Garment collars in hanfu#Youren (right lapel)

{{See also|Hufu}}

{{See also|Ru (upper garment)}}

File:Daao3.jpg

Chinese robes, such as the {{Transliteration|zh|shenyi}} and the {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}} as a general term, as well as Chinese jackets must typically cover the right part of their garment.{{Cite book |last=Ma |first=Xiaofang |title=Proceedings of the 3rd International Conference on Contemporary Education, Social Sciences and Humanities (ICCESSH 2018) |url=https://www.atlantis-press.com/proceedings/iccessh-18/25898038 |date=2018 |publisher=Atlantis Press |isbn=978-94-6252-528-3 |pages=639–643 |language=en |chapter=Study on the Aesthetics of Han Chinese Clothing Culture in the TV Play q Nirvana in Fireq |doi=10.2991/iccessh-18.2018.143}} Styles of garments which overlap at the front and close to the wearer's right side are known as {{Transliteration|zh|youren}} ({{Lang-zh|c=右衽|l=right lapel}}). The {{Transliteration|zh|youren}} closure is a style which originated in China and can be traced back to the Shang dynasty.{{Cite journal |last=Yu |first=Song-Ok |date=1980 |title=A Comparative Study on the Upper Garment in the Ancient East and West |url=https://www.koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO198020336527455.page |journal=Journal of the Korean Society of Costume |volume=3 |pages=29–46 |issn=1229-6880}} The {{Transliteration|zh|youren}} is also an important symbol of the Han Chinese ethnicity. The {{Transliteration|zh|youren}} closure was eventually adopted by other ethnic minorities and was also spread to neighbouring countries, such as Vietnam, Korea and Japan.

File:Xiongnu Leather Robe, Han period, Henan Provincial Museum, Zhengzhou.jpg leather robes, Han dynasty]]

Chinese people also wore another form of closure known as {{Transliteration|zh|zuoren}} ({{Lang-zh|c=左衽|l=left lapel}}), which generally refers the way garment overlaps on the front, like the {{Transliteration|zh|youren}} closure, but instead closes on the left side. According to the {{Transliteration|zh|Shuowen Jiezi}} 《{{Linktext|說文解字}}》, a form of {{Transliteration|zh|paofu}}, known as {{Transliteration|zh|xi}} ({{Linktext|襲}}), was a robe with a {{Transliteration|zh|zuoren}} closure{{Cite web |title=說文解字「襲」 |url=https://www.shuowen.org/view/5248 |access-date=2022-07-11 |website=www.shuowen.org |language=en}} while the coat known as {{Transliteration|zh|zhe}} ({{Linktext|褶}}; sometimes also referred as {{Transliteration|zh|xi}}), typically used as part of the {{Transliteration|zh|kuzhe}}, was also a {{Transliteration|zh|xi}} ({{Lang-zh|c=襲|l=|labels=no}}) according to the {{Transliteration|zh|Shiming}}.{{Cite web |title=Shiming《釋衣服》 |url=https://ctext.org/dictionary.pl?if=en&id=40978 |access-date=2022-07-11 |website=ctext.org |language=en}}

The use of {{Transliteration|zh|zuoren}}, however, was typically associated with funeral practices. This can also be found in the chapter {{Transliteration|zh|Sang da ji}} ({{Linktext|喪|大|記}}) of the {{Transliteration|zh|Liji}} ({{Linktext|禮|記}}):

{{Blockquote|text="At both the dressings the sacrificial robes were not placed below the others. They were all placed with the lapel to lie on the left side. The bands were tied firmly, and not in a bow-knot [小斂大斂，祭服不倒，皆左衽結絞不紐]."}}

According to ancient Chinese beliefs, the only moment the Han Chinese were supposed to use {{Transliteration|zh|zuoren}} was when they dressed their deceased. This funeral practice was rooted in ancient Chinese beliefs; especially in the Yin and Yang theory, where it is believed that the left side is the {{Transliteration|zh|Yang}} and stands for life whereas the right side is the {{Transliteration|zh|Yin}} which stands for death.{{Cite journal |last=Shi |first=Songge |date=2021 |title=Travelling With Hanfu: A Social Media Analysis of Contemporary Chinese Travelling for Artistic Photographs |url=https://openrepository.aut.ac.nz/handle/10292/13916 |language=en}}

File:吳氏先祖容像五.jpg

Therefore, according to the Yin and Yang theory, the left lapel of a garment needs to be found outside (which is in the form of {{Transliteration|zh|youren}} closure) to indicate that the power of the {{Transliteration|zh|Yang}} aspect is suppressing the {{Transliteration|zh|Yin}} aspect, which thus symbolizes the clothing of living people. On the other hand, the {{Transliteration|zh|zuoren}} is a representation of the {{Transliteration|zh|Yin}} aspect surpassing the {{Transliteration|zh|Yang}} aspect, and thus, garments with a {{Transliteration|zh|zuoren}} closure became the clothing worn by the deceased. It was therefore a taboo in Chinese clothing culture for a living person to wear clothing with a {{Transliteration|zh|zuoren}} closure.

