Mangfu

{{See also|Feiyufu#Feiyu_embroidery_design|label 1=Feiyu}}{{Multiple image

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| caption2 = Gao Gong wearing a danmang pattern design

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In ancient China, there is a clear difference between monarchs and subjects; therefore, the Emperor wears the {{Transliteration|zh|long}}, Chinese dragon patterns, on their clothing called {{Transliteration|zh|longpao}} ({{Lang-zh|c=|p=lóngpáo|l=dragon robe|s=龙袍|t=龍袍|labels=no}}) while the officials, being the subjects of the Emperor, wear the {{Transliteration|zh|mang}} ({{Lang-zh|c=蟒|p=mǎng|l=python|labels=no}}). The {{Transliteration|zh|mang}} embroidery is actually an imaginary creature in the form of a four-clawed Chinese dragon, which was derived from the design of the {{Transliteration|zh|long}}, the imperial 5-clawed Chinese dragon pattern.{{Rp|page=204|pages=}}

In the Ming dynasty, Bian Yong, the Chief Censor of the Emperor Hongzhi, described the {{Transliteration|zh|mang}} as having "no horns and legs"; however, during his time:

{{Quote|text=the mang robe worn by internal officials (eunuchs) is very similar to the image of the dragon", therefore not fitting the regulations}}

Shen Defu also described the {{Transliteration|zh|mang}} as being similar to the {{Transliteration|zh|long}} in appearance with the number of their claws as the main difference:

{{Quote|text=The mang robe is a garment with an image close to a dragon, similar to the dragon robe of the top authority (the emperor), except for the deduction of one claw.}}

After the Ming dynasty, it was expressed that a {{Transliteration|zh|long}} ({{Lit|Chinese dragon}}) would be demoted to a {{Transliteration|zh|mang}} ({{Lit|python}}) if it lost one of its claw.

Shen Defu also explained that the most valued form of {{Transliteration|zh|mang}} pattern was the {{Transliteration|zh|zuomang}} ({{Lang-zh|c=坐蟒|p=|l=seated python|labels=}}) which a frontal view {{Transliteration|zh|mang}} on the back and front region of the robe; there were other form of {{Transliteration|zh|mang}} pattern such as the {{Transliteration|zh|danmang}} ({{Lang-zh|c=單蟒|p=|l=}}), which faces on the right side.

File:Un descendant direct de confucius.jpg wearing a {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} with a danmang in a {{Transliteration|zh|buzi}}, Ming dynasty]]

In the Ming dynasty, the {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} was a form of {{Transliteration|zh|cifu}} along with {{Transliteration|zh|feiyufu}} and {{Transliteration|zh|douniufu}}; therefore, the right to bestow {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} was only reserved to the Emperor who would bestow the robes to those he favoured.{{Cite journal |last=Chen |first=BuYun |date=2019-01-01 |title=Wearing The Hat Of Loyalty: Imperial Power And Dress Reform In Ming Dynasty China |url=https://works.swarthmore.edu/fac-history/509 |journal=The Right to Dress: Sumptuary Laws in a Global Perspective, C.1200–1800 |pages=416–434 |doi=10.1017/9781108567541.017|isbn=9781108567541 |s2cid=165356490 }} According to the {{Transliteration|zh|Ming Shi}}《{{Linktext|明史}}》, the {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} was prescribed for certain officials on specific occasions.

When Emperor Yongle became emperor, he relaxed the clothing regulations for the eunuchs; therefore, the eunuchs around the emperor wore {{Transliteration|zh|Yesa}}-style robes which were decorated with {{Transliteration|zh|mang}} patterns and were tied with a {{Transliteration|zh|luandai}} ({{Lit|Luan belt}}), and even the eunuchs who were of high ranks were often found wearing {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}}. However, the wearing of {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} by the eunuchs were improper.{{Cite journal |last=Yuan |first=Zujie |date=2007 |title=Dressing for power: Rite, costume, and state authority in Ming Dynasty China |url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s11462-007-0012-x |journal=Frontiers of History in China |volume=2 |issue=2 |pages=181–212 |doi=10.1007/s11462-007-0012-x |s2cid=195069294 |issn=1673-3401}}

According to Shen Defu, during the early reign of Zhengtong, the {{Transliteration|zh|mangpao}} was bestowed to foreign rulers. In 1447, there was an imperial edict by Emperor Zhengtong which prohibited the production of {{Transliteration|zh|mang}} patterns along with {{Transliteration|zh|feiyu}} and {{Transliteration|zh|douniu}} patterns by unauthorized people; it was therefore a capital offence for artisans:

