Bhanu Athaiya
{{Short description|Indian costume designer and painter (1929–2020)}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=October 2020}}
{{Use Indian English|date=November 2018}}
{{Infobox person
| name = Bhanu Athaiya
| image = Bhanu Athaiya (nee Rajopadhye).jpg
| imagesize =
| caption = Athaiya at the Academy Awards, 1983
| birthname = Bhanumati Annasaheb Rajopadhye
| birth_date = {{Birth date|df=yes|1929|04|28}}
| birth_place = Kolhapur, Kolhapur State, British India
| death_date = {{death date and age|df=yes|2020|10|15|1929|4|28}}
| death_place = Mumbai, Maharashtra, India
| education = Sir Jamsetjee Jeejebhoy School of Art
| yearsactive = 1947–2015
| occupation = Costume designer and Painter
| movement = Bombay Progressive Artists' Group
| spouse = Satyendra Athaiya
| awards = {{ulist|Usha Deshmukh Gold Medal - JJ School of Art (1951) for [https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Bhanu_Athaiya_-_Lady_in_Repose_(1951).tif Lady In Repose]
|Academy Award for Costume Design (1983) for Gandhi
|Nominated for BAFTA Award for Best Costume Design (1983) for Gandhi
|National Film Award for Best Costume Design (1991) for
1991: Lekin...|National Film Award for Best Costume Design (2002) for Lagaan}}
}}
Bhanu Athaiya (née Rajopadhye; 28 April 1929{{spnd}}15 October 2020) was an Indian costume designer and painter.{{Cite news |date=2020-10-15 |title=Bhanu Athaiya: Costume designer who won India's first Oscar dies |language=en-GB |work=BBC News |url=https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-india-54560058 |access-date=2023-01-14}} She was the first Indian to win an Academy Award.{{Cite news |last=Gates |first=Anita |date=2021-04-22 |title=Overlooked No More: Bhanu Athaiya, Who Won India Its First Oscar |language=en-US |work=The New York Times |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2021/04/22/obituaries/bhanu-athaiya-overlooked.html |access-date=2023-01-14 |issn=0362-4331}}{{Cite web |last=Ramachandran |first=Naman |date=2020-10-15 |title=Bhanu Athaiya, India's First Oscar Winner for 'Gandhi,' Dies at 91 |url=https://variety.com/2020/film/news/bhanu-athaiya-india-oscar-winner-gandhi-dead-1234806093/ |access-date=2023-01-14 |website=Variety |language=en-US}} Alongside being Bollywood's most iconic costume designer, she had a historically important early career as an artist with contemporaries like M. F. Husain, F. N. Souza and Vasudeo S. Gaitonde.[https://www.academia.edu/44563664/Bhanu_Rajopadhye_Athaiya_The_Legacy_of_a_Long_hidden_Sun_Ranjit_Hoskote Ranjit Hoskote, Bhanu Rajopadhye Athaiya:The Legacy of a Long-hidden Sun, Academia, December 2020] She was the only woman member of the Bombay Progressive Artists' Group.[https://scroll.in/magazine/886646/before-bhanu-athaiya-the-oscar-winning-designer-there-was-bhanu-athaiya-the-modernist-painter Before Bhanu Athaiya, the Oscar-winning designer, there was Bhanu Athaiya, the modernist painter. Scroll. Jul 31, 2018] Two of Bhanu Rajopadhye's artworks were included in the 1953 Progressive Artists' Group show in Bombay.[https://static.prinseps.com/media/uploads/1950s-progressive-artists-group-bhanu-athaiya.pdf 1953 Progressive Artists' Group Exhibition Catalogue]
After her switch from art to cinema, Bhanu went on to become one of the leading creators of the aesthetic of a young India through her work on costumes for Bollywood films. She worked on over 100 films, with Indian filmmakers such as Guru Dutt, Yash Chopra, B.R. Chopra, Raj Kapoor, Vijay Anand, Raj Khosla, and Ashutosh Gowariker, notably in films like C.I.D. (1956), Pyaasa (1957), Sahib Bibi Aur Ghulam (1962), Guide (1965), Amrapali (1966), Teesri Manzil (1966), Satyam Shivam Sundaram (1979), Razia Sultan (1983), Chandni (1989), Lekin... (1990), 1942: A Love Story (1993), Lagaan (2001),{{Cite web |last=Thomas |first=Kevin |date=2002-05-10 |title=Cricket in the Face of Colonialism |url=https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-2002-may-10-et-thomas10-story.html |access-date=2023-01-14 |website=Los Angeles Times |language=en-US}} and Swades (2004). She also worked on international projects with directors such Conrad Rooks in Siddhartha (1972) and Richard Attenborough in Gandhi (1982).