There are exceptions in which living Han Chinese would wear clothing with a {{Transliteration|zh|zuoren}} closure. For example, in some areas (such as Northern Hebei) in the 10th century, some ethnic Han Chinese could be found wearing left-lapel clothing.{{Cite book |last=Zhang |first=Ling |url=http://ebooks.cambridge.org/ref/id/CBO9781316659298 |title=The River, the Plain, and the State: An Environmental Drama in Northern Song China, 1048-1128 |date=2016 |publisher=Cambridge University Press |isbn=978-1-316-65929-8 |location=Cambridge |doi=10.1017/cbo9781316659298.002 }}{{Dead link|date=May 2024 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }} It was also common for the Han Chinese women to adopt left lapel under the reign of foreign nationalities, such as in the Yuan dynasty.{{Cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=rUvrAAAAMAAJ&q=damao&pg=PA208 |title=The Museum of Far East Antique Bulletin 70 |publisher=Östasiatiska museet |year=1998 |pages=208}} The practice of wearing the {{Transliteration|zh|zuoren}} also continued in some areas of the Ming dynasty despite being a Han Chinese-ruled dynasty which is an atypical feature.

File:Northern Wei Pottery Figure, Tomb of Sima Jinlong, 484 AD (10100552803).jpg women wearing a {{Transliteration|zh|zuoren}} robe, Northern Wei]]The {{Transliteration|zh|zuoren}} closure was also associated with the clothing of non-Han Chinese, ethnic minorities, and foreigners in ancient times. Some ethnic minorities generally had their clothing closing in the {{Transliteration|zh|zuoren}}-style according to what was recorded in ancient Chinese texts, such as the Qiang.{{Cite book |last=Tse |first=Wicky W. K. |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1042329243 |title=The collapse of China's later Han Dynasty, 25-220 CE : the northwest borderlands and the edge of empire |date=2018 |isbn=978-1-315-53231-8 |location=London |oclc=1042329243}}{{Rp|page=101}} As a result, the traditional way to distinguish between clothing of the "Barbarian" (i.e. non-Han Chinese), {{Transliteration|zh|Hufu}}, and Chinese clothing, {{Transliteration|zh|hanfu}}, was typically by looking at the direction of the collar.{{Cite book |last=Xu |first=Jing |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/950971983 |title=A Chinese traveler in medieval Korea : Xu Jing's illustrated account of the Xuanhe embassy to Koryo |date=2016 |others=Sem Vermeersch |isbn=978-0-8248-6683-9 |location=Honolulu |pages=331–332 |oclc=950971983}}

This can also be found in the Analects where Confucius himself praised Guan Zhong for preventing the weakened Zhou dynasty from becoming barbarians:{{Cite book |last=Kang |first=Chae-ŏn |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/60931394 |title=The land of scholars : two thousand years of Korean Confucianism |date=2006 |others=Suzanne Lee |isbn=1-931907-30-7 |edition=1st |location=Paramus, New Jersey |oclc=60931394}}{{Cite book |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/895162445 |title=Dress and ideology : fashioning identity from antiquity to the present |date=2015 |others=Shoshana-Rose Marzel, Guy Stiebel |isbn=978-1-4725-5808-4 |location=London |pages=41 |oclc=895162445}}{{Cite web |title=論語 : 憲問 - 微管仲，吾其被髮左衽矣。 - 中國哲學書電子化計劃 |url=https://ctext.org/analects/xian-wen/zh?searchu=%E5%BE%AE%E7%AE%A1%E4%BB%B2%EF%BC%8C%E5%90%BE%E5%85%B6%E8%A2%AB%E9%AB%AE%E5%B7%A6%E8%A1%BD%E7%9F%A3%E3%80%82 |access-date=2022-02-07 |website=ctext.org |language=zh-TW}}

{{Blockquote|text="But for Guan Zhong, we should now be wearing our hair unbound [pifa], and the lapels of our coats buttoning on the left side [zuoren]. [微管仲，吾其被髮左衽矣]."}}

