Alexander Ostroumov

File:Laboratory A. M. Ostroumov.jpg

File:Cream Metamorpfoza A. M. Ostroumov.jpg

File:Anti Dandruff Soap A. M. Ostroumov.jpg

File:Poster Institute of Medical Cosmetics A.M. Ostroumov - with translation.jpg

Ostroumov entered the business as an ordinary pharmaceutical chemist and referred to himself as such even at the peak of his career as the path to becoming a professional pharmacist was very difficult. Ostroumov worked as an apprentice for three years whilst completing a university degree in Moscow. Once he completed his degree he had to work in a pharmacy for three years before being admitted to a two-year degree at Moscow University, which, upon graduation, led to him becoming a full-fledged pharmaceutical chemist.{{cite news| last= Kozharinov | first= Veniamin | title= Empress's Bouquet, or Red Moscow | newspaper=The Moskows News | date=27 December 2004 | number= 49 / 2004}} After he creating the anti-dandruff soap in 1885, he invested in research and experimentation in order to create acne lotions, skin lightening products, and anti-aging creams. In 1900 the Perfume Factory Partnership of Pharmacist A. M. Ostroumov was established. Ostroumov, making use of advances in chemical and technological equipment, created the cream "Metamorphozis",{{Cite web|url=https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Cream_Metamorpfoza_A._M._Ostroumov.jpg|title=English: This is the label of Matamorphosis cream, produced by the pharmacist A.M. Ostroumov in Moscow - Russian Empire, at the beginning of the XX century. This photocopy is after an original label from the archive of my family Rascanu / Ostroumov.|first=Dan|last=Rascanu|date=March 15, 2022|via=Wikimedia Commons}} designed to get rid of freckles, age spots and protect against severe sunburn, which quickly became the favorite of Russian beauties and brought him fame.{{cite book | last = Ostroumov | first = Alexander | title =Nashi Artistki (Our Artists) | publisher = Typography Partnership A. I. Mamontov, Moscow|year=1912|page=4|url=https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Our_Artists_by_A._M._Ostroumov-first_4_pages.jpg}}

In 1909, Ostroumov established a laboratory on Tverskaya Street in Moscow, which grew into the Institute of Medical Cosmetics and him becoming the father of Russian cosmetology.{{cite news| last= Kozharinov | first= Veniamin | title=Empress's Bouquet, or Red Moscow| newspaper=The Moskows News | date=27 December 2004 | number= 49 / 2004}} In the Moscow Institute of Medical Cosmetics, Ostroumov worked on the prevention and treatment of skin and hair diseases where there were devices for electrolysis, electronic sinus vibration massage, steam, dry air and light baths and showers for sagging skin, rosacea removal, wrinkle, pimple, blackhead freckle treatment, sunburn and other disease treatments.{{Cite web|url=https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Poster_Institute_of_Medical_Cosmetics_A.M._Ostroumov_-_with_translation.jpg|title=English: Advertising Poster "Institute of Medical Cosmetics A. M. Ostroumov", Moskow, Russia, from about 1912, with translation from 2022. Photo collage based on an original photo from the family Rascanu - Kosmachev - Ostroumov archive.|first=Dan|last=Rascanu|date=March 31, 2022|via=Wikimedia Commons}} From 1910, the institute also got a unique plastic surgery department.{{cite book | last = Stochik | first = A. A | title = Bulletin of Semashko National Research Institute of Public Health, The first large-scale productions of parfumes and cosmetics in Russia and the establishment of The Institute of Medical Cosmetics by pharmacist A. M. Ostroumov, Part I | publisher = The National Research Institute of Public Health, Moskow | year = 2020 | pages = 76–79 | url = http://bulleten-nriph.ru/journal/article/view/1468}}

File:Our Artists by A. M. Ostroumov-first 4 pages.jpg

File:Our Artists by A. M. Ostroumov - pages of Elisaveta Azerskaia and Leonida Balanovskaia.jpg, with advertising photos and autographed notes of praise for Ostroumov products]]