{{Quote|text=There are clothing regulations for both officials and commoners. Now some people have custom-made robes embroidered with the prohibited patterns of four-clawed dragon [i.e. mang], five-clawed dragon [i.e. long], flying fish [i.e. feiyu], and “Big Dipper bull” [i.e. douniu]. Put the artisans to death and send their families to frontier garrisons as soldiers. People who wear them are to be punished without pardon|author=Shen Dufu|title=Wanli yehuo bian [Unofficial Gleanings of the Wanli Era]|source=translated version from the 2019 article "Wearing The Hat Of Loyalty: Imperial Power And Dress Reform In Ming Dynasty China" by Chen Buyun, p. 422}}

According to the {{Transliteration|zh|Wanli yehuo bian}}《{{Linktext|萬厲野獲編}} – {{Lit|Miscellaneous notes of Wanli}}》by Shen Defu, during this period, eunuchs were parading in the streets of the capital wearing {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} and {{Transliteration|zh|douniufu}} while women (especially wives of the elite class) were wearing embroidered robes with designs, such as the {{Transliteration|zh|qilin}}, {{Transliteration|zh|feiyu}} and {{Transliteration|zh|zuomang}} ({{Lang-zh|c=坐蟒|p=|l=seated python|labels=no}}) in front of the senior officials. According to Shen Dufu, the sumptuary laws were being trespassed and the fault was that of the Emperor who was failing at regulating the possession robes adorned with imperial insignia.

During the 16th year of Emperor Hongzhi (1504), the customs of bestowing {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} to the Grand Secretariat began.

The Jiajing emperor also bestowed {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} to prominent Daoist patriarchs several times during his reign. According to the Ming shi, in 1530, it was decreed that the Head of the jinyiwei had to wear a red-coloured {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} or {{Transliteration|zh|feiyufu}} with a {{Transliteration|zh|wushamao}} ({{Lit|black gauze hat}}) and a phoenix belt on sacrificial and ceremonial occasions.

In 1538, still under the rule of Emperor Jiajing, gradations of {{Transliteration|zh|cifu}} also stipulated that only ministers from the first to third rank were allowed to wear {{Transliteration|zh|mangyi}}, which consisted of the {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}}, the {{Transliteration|zh|feiyu mangyi}}, and the{{Transliteration|zh| douniu mangyi}}. The {{Transliteration|zh|mang}} patterns on the clothing insignia were also gradated based on a particular rank; according to Shen Defu, the most valued form of {{Transliteration|zh|mang}} pattern was the {{Transliteration|zh|zuomang}}; other form of {{Transliteration|zh|mang}} pattern which existed in his period also included the {{Transliteration|zh|danmang}} ({{Lang-zh|c=單蟒|p=|l=|labels=no}}).

In 1578, Great Empress Dowager Li bestowed {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} to Zhang Juzhen on behalf of the Emperor.

During the reign under Emperor Wanli, many {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} were bestowed. According to Xie Zhaozhe in the {{Transliteration|zh|Wu Zazu}}《{{Linktext|五雜俎}} – {{Lit|Five assorted offerings}}》, more than 10,000 eunuchs were wearing {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} and jade belts in the Forbidden City. However, the {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} did not become a common form of clothing.

{{Main|Qizhuang|Dragon robe}}

{{See also|Terlig}}{{Multiple image

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| caption1 = Chaofu with horse hoof-shaped cuff

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| footer = Types of mangfu worn by court officials, Qing dynasty

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The {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} continued to be worn in the Qing dynasty as part of the Qing dynasty official uniform (either as part of the {{Transliteration|zh|jifu}} or as part of the {{Transliteration|zh|chaofu}}) and continued to be worn by only those who were awarded by the Emperor.{{Rp|page=|pages=18, 20}}

The structure of the Manchu {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} worn in the Qing dynasty differed from those worn in the Ming dynasty as the {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} worn in the Qing dynasty was modified based on the early male clothing of the Manchu, thus retaining the original features while making new changes to the robes; for example, the Manchu {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} had horse hoof-shaped cuff.{{Cite web |date=2015 |title=Robe with Python Design, Manchu |url=https://www.shanghaimuseum.net/mu/frontend/pg/article/id/CI00004119 |access-date=2022-03-17 |website=www.shanghaimuseum.net}}

File:Portrait of Yintang.jpg|Portrait of Yintang (1683–1726)

File:Portrait of a Qing Courtier in a Winter Costume (possibly DoDo).jpg|Qing courtier

File:Portrait of Oboi.jpg|Portrait of Oboi.