Based on Confucius' sayings, {{Transliteration|zh|pifa zuoren}} ({{Lang-zh|c=|l=unbound hair left lapel|labels=|s=被发左衽|t=被髮左衽|p=bèifà zuǒrèn}}), bound hair and coats which closed on the left side, was associated with the clothing customs of the northern nomadic ethnic groups who were considered as barbarians. From the standpoint of the Huaxia culture, {{Transliteration|zh|pifa}} was a way to reject refined culture and being turned into a barbarian.{{Rp|page=101}}

By the Han dynasty, since Confucius himself was the first person to use the phrase {{Transliteration|zh|pifa zuoren}} to refer to Non-Zhou dynasty people, this phrase became a common metaphor for primitiveness.{{Rp|page=103}} When used by the ancient Chinese literati, the concept of {{Transliteration|zh|pifa zuoren}} became a phrase, which held the symbolic of foreign people who were living a barbarous and civilized lifestyle; this concept also became a way to emphasize the customs differences between the Han people and other ethnic minorities and draw the line to distinguish who was were considered as civilized and barbarians.{{Rp|page=103}} The {{Transliteration|zh|zuoren}} thus also became a reference to {{Transliteration|zh|Hufu}} and/or to the rule of foreign nationalities. Of note, some non-Chinese ethnicity who adopted {{Transliteration|zh|Hanfu}}-style sometimes maintain their left lapels, such as the Khitans in the Liao dynasty.{{Cite book |last=Kuhn |first=Dieter |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/192050158 |title=The age of Confucian rule : the Song transformation of China |date=2009 |publisher=Belknap Press of Harvard University Press |isbn=978-0-674-03146-3 |location=Cambridge, Mass. |oclc=192050158}}{{Rp|page=267|pages=}}

{{Clear}}

{{See also|Áo giao lĩnh}}

File:Ming1.jpg (left) and jiaoling youren shan (right), Ming dynasty]]

{{Transliteration|zh|Jiaoling youren}} ({{Lang-zh|c=交領右衽}}) were cross-collars which overlapped on the front and closed on the right side following the {{Transliteration|zh|youren}} ({{Lang-zh|c=右衽|labels=no}}) rule;{{Cite journal |last1=Ho |first1=Wei |last2=Lee |first2=Eun-Young |date=2009 |title=Modem Meaning of Han Chinese Clothing(韓服) |url=https://koreascience.or.kr/article/JAKO200916263468106.page |journal=Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association |volume=11 |issue=1 |pages=99–109 |issn=1229-7240}} they can also be described as cross-collar garments closing to the right side, or y-shaped collar. The {{Transliteration|zh|jiaoling youren}} started to be worn in the Shang dynasty in China.{{Cite book |last=Zhao |first=Yin |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/912499249 |title=Snapshots of Chinese culture |date=2014 |others=Xinzhi Cai |isbn=978-1-62643-003-7 |location=Los Angeles |oclc=912499249}}{{Cite journal |last1=Kidd |first1=Laura K. |last2=Lee |first2=Younsoo |date=2002 |title=The Style Characteristics of the Hwalot, with a Focus on One Robe from the Collection of the Honolulu Academy of Arts |url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/0887302x0202000101 |journal=Clothing and Textiles Research Journal |volume=20 |issue=1 |pages=1–14 |doi=10.1177/0887302x0202000101 |issn=0887-302X |s2cid=110839493|url-access=subscription }} This form of collar eventually became one of the major symbols of the Sino Kingdoms and eventually spread throughout Asia. Garments and attire which used the {{Transliteration|zh|jiaoling youren}} collar include: shenyi, jiaolingpao, mianfu, pienfu, diyi, dahu, and tieli.

File:吳氏先祖容像十三.jpg

{{Transliteration|zh|Jiaoling zouren}} refers to the cross-collars which closes on the left side instead of the right side. They were typically used by non-Han Chinese ethnicities in ancient China, but were also adopted by the Han Chinese in some circumstances, e.g. when they were ruled by non-Han Chinese rulers. Han Chinese women were also found sometimes found in the paintings of the Ming dynasty, which is an atypical feature. They were also used to dress the deceased of the Han Chinese.

