Futaba Ito
{{short description|Japanese climber}}
{{Infobox climber
| image = ITO Futaba JPN 5496 cropped.jpg
| image_size =
| caption = Futaba Ito at the 2018 Climbing World Cup
| name = Futaba Ito
| nationality = {{flag|Japan}}
| birth_date = {{Birth date and age|df=y|2002|04|25}}{{cite web|url=https://www.jma-climbing.org/athlete/profile/futaba-ito/|title=Itō Futaba - Kōeki Shadan Hōjin Nippon Sangaku Supōtsu Kuraimingu Kyōkai|language=Japanese|trans-title=Futaba Ito - Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association|publisher=Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association|access-date=3 June 2019}}
| birth_place = Morioka, Iwate Prefecture, Japan{{cite web|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190705173949/http://futaba-ito.com/ | url=http://futaba-ito.com/ | archive-date=Jul 5, 2019 | title=Futaba Ito personal website}}
| death_date =
| death_place =
| residence =
| education =
| website = http://futaba-ito.com/
| occupation = Professional sport climber
| height = 162 cm
| weight = {{convert|46|kg|lb}}
| typeofclimber = Bouldering, Lead climbing
| medaltemplates =
{{Medal|Competition|Asian Championships}}
{{Medal|Gold| 2018 Kurayoshi | Bouldering}}
{{Medal|Gold| 2022 Seoul | Bouldering}}
{{Medal|Bronze| 2018 Kurayoshi | Combined}}
{{Medal|Bronze| 2022 Seoul | B&L}}
{{Medal|Bronze|2024 Tai'an|Bouldering}}
{{Medal|Competition|World Youth Championships}}
{{Medal|Gold|2017 Innsbruck (Youth B) | Lead}}
{{Medal|Silver|2016 Guangzhou (Youth B) | Bouldering}}
{{Medal|Silver|2018 Moscow (Youth A) | Lead}}
{{Medal|Bronze|2017 Innsbruck (Youth B) | Bouldering}}
{{Medal|Bronze|2017 Innsbruck (Youth B) | Combined}}
{{Medal|Bronze|2018 Moscow (Youth A) | Bouldering}}
}}
{{Nihongo|Futaba Ito|伊藤 ふたば|Ito Futaba|born 25 April 2002}} is a Japanese professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer. She participates in both bouldering and lead climbing competitions. She won the IFSC Climbing Asian Youth Championships in lead and bouldering events in 2016, as well as Bouldering Japan Cup in 2017.{{cite news|url=https://mainichi.jp/english/articles/20170130/p2a/00m/0na/007000c|title=Teenage girl becomes youngest winner of Bouldering Japan Cup|work=Mainichi|date=30 January 2017|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190603103120/https://mainichi.jp/english/articles/20170130/p2a/00m/0na/007000c|archive-date=3 June 2019}} She participated in combined and speed events at the 2018 Asian Games.
Biography
Ito was born on 25 April 2002, in Morioka, Iwate Prefecture, Japan. She started climbing in her third year of elementary school, encouraged by her father who did sport climbing as a hobby. Her talent was apparent from early on; on her first day of climbing, she reportedly surprised her father by climbing 15 meters up high without stopping, despite not having had any prior climbing experience.{{cite web|url=https://www.daily.co.jp/general/2017/01/30/0009871679.shtml|title=Itō Futaba Sainenshō V 14-sai 'Supaidāman' Yume wa Gorin, W-Hai, Sekai Senshuken Seiha|language=Japanese|trans-title=Futaba Ito, Youngest Champion: 14-year-old 'Spiderman' Whose Dreams are Winning the Olympics, the World Cup and the World Championships|publisher=Daily Sports|date=January 30, 2017}}
She started taking part in public tournaments in 2014, when she came in second place at the 17th Junior Olympic Cup in the under-Youth B age group in lead climbing.{{cite web|url=http://www.jma-sangaku.or.jp/games/document/2232012081417thjocjr_result.pdf|title=Dai 17-kai JOC Junia Orinpikku Kappu|language=Japanese|trans-title=17th JOC Junior Olympic Cup|publisher=Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association}}