File:Spring Flowers Soap A. M. Ostroumov.jpg

File:A.M.Ostroumov products - a small gift collection.jpg

File: Kongo - soap by A.M. Ostroumoff.jpg

In 1912, the Moscow Institute of Medical Cosmetics A. M. Ostroumov published an album of promotional photos with autographed notes entitled "Our Artists" ("Nashi artistki").{{cite book | last = Fishzon | first = Anna | title = Fandom, Authenticity and Opera| publisher = Palgrave Macmillan | year = 2013 | page = 57 | doi = 10.1057/9781137023452 | url = https://link.springer.com/book/10.1057/9781137023452. | isbn = 978-1137023452}} The album was printed in 1912 at the A. I. Mamontov Printing House in Moscow and the artists photographs were taken by Karl A. Fischer, the photographer of the Russian Imperial House.{{cite book | last = Ostroumov | first = Alexander | title =Nashi Artistki (Our Artists)| publisher = Typography Partnership A. I. Mamontov, Moscow| year = 1912 | pages =1–4| url = https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Our_Artists_by_A._M._Ostroumov-first_4_pages.jpg}}

The Ostroumov company employed local stars for their "artists" which fitted in with their narrative of transformative beauty to gain an advantage over their foreign competitors.{{cite book | last = Fishzon | first = Anna | title =Fandom, Authenticity and Opera | publisher = Palgrave Macmillan | year = 2013 | pages = 57–58 | doi = 10.1057/9781137023452 | url = https://link.springer.com/book/10.1057/9781137023452.|isbn = 978-1137023452}} Among the artists featured was Elisaveta Azerskaya from the Bolshoi Theatre (before the October Revolution it was a part of the Imperial Theatres), who welcomed Ostroumov's perfumery, calling it a serious rival of foreign perfumeries. Wearing an elegant dress, dramatic soprano Leonida Balanovskaya issued the following statement: Since I have become familiar with chemist Ostroumov's 'Cream No.2', I have understood the importance of choosing the right cosmetics. The amazing effect of this cream on the skin is incomparably superior to all other creams.{{Cite web|url=https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Our_Artists_by_A._M._Ostroumov_-_pages_of_Elisaveta_Azerskaia_and_Leonida_Balanovskaia.jpg|title=English: This are pages of the picture book "Our Artists" by the entrepreneur A. M. Ostroumov, from 1912 in Moskow. This pages are of the soloist Elisaveta Azerskaya and the mezzo-soprano Leonida Balanovskya, both of Moscow's Bolshoi Theatre. The stars provided praising comments about their favorite products of A.M. Ostroumov.|first=Dan|last=Rascanu|date=March 31, 2022|via=Wikimedia Commons}} Raisa Reisen, actress from the Imperial Maly Theater in Moskow, jokingly wrote: If Napoleon had used Ostroumov's 'Napoleon' eau de toilette, Josephine would have never cheated on him.{{cite book | last = Ostroumov | first = Alexander | title =Nashi Artistki (Our Artists) | publisher = Typography Partnership A. I. Mamontov, Moscow|year=1912|page=of Raisa Reisen}}

Some singers have been shown in character costumes reminiscent of the product names they are praising. Photographed as Cio-Cio-San from "Madame Butterfly" by Giacomo Puccini, the Zimin Opera soprano Vera Liutse opined: The unusually delicate and natural aroma of Ostroumov's 'Japanese Lilac'... reminds me of the native land of this flower, the land of the rising sun and flowers.{{Cite web|url=https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Our_Artists_-_A._M._Ostroumov_-_pages_of_Vera_Liutse.jpg|title=English: This are pages of the picture book "Our Artists" by the entrepreneur A. M. Ostroumov, from 1912 in Moskow. Vera Liutse, soprano of Moscow's Zimin Opera, made on her page praising reviews of her favorite products of A. M. Ostroumov. This photocopy is based on an original from the archive of my family Rascanu - Kosmachev - Ostroumov.|first=Dan|last=Rascanu|date=March 31, 2022|via=Wikimedia Commons}} Based on Liutse's image and text, "Japanese Lilac" alludes to Puccini's popular opera and heroine with the image of Liutse in the kimono of the foreign Cio-Cio-San providing a sense of the exotic. Other Ostroumov products shared the names of opera characters and were more directly associated with celebrities and their distinctive roles. Star Bolshoi soprano Antonina Nezhdanova, who appears as the heroine of the same name in Léo Delibes's opera "Lakmé", explained that she likes the perfumes of the Ostroumov company very much, especially the soap, cologne and powder 'Lakme'.

