but large enough to just hold an olive; it also suggests that, unlike modern multi-bird roasts, there was no stuffing or other packing placed in between the birds.

An early form of the recipe was "Pandora's cushion", a goose stuffed with a chicken stuffed with a quail.{{cite web |title=Pandoras Cushion |url=http://nickbrowne.coraider.com/2005/05/pandoras-cushion.html |access-date=2012-12-26}}

Another version of the dish is credited to French diplomat and gourmand Charles Maurice de Talleyrand-Périgord. The 1891 newspaper article French Legends Of The Table offers Quail à la Talleyrand:{{cite news |url=http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article8623562 |title=French Legends Of The Table |newspaper=The Argus (Melbourne, Vic. : 1848–1957) |location=Melbourne, Vic. |date=5 November 1891 |page=6 |publisher=National Library of Australia|access-date=22 June 2013}}

{{blockquote|The following for instance, is Talleyrand's fanciful and somewhat roundabout way of roasting a quail. On a day of "inspiration gourmande" at his hotel in the Rue Saint-Florentin, Paris, he composed the following recipe: Take a plump quail, seasoned with truffles, and made tender by having been put into champagne. You put it carefully inside a young Bresse chicken; then sew up the opening, and put dabs of butter all over the chicken. Again, you put the chicken inside a fine Berri turkey, and roast the turkey very carefully before a bright fire. What will be the result? All the juice of the turkey is absorbed by the fowl, and all the juice of the fowl in its turn by the quail. After two hours roasting the fowl, which in reality is composed of three fowls, is ready, and you place the steaming trinity upon a dish of fine porcelain or chiseled silver. Then you pull the chicken out of the turkey, and the quail out of the chicken. The quail? Is it correct to talk of the quail, when this delicious, perfumed dish is indeed too good for any name? You take the quail as you would some sacred relic, and serve it hot, steaming, with its aroma of truffles, after having roasted it to a golden yellow by basting it diligently with the best Gournay butter.}}

In Hunan cuisine, the famed chef Liu Sanhe from Changsha invented a dish called sanceng taoji ({{lang-zh|三层套鸡}}), meaning "three-layer set chicken", consisting of a sparrow inside a pigeon inside a hen, along with medicinal herbs such as Gastrodia elata and wolfberries. He originally devised the dish to alleviate Lu Diping's ill concubine of headaches.{{cite web | url=http://covid-19.chinadaily.com.cn/dfpd/hun/2012-02/05/content_14539890.htm | title=传统湘菜:三层套鸡 - 中国在线 }}

The book Passion India: The Story of the Spanish Princess of KapurthulaMoro, Javier (2006). Passion India: The Story of the Spanish Princess of Kapurthala. Translated by Peter J. Hearn, First Circle Publishing, New Delhi, {{ISBN|8176211788}} (p. 295) features a section that recounts a similar dish in India in the late 1800s:

{{blockquote|Invited by Maharajah Ganga Singh to the most extraordinary of dinners, in the palace at Bikaner, when Anita asks her host for the recipe of such a succulent dish, he answers her seriously, "Prepare a whole camel, skinned and cleaned, put a goat inside it, and inside the goat a turkey and inside the turkey a chicken. Stuff the chicken with a grouse and inside that put a quail and finally inside that a sparrow. Then season it all well, place the camel in a hole in the ground and roast it.}}

See also

{{portal|Food}}

References

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