In 2015, she achieved victory in the Japan Youth Championships lead event (under-Youth B age group),{{cite web|url=http://www.jma-sangaku.or.jp/games/competition/youth/document/youth2015resultrev.pdf|title=Kuraimingu Nippon Yūsu Senshuken 2015 Mirē Kappu|language=Japanese|trans-title=Climbing Japan Youth Championships 2015 Millet Cup|publisher=Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association}} and the All Japan Climbing Youth Championships Bouldering Tournament (Youth C).{{cite web|url=http://www.jma-sangaku.or.jp/games/document/22320150518ajbyouthresult.pdf|title=Zennippon Kuraimingu Yūsu Senshuken Borudaringu Kyōgi Taikai 2015 Saishū Seiseki|language=Japanese|trans-title=All Japan Climbing Youth Championships Bouldering Tournament 2015, Final Results|publisher=Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association}} In the same year, she also won both the lead and bouldering events (Youth C) while representing Japan in the IFSC Climbing Asian Youth Championships in Putrajaya, Malaysia.{{cite web|url=http://www.sccoj.org/competition/detail/IFSC-Climbing-Asian-Youth-Championship-2015/|title=FSC Kuraimingu Andā Yūsu Senshuken Putorajaya 2015|publisher=Sport Climbing Council of Japan}}
In 2016, she entered the All Japan Climbing Championships Lead Tournament, where she came 3rd in the girls' senior category, and won the Youth B category.{{cite web|url=http://www.jma-sangaku.or.jp/games/document/22320160329cyouthjcresult.pdf|title=Mamūto Kappu 2016 Supōtsu Kuraimingu Nippon Senshuken Ken Nihon Yūsu Senshuken Rīdo Kyōgi Taikai|language=Japanese|trans-title=Mammut Cup 2016 Sport Climbing Japan Championships and Japan Youth Championships Lead Tournament|publisher=Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association}} In November of the same year she represented Japan in the IFSC World Youth Championships in Guangzhou, China, where she came 2nd in bouldering in the girls' Youth B category.{{cite web|url=http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=1616&cat=80|title=IFSC World Youth Championships - Guangzhou (CHN) - 2016: General Result Female Youth B Boulder|date=November 13, 2016}}
In January 2017, Ito won the 12th Sport Climbing Bouldering Japan Cup, where she faced the more experienced Japanese climbers Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nonaka.{{cite web|url=https://jma-sangaku.or.jp/climbing/temp_results/bjc/2017/bjcw_gfr.pdf|title=Supōtsu Kuraimingu Dai 12-kai Borudaringu Japan Kappu Joshi Sōgō Jun'i|language=Japanese|trans-title=Sport Climbing 12th Bouldering Japan Cup General Women's Ranking|publisher=Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association}}{{Cite news|title=Borudaringu, Morioka no Chū-2 ga Sainenshō de Hatsuyūshō|language=Japanese|trans-title=Morioka 2nd Year Junior High School Student Wins Bouldering for First Time, the Youngest Ever|newspaper=Nippon TV News 24 Japan|date=2017-01-30|url=http://www.news24.jp/articles/2017/01/30/09352846.html|accessdate=2018-09-03}} At 14 years and 9 months, Ito was youngest person ever to win the Japan Cup, beating Noguchi's 16 years and 3 months at the first Japan Cup in 2005. She was also the youngest athlete to represent Japan in the 2018 Bouldering World Cup, where she placed 8th.{{Cite web|title=Joshi Kōsei Kuraimā, Seichō Apīru Borudaringu W-Hai|language=Japanese|trans-title=High School Girl Climber Coming of Age|newspaper=Asahi Shinbun Digital|date=June 5, 2018|url=https://www.asahi.com/articles/ASL646JFFL64UTQP02B.html?iref=comtop_photo|accessdate=2018-06-05}}{{cite web | archive-url=https://archive.today/20190705202222/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition%23!type=ranking&cat=5&cup=744#!type=ranking&cat=5&cup=744 | archive-date=July 5, 2019 | url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!type=ranking&cat=5&cup=744 | title=IFSC Climbing World Cup 2019: W O M E N bouldering | publisher=International Federation of Sport Climbing| access-date=5 July 2019 | url-status=live }}
In August 2018 she participated in combined and speed events at the Asian Games, held in Palembang, Indonesia.