Ostroumov kept the recipes secret by splitting them into three parts with references to each other with each part kept in a different place. It was necessary to have all three parts in order to understand the full recipe and to be able to manufacture the product.

File:A.M. Ostroumov house in Yalta.jpg

File:The A. M. Ostroumov daughters.jpg

The quality of the manufactured products was core to their appeal and helped A. M. Ostroumov to continue to grow which required new warehouses in Saint Petersburg, Odessa, Yalta, Tashkent and Warsaw as the partnership's products became widely sold and A. M. Ostroumov become purveyor to the court of the Russian imperial family which gave them the right to put the state seal on its products.{{cite book | last = Ostroumov | first = Alexander | title =Nashi Artistki (Our Artists)| publisher = Typography Partnership A. I. Mamontov, Moscow| year = 1912 |page =2| url = https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Our_Artists_by_A._M._Ostroumov-first_4_pages.jpg}}{{Cite web|url=https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Anti_Dandruff_Soap_A._M._Ostroumov.jpg|title=English: This is an advertising poster for an anti-dandruff soap produced by A.M. Ostroumov in Moscow – Russian Empire, at the beginning of the XX century. At the top of the image is the coat of arms of the Russian Empire and it says that the company A.M. Ostroumov was purveyor to the court of His Imperial Majesty. This photocopy is after an original photo from the archive of my family Rascanu / Ostroumov.|first=Dan|last=Rascanu|date=March 30, 2022|via=Wikimedia Commons}} Around 1912 his perfume factory was the largest Russian-owned perfume factory in Imperial Russia with a large variety of products from anti-dandruff soap and medical cosmetics to creams and perfumes. In the factory price list there are hundred names of eaux de toilette, including "Napoleon", "Chypre", "Lily of the Valley", "Jasmine", "Ideal", "Japanese Lilac", "Empress's Bouquet", "Artist's Cologne" or perfumes like "Fresh Hey", "Vera-Violet" and "Oridis".{{cite book | last = Ostroumov | first = Alexander | title =Nashi Artistki (Our Artists)| publisher = Typography Partnership A. I. Mamontov, Moscow| year = 1912 |page =4 and on the artists' pages| url = https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Our_Artists_by_A._M._Ostroumov-first_4_pages.jpg}}

After the Russian February Revolution, on {{OldStyleDateNY|2 March 1917|15 March}} the Russian Emperor Nicholas II abdicated and on {{OldStyleDateNY|1 September 1917|14 September}} the Russian Provisional Government, headed by the Social-Revolutionary Prime Minister Alexander Kerensky, proclaimed the Russian Republic. The business of the Ostroumov company was still going well but on {{OldStyleDateNY|25 October 1917|7 November}} the Bolsheviks seized power in Saint Petersburg.{{cite book | last = Piepes | first = Richard E. | title =The Russian Revolution - Lenin and the Bolshewiks - The Bolshevik coup| publisher = Britanica|url = https://www.britannica.com/place/Soviet-Union/Lenin-and-the-Bolsheviks}}{{cite book | last = Koenen | first = Gerd | title =The Color Red - Origins and History of Communism|publisher = Beck, Munich| year = 2017 | page = 753|isbn = 978-3406714269}}