For Gandhi, Bhanu won the Academy Award for Best Costume Design{{Cite news |last=Harmetz |first=Aljean |date=1983-04-12 |title='GANDHI' IS WINNER OF EIGHT ACADEMY AWARDS |language=en-US |work=The New York Times |url=https://www.nytimes.com/1983/04/12/movies/gandhi-is-winner-of-eight-academy-awards.html |access-date=2023-01-14 |issn=0362-4331}} and was nominated for a BAFTA Award for Best Costume Design.{{Cite web |title=BAFTA Awards |url=https://awards.bafta.org/award/1983/film/costume-design |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230114154135/https://awards.bafta.org/award/1983/film/costume-design |archive-date=Jan 14, 2023 |access-date=2023-01-14 |website=awards.bafta.org}}
She was honored in the 'In memmoriam' segment of the 93rd Academy Awards.{{cite news |last=Gittins |first=William |date=April 24, 2021 |title=In Memoriam Oscars 2021: directors, actors and writers who died in 2020 |url=https://en.as.com/en/2021/04/25/latest_news/1619317219_989708.html |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210425142051/https://en.as.com/en/2021/04/25/latest_news/1619317219_989708.html |archive-date=April 25, 2021 |access-date=April 27, 2021 |work=Diario AS}}
Early life and background
Bhanu was born into a Marathi Brahmin family{{Cite web|title=Kolhapur residents mourn daughter who put town on world map By Nikhil Deshmukh|url=https://www.theweek.in/wire-updates/national/2020/10/15/bom38-mh-bhanu-athaiya-memories.html|access-date=2022-01-10|website=The Week|language=en}} in Kolhapur (in present-day Maharashtra). She was the third of seven children born to Annasaheb and Shantabai Rajopadhye. Athaiya's father, Annasaheb was a self-taught artist and photographer who worked in the films of Baburao Painter. He died when Athaiya was 11 years old.{{cite news |first=Smita|last=Lala|url=http://www.telegraphindia.com/1080507/jsp/telekids/story_9233599.jsp|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110525221923/http://www.telegraphindia.com/1080507/jsp/telekids/story_9233599.jsp|url-status=dead|archive-date=25 May 2011|title=My Fundays: Bhanu Athaiya|date=7 May 2008|access-date= 3 May 2013|work=The Telegraph}}{{cite web|url =https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-india-54560058|title= Bhanu Athaiya: Costume designer who won India's first Oscar dies|website=BBC News|date=15 October 2020}}
She studied at Sir J J School of Art, Mumbai, where she won the Usha Deshmukh Gold medal in 1951 for the artwork titled 'Lady In Repose'.{{cite web|url = https://www.architecturaldigest.in/content/prinsepss-bhanu-athaiya-estate-sale-sets-give-ace-designer-due-artist/|title= Prinseps's 'Bhanu Athaiya Estate Sale' sets out to give the late designer her due as an artist|website= Architectural Digest|date=1 December 2020 }}{{cite web|url =https://prinseps.com/auctions/lots/lady-in-repose-bhanu-rajopadhye-athaiya-28-16/|title= Bhanu Athaiya's Lady In Repose|website=Prinseps|date=December 2020}}{{cite web|url =https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCLhyoLWHQ4|title= Discussion With Bhanu Athaiya's Daughter|website= YouTube|date=June 2022}} File:Bhanu-athaiya-j-j-school-gold-medal-2.jpg File:Bhanu-athaiya-j-j-school-gold-medal-1.jpg
Career
Bhanu started her career as an artist in Mumbai while still studying at JJ School of Art. Later she became a member of the Progressive Artists' Group and exhibited with them.[https://static.prinseps.com/catalogue/Bhanu%20Athaiya%20December%202020%20Auction.pdf Bhanu Athaiya Estate Sale Catalogue December 2020] She continued her part-time stint as a freelance fashion illustrator for women's magazine like "Eve's Weekly" and "Fashion & Beauty". while at the JJ School of Art.[https://prinseps.com/auctions/lots/eves-weekly-spread-pages-bhanu-rajopadhye-athaiya-30-16/ Bhanu's Eve's Weekly Spread Pages, Bhanu Athaiya Estate Auction December 2020] Later when the Eve's Weekly editor opened a boutique, she asked Athaiya to try designing dresses, hereupon she discovered her flair for designing clothes. Her success as a designer soon led to her switching career paths. Her costume designing career began by designing clothes for Guru Dutt's films, starting with C.I.D. (1956). She soon became a part of the Guru Dutt team.Guru Dutt: A Life in Cinema, by Nasreen Munni Kabir. Published by Oxford University Press, 1996. {{ISBN|0-19-563849-2}}. pp 117-118.