In 2019 she won the Adidas Rockstars bouldering competition. In this event she defeated Janja Garnbret in the superfinal.{{cite web|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190916192516/https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/09/adidas_rockstars_2019_-_report-72062|archive-date=Sep 16, 2019|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2019/09/adidas_rockstars_2019_-_report-72062|title=adidas ROCKSTARS 2019 - Report
Rankings
= [[IFSC Climbing World Championships]] =
| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center"
! style="background: #b0e0e6" | ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | Hachioji ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | Moscow |
| align="left" | Lead
| 14 | |
| align="left" | Bouldering
| 7 | 13 |
| align="left" | Speed
| 27 | |
| align="left" | Combined
| 7 | |
= [[IFSC Climbing World Cup]] =
| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center"
! style="background: #b0e0e6" | ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2018 ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2019 ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2021 ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2022 ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2023 |
| align="left" | Lead
| 24 | 30 | 28 | 18 | 19 |
| align="left" | Bouldering
| 8 | 4 | 8 | 4 | 13 |
| align="left" | Speed
| 48 | 41 | | | |
| align="left" | Combined
| 7 | 12 | | 7 | 13 |
= [[IFSC Climbing Asian Championships]] =
| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center"
! style="background: #b0e0e6" | ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | Kurayoshi ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | Seoul |
| align="left" | Lead
| 10 | 4 |
| align="left" | Bouldering
| style = "background: Gold;"|1 | style = "background: Gold;"|1 |
| align="left" | Speed
| 15 | |
| align="left" | Combined
|style = "background: #A77044;"| 3 |style = "background: #A77044;"| 3 |
= [[IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships|IFSC World Youth Championships]]=
| class="wikitable" style="text-align: center"
! style="background: #b0e0e6" | ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2016 ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2017 | archive-url=https://archive.today/20190705221832/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition%23!comp=6106&cat=20#!comp=6106&cat=20 | url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=6106&cat=20 | archive-date=July 5, 2019 | title=IFSC Youth World Championships - Innsbruck (AUT) - 2017 LEAD | publisher=IFSC | access-date=July 5, 2019 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://archive.today/20190705222217/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition%23!comp=6106&cat=80#!comp=6106&cat=80 | url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=6106&cat=80 | archive-date=July 5, 2019 | title=IFSC Youth World Championships - Innsbruck (AUT) - 2017 BOULDERING | publisher=IFSC | access-date=July 5, 2019 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://archive.today/20190705222410/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition%23!comp=6106&cat=61#!comp=6106&cat=61 | url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=6106&cat=61 | archive-date=July 5, 2019 | title=IFSC Youth World Championships - Innsbruck (AUT) - 2017 SPEED | publisher=IFSC | access-date=July 5, 2019 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://archive.today/20190705221505/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition%23!comp=7051&cat=287#!comp=7051&cat=287 | url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=7051&cat=287 | archive-date=July 5, 2019 | title=IFSC Youth World Championships Combined - Innsbruck (AUT) - 2017 | publisher=IFSC | access-date=July 5, 2019 | url-status=live }} ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2018 | archive-url=https://archive.today/20190705222835/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition%23!comp=7188&cat=19#!comp=7188&cat=19 | url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=7188&cat=19 | archive-date=July 5, 2019 | title=IFSC Youth World Championships - Moscow (RUS) 2018 LEAD | publisher=IFSC | access-date=July 5, 2019 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://archive.today/20190705223014/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition%23!comp=7188&cat=79#!comp=7188&cat=79 | url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=7188&cat=79 | archive-date=July 5, 2019 | title=IFSC Youth World Championships - Moscow (RUS) 2018 BOULDERING | publisher=IFSC | access-date=July 5, 2019 | url-status=live | archive-url=https://archive.today/20190705223136/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition%23!comp=7188&cat=60#!comp=7188&cat=60 | url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!comp=7188&cat=60 | archive-date=July 5, 2019 | title=IFSC Youth World Championships - Moscow (RUS) 2018 SPEED | publisher=IFSC | access-date=July 5, 2019 | url-status=live }} |
| align="left" | Lead
| 9 | style="background: #cc9966" | 3 | style="background: silver" | 2 |
| align="left" | Bouldering
| style="background: silver" | 2 | style="background: gold" | 1 | style="background: #cc9966" | 3 |
| align="left" | Speed
| | 34 | 21 |
| align="left" | Combined
| | style="background: #cc9966" | 3 | |
References
{{Reflist}}
External links
{{Climber links
| website = http://futaba-ito.com
| ifsc = 60150
| 8a =
| climbing =
| instagram = futaba_ito
| facebook =
}}
{{Portal bar|Climbing|Japan}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Ito, Futaba}}
Category:Japanese rock climbers
Category:Sport climbers at the 2018 Asian Games
Category:Asian Games competitors for Japan
Category:Japanese competition climbers