File:皇清誥封六十五代襲封衍聖公懋甲公像.jpg|65th generation of Duke Yangsheng

{{See also|Traditional Chinese wedding dress}}

File:六十九代衍聖公 元配王夫人衣冠像.jpg|Wife of the 69th generation of Duke Yansheng, wearing mang ao and skirt

There are also strict regulations on the robes' colour and the numbers of {{Transliteration|zh|mang}} that were allowed to decorate the {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}}:{{Rp|page=18}}

• Liu Jian (劉健) (1433–1526), Grand Secretary from 1492 to 1513, was bestowed with a red {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}}.
• Li Dongyang (1447–1516), Grand Secretary from 1494 to 1513, was bestowed with a red {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}}.
• Xie Qian (1450–1531), Grand Secretary from 1495 to 1506 and from 1527 to 1528, was bestowed with a red {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}}.
• Shao Yuanjie (1450–1531), a Daoist patriarch, was bestowed a {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} with a jade belt by Emperor Jiajing in 1536.
• Zhang Juzhen (1525–1582), a Ming dynasty imperial tutor and senior grand secretary; the {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} were also bestowed to Zhang Juzhen's parents as a symbol of extreme favour.

{{Main|Chinese opera costume}}

File:Man's Red Python Ceremonial Robe embroidered with Dragon Motifs - Cantonese Opera costume - Cantonese Opera costume - Hong Kong International Airport - DSC06273.JPG}} in Cantonese opera]]

The {{Transliteration|zh|xifu}}, Chinese opera costumes, were made based on the clothing style of the Ming dynasty while also absorbing clothing features of the Song, Yuan, and Qing dynasties. On stage, the theatrical {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} is typically in the appearance of a {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}}.{{Rp|page=300}}

In Chinese opera, the theatrical {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} is the highest of formal, ceremonial robe worn by performers in the roles of emperors, princes, officials (ministers for specific occasions, such as court audience), and generals.{{Cite book |last=Lei |first=Daphne Pi-Wei |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/960815831 |title=Operatic China : staging Chinese identity across the Pacific |date=2006 |isbn=978-1-137-06163-8 |location=[New York] |oclc=960815831}}{{Rp|page=300}}

The theatrical {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} has a male and female version; the {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} patterns on the robes vary and can be found in: {{Transliteration|zh|mang}} medallions, front-viewed {{Transliteration|zh|mang}} and flying dragon.

When decorated with flying dragon patterns, the robe is typically also decorated with patterns of waves and mountain peaks. There is also strict regulations on the colours used in the theatrical {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}}; the colours are divided into "upper five colours" and "lower five colours", {{Transliteration|zh|minghuang}} (bright yellow) colour is exclusively reserved for imperial usage. Other colours included: red.

In Beijing opera, the {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} {{Transliteration|zh|xifu}} is known as {{Transliteration|zh|Mang}}. The {{Transliteration|zh|Mang}} is used to represent the emperor have a dragon with an open mouth, while the dragon used on the {{Transliteration|zh|Mang}} of the ministers and generals have their mouth closed. The dragons looked bold and mighty when used on the {{Transliteration|zh|Mang}} of martial officials but gentle and quiet when used in the {{Transliteration|zh|Mang}} of civil officials. There is also other kind of {{Transliteration|zh|Mang}} which are specially made for female actresses, laodan, and palace eunuchs.

The colours used in the {{Transliteration|zh|Mang}} also have clear symbolism: red means majestic and noble; green means mighty and bold; white represents handsome young people; black is used to represent people who are upright and unconstrained.

• {{Transliteration|zh|Jianmang}} ({{Lit|Arrow python robe}}) – A {{Transliteration|zh|mangfu}} in the style of a {{Transliteration|zh|yuanlingpao}} for the role of Emperor Zhu Di of Ming invented by Ma Lianliang; it is the combination of an arrow robe and a python robe.{{Cite book |last=Ye |first=Tan |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1128888776 |title=Historical dictionary of Chinese theater |date=2020 |isbn=978-1-5381-2064-4 |edition=Second |location=Lanham |oclc=1128888776}}{{Rp|page=14}}

• Chinese opera
• Jin Ping Mei

• Jisün
• Terlig
• Yesa
• Feiyufu
• Douniufu
• Dragon robe

• Chinese ornamental gold silk
• Hanfu
• List of hanfu

{{reflist}}{{Types of Han Chinese clothing}}

Category:Hanfu

Category:Chinese traditional clothing

Category:Court uniforms and dress