She made her debut as a film costume designer with the film C.I.D. in 1956,{{cite news|first=Madhusree |last=Chatterjee |url=http://www.hindustantimes.com/News-Feed/archive/Bhanu-Athaiya-India-s-first-Oscar-winner-walks-down-memory-lane/Article1-381412.aspx |title=Bhanu Athaiya - India's first Oscar winner walks down memory lane |date=20 February 2009 |access-date=3 May 2013 |work=Hindustan Times |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131227010346/http://www.hindustantimes.com/News-Feed/archive/Bhanu-Athaiya-India-s-first-Oscar-winner-walks-down-memory-lane/Article1-381412.aspx |archive-date=27 December 2013 }} and followed it up with other Guru Dutt films such as Pyaasa (1957), Chaudhvin Ka Chand (1960) and Sahib Bibi Aur Ghulam (1962). In her career spanning 50 years she has received numerous awards. She won the Academy Award for Best Costume Design (shared with John Mollo) for her work in the 1982 film, Gandhi and became the first Indian to win an Academy Award.{{cite news|url=http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/india/From-dandy-to-Dandi-it-was-a-long-journey/articleshow/35344377.cms|title= From dandy to Dandi, it was a long journey |access-date= 3 May 2013|work=Hindustan Times|date= 25 March 2001 }} She also won two National Film Awards, in 1991 and 2002.
In a career spanning over 100 films, she worked with Indian filmmakers such as Guru Dutt, Yash Chopra, B.R. Chopra, Raj Kapoor, Vijay Anand, Raj Khosla, and Ashutosh Gowariker, and international directors such Conrad Rooks and Richard Attenborough.{{Cite web|first1=Oscar|last1=Holland|first2=Manveena|last2=Suri|first3=Mitra|last3=Esha|title=Bhanu Athaiya, India's first Oscar winner, dies age 91|url=https://www.cnn.com/style/article/bhanu-athaiya-death/index.html|access-date=17 October 2020|website=CNN|date=16 October 2020 |language=en|archive-date=17 October 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201017133029/https://www.cnn.com/style/article/bhanu-athaiya-death/index.html|url-status=live}}{{Cite web|last1=Ramachandran|first1=Naman|date=15 October 2020|title=Bhanu Athaiya, India's First Oscar Winner for 'Gandhi,' Dies at 91|url=https://variety.com/2020/film/news/bhanu-athaiya-india-oscar-winner-gandhi-dead-1234806093/|access-date=17 October 2020|website=Variety|language=en|archive-date=17 October 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201017133025/https://variety.com/2020/film/news/bhanu-athaiya-india-oscar-winner-gandhi-dead-1234806093/|url-status=live}}{{Cite web|title=Veteran costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, India's first Oscar winner, dies at 91|url=https://www.dnaindia.com/entertainment/report-veteran-costume-designer-bhanu-athaiya-india-s-first-oscar-winner-dies-at-91-2850050/amp|access-date=17 October 2020|website=www.dnaindia.com|archive-date=17 October 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201017133025/https://www.dnaindia.com/entertainment/report-veteran-costume-designer-bhanu-athaiya-india-s-first-oscar-winner-dies-at-91-2850050/amp|url-status=live}}
In March 2010, Athaiya released her book The Art of Costume Design, published by HarperCollins.{{cite web|url=http://www.harpercollins.co.in/BookDetail.asp?Book_Code=2514 |title=The Art of Costume Design, by Bhanu Rajopadhye Athaiya |access-date=3 May 2013 |publisher=HarperCollins Publishers India |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120304224854/http://www.harpercollins.co.in/BookDetail.asp?Book_Code=2514 |archive-date=4 March 2012 }} On 13 January 2013, Athaiya presented a copy of the book to the Dalai Lama.{{cite web|url=http://www.phayul.com/news/article.aspx?id=28919&t=1 |title=No one will fight China to make a stand for Tibet |access-date=3 May 2013 |publisher=Phayul.com |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130502031725/http://www.phayul.com/news/article.aspx?id=28919&t=1 |archive-date=2 May 2013 }}{{cite web |url=http://mobilepaper.timesofindia.com/mobile.aspx?article=yes&pageid=13§id=edid=&edlabel=TOIM&mydateHid=21-04-2010&pubname=Times+of+India+-+Mumbai&edname=&articleid=Ar01307&publabel=TOI |archive-url=https://archive.today/20130616000600/http://mobilepaper.timesofindia.com/mobile.aspx?article=yes&pageid=13§id=edid=&edlabel=TOIM&mydateHid=21-04-2010&pubname=Times+of+India+-+Mumbai&edname=&articleid=Ar01307&publabel=TOI |url-status=dead |archive-date=16 June 2013 |title=Athaiya meets Dalai Lama |access-date=3 May 2013 |work=The Times of India }}