Ostroumov's factory, like all Russian industries, was nationalized by decree on {{OldStyleDateNY|28 June 1918|11 July}}.{{Cite web|url=https://alphahistory.com/russianrevolution/bolshevik-decree-nationalising-industry-1918/|title=Bolshevik decree nationalising industry (1918)|date=July 26, 2019}} In the summer of 1918, the entire Ostroumov family fled from the Civil War and the Bolsheviks to their own home in Yalta. In 1920, when the front of the Civil War reached Crimea, Ostroumov fled to Constantinople with his youngest daughter Olga and her husband Nikolai Baron von Stempel where he died of a heart attach shortly afterwards. His body was returned to Crimea and buried in Yalta.Olga A. Baronin von Stempel (youngest daughter of A.M. Ostroumov): Memoirs, unpublished manuscript, kept in family archive Rascanu - Ostroumov After nationalization, after the establishment of the Soviet Union, the company continued to function for several decades under the new name "Dawn". The production of "Metamorphosis" cream lasted until the 1960s., when the company closed.{{cite book | last = Stochik | first = A. A | title = Bulletin of Semashko National Research Institute of Public Health, The first large-scale productions of parfumes and cosmetics in Russia and the establishment of The Institute of Medical Cosmetics by pharmacist A. M. Ostroumov, Part I | publisher = The National Research Institute of Public Health, Moskow | year = 2020 | page = 79 | url = http://bulleten-nriph.ru/journal/article/view/1468}}

{{reflist}}

• {{Cite book |last=Kozharinov |first=Veniamin |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/39077170 |title=Russkai︠a︡ parfi︠u︡merii︠a︡ : XIX-nachalo XX veka = Russian perfumery : 19th and early 20th century |date=1998 |publisher=Sov. sport |isbn=5-85009-465-2 |location=Moskva |oclc=39077170}}
• {{Cite book |last=Fishzon |first=Anna |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/859336143 |title=Fandom, authenticity, and opera : mad acts and letter scenes in fin-de-siècle Russia |date=2012 |isbn=978-1-137-02345-2 |location=Basingstoke |oclc=859336143}}
• Ostroumov, Alexander, Our Artists (Nashi Artistki), Moscow: Typography Partnership A. I. Mamontov, 1912
• Olga A. Baronin von Stempel (youngest daughter of A. M. Ostroumov): Memoirs, unpublished manuscript kept in family archive Rascanu - Ostroumov, Mühlheim / Main, Germany
• {{Cite book |last=Kolonit︠s︡kiĭ |first=B. I. |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1156422683 |title=Comrade Kerensky : the revolution against the monarchy and the formation of the cult of 'the leader of the people' (March-June 1917) |date=2021 |others=A. L. Tait |isbn=978-1-5095-3364-0 |location=Cambridge |oclc=1156422683}}
• {{cite book|last=Bullock|first=David|title=The Russian Civil War 1918–22|publisher=Osprey Publishing|year=2008|isbn=978-1-84603-271-4|location=Oxford|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Mk61CwAAQBAJ|access-date=26 December 2017|archive-date=28 July 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200728140213/https://books.google.com/books?id=Mk61CwAAQBAJ|url-status=live}}
• {{Cite book|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=vREGB60UPWMC|title=Civil War in South Russia, 1919–1920: The Defeat of the Whites|last=Kenez|first=Peter|publisher=University of California Press|year=1977|isbn=978-0520033467|location=Berkeley|author-link=Peter Kenez}}
• {{Cite book |last=Koenen |first=Gerd |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/982380546 |title=Die Farbe Rot Ursprünge und Geschichte des Kommunismus |date=2017 |others=C.H. Beck Verlag |isbn=978-3-406-71426-9 |location=München |oclc=982380546}}

{{authority control}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Ostroumov, Alexander}}

Category:1859 births

Category:1920 deaths

Category:Chemists from the Russian Empire

Category:History of cosmetics

Category:19th-century chemists

Category:Scientists from Moscow

Category:Perfumers

Category:Immigrants to the Ottoman Empire