On 23 February 2012, it was reported that Athaiya wished to return her Academy Award to the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences because she felt that her family will not be able to take care of the trophy after her demise.{{cite news|first=Lada|last=Singh|url=http://indiatoday.intoday.in/story/first-indian-to-win-an-oscar-bhanu-athaiya-wants-to-return-her-award/1/174950.html|title=First Indian to win an Oscar, Bhanu Athaiya wants to return her award|date=23 February 2012|access-date=3 May 2013|work=Hindustan Times|archive-date=17 October 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201017133036/https://www.indiatoday.in/movies/oscars-2012/story/first-indian-to-win-an-oscar-bhanu-athaiya-wants-to-return-her-award-94000-2012-02-23|url-status=live}} On 15 December 2012, it was confirmed that the trophy had been returned to The Academy.{{cite news |first=Avijit|last=Ghosh|url=http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2012-12-15/india/35836042_1_finest-motion-picture-museum-bhanu-athaiya-costume-designer|archive-url=https://archive.today/20130616000540/http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2012-12-15/india/35836042_1_finest-motion-picture-museum-bhanu-athaiya-costume-designer|url-status=dead|archive-date=16 June 2013|title= Bhanu Athaiya returns Oscar fearing theft|date=15 December 2012|access-date= 3 May 2013|work=The Times of India}}
In April 2021, as part of the New York Times "Overlooked" series of obituaries that were not written at the time of the person's death (in this case, October 2020), Anita Gates wrote an obituary of Athaiya. In it, Athaiya is quoted about her work on Gandhi: "Richard Attenborough was making a complex film and needed someone who knew India inside out," Athaiya told Eastern Eye, a British weekly newspaper, in an interview published last year. "So much had to be contributed, and I was ready for it."{{Cite news|last=Gates|first=Anita|date=2021-04-22|title=Overlooked No More: Bhanu Athaiya, Who Won India Its First Oscar|language=en-US|work=The New York Times|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2021/04/22/obituaries/bhanu-athaiya-overlooked.html|access-date=2021-04-22|issn=0362-4331}}
Personal life
Bhanu married a lyricist and poet, Satyendra Athaiya, in the 1950s. Subsequently in 1959, she changed her name from Bhanumati to Bhanu Athaiya. Satyendra died in 2004.
In 2012, Bhanu was diagnosed with a brain tumour, which eventually lead to her suffering paralysis on one side of the body and was bed-ridden for the last three years of her life. She died on October 15, 2020, in Mumbai at the age of 91, at a medical centre in South Mumbai. She was survived by her daughter Radhika Gupta.{{Cite web|date=15 October 2020|title=Oscar-winning costume designer Bhanu Athaiya passes away|url=https://indianexpress.com/article/entertainment/bollywood/costume-designer-bhanu-athaiya-passes-away-6740971/|access-date=15 October 2020|website=The Indian Express|language=en}}
Awards and nominations
Filmography
See also
References
{{reflist}}
External links
{{Commons category|Bhanu Athaiya}}
- {{IMDb name|0040390}}
- [https://web.archive.org/web/20110520040526/http://movies.nytimes.com/person/173640/Bhanu-Athaiya Filmography] at The New York Times
{{AcademyAwardBestCostumeDesign 1981–2000}}
{{FilmfareLifetimeAchievementAward}}
{{Authority control}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Athaiya, Bhanu}}
Category:20th-century Indian designers
Category:20th-century Indian women artists
Category:21st-century Indian designers
Category:21st-century Indian women artists
Category:Best Costume Design Academy Award winners
Category:Best Costume Design National Film Award winners
Category:Deaths from brain cancer in India
Category:Indian Academy Award winners
Category:Indian costume designers
Category:Indian women fashion designers
Category:Indian fashion designers
Category:Sir Jamsetjee Jeejebhoy School of Art alumni
Category:Women artists from Maharashtra