Collars which runs parallel and straight at the front are called duijin (对襟).{{Cite web |date=2020-10-14 |title=Ancient Chinese Fashion: Historical Prototype of Hanfu Style |url=https://www.newhanfu.com/6565.html |access-date=2022-05-26 |website=www.newhanfu.com |language=en-US}}{{Cite book |last=Silberstein |first=Rachel |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1121420666 |title=A fashionable century : textile artistry and commerce in the late Qing |date=2020 |isbn=978-0-295-74719-4 |location=Seattle |oclc=1121420666}}{{Rp|page=22}} Garments with duijin collars can either be closed at the centre front{{Rp|page=22}}{{Cite book |last1=Jiang |first1=Wanyi |last2=Li |first2=Zhaoqing |title=Proceedings of the 6th International Conference on Arts, Design and Contemporary Education (ICADCE 2020) |chapter=Analysis on Evolution, Design and Application of Women's Traditional Coats in Beijing in the Late Qing Dynasty and the Early Republic of China: Based on the Collection of Ethnic Custom Museum of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology |date=2021-01-06 |url=https://www.atlantis-press.com/proceedings/icadce-20/125950848 |language=en |publisher=Atlantis Press |pages=641–648 |doi=10.2991/assehr.k.210106.123 |isbn=978-94-6239-314-1|s2cid=234293619 }} or be left opened in the front. They could be found with or without a high collar depending on the time period. Duijin could be used in garments and attire, such as beizi, banbi, and beixin.

File:Clothing, Southern Song (33677972835).jpg|Daxiushan with duijin collar, Song dynasty

File:Gauze Robe, Southern Song (33548426031).jpg|Beizi with duijin collar, Song dynasty

File:Gauze Dress, Southern Song (33677959605).jpg|Shan with duijin collar, Song dynasty

File:Gauze Garment, Southern Song (33548384501).jpg|Beixin with duijin collar, Song dynasty

File:錢三持家堂圖像.jpg

Round collars are called yuanling (圆领) or panling (盘领).{{Cite thesis |last=유혜영 |date=1992 |title=돈황석굴벽화에 보이는 일반복식의 연구 |publisher=이화여자대학교 대학원 |url=https://dspace.ewha.ac.kr/handle/2015.oak/192241|type=Doctoral Thesis }}{{Cite web |date=2021-06-17 |title=Hanfu Making(5) - Pan Collar Aoqun Cutting & Sewing Patterns - 2022 |url=https://www.newhanfu.com/17278.html |access-date=2022-05-26 |website=www.newhanfu.com |language=en-US}} In ancient China, clothing with round collars were typically introduced and/or influenced by foreign ethnicities, such as the Donghu,{{Cite book |last=Wang |first=Fang |title=Proceedings of the 2nd International Conference on Economics and Management, Education, Humanities and Social Sciences (EMEHSS 2018) |chapter=Study on Structure and Craft of Traditional Costumes of Edge |date=2018 |chapter-url=https://www.atlantis-press.com/article/25891885.pdf |language=en |publisher=Atlantis Press |pages=584–588 |doi=10.2991/emehss-18.2018.118 |isbn=978-94-6252-476-7}}{{Cite journal |last1=Yang |first1=Shuran |last2=Yue |first2=Li |last3=Wang |first3=Xiaogang |date=2021-08-01 |title=Study on the structure and virtual model of "xiezhi" gown in Ming dynasty |journal=Journal of Physics: Conference Series |volume=1986 |issue=1 |pages=012116 |doi=10.1088/1742-6596/1986/1/012116 |bibcode=2021JPhCS1986a2116Y |issn=1742-6588 |s2cid=236985886|doi-access=free }} the Wuhu,{{Cite book |last=Dien |first=Albert E. |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/72868060 |title=Six dynasties civilization |date=2007 |publisher=Yale University Press |isbn=978-0-300-07404-8 |location=New Haven, Conn. |oclc=72868060}}{{Rp|page=317}} and the foreigners from Central Asia, such as the Sogdians,{{Cite journal |last=Zhao |first=Qiwang |date=2020 |title=Western Cultural Factors in Robes of Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties as Well as Sui and Tang Dynasties |url=https://webofproceedings.org/proceedings_series/ART2L/ICALLH%202020/WHYWB288.pdf |journal=2020 3rd International Conference on Arts, Linguistics, Literature and Humanities (ICALLH 2020) |publisher=Francis Academic Press, UK |pages=141–147 |doi=10.25236/icallh.2020.025 |doi-broken-date=1 November 2024}}{{Cite journal |last=Zhao |first=Qiwang |date=2019 |title=The Origin of Partial Decorations in Gowns of the Northern Qi and Tang Dynasties |journal=2nd International Conference on Cultures, Languages and Literatures, and Arts |pages=342–349 |doi=}} and the Mongols, at different point in time. Yuanling can be overlapping to the right or closing at the front in the duijin manner.{{Cite web |date=2021-04-04 |title=Guide to Hanfu Types Summary & Dress Codes (Ming Dynasty) |url=https://www.newhanfu.com/13840.html |access-date=2022-06-13 |website=www.newhanfu.com |language=en-US}} Yuanling could be used in garments and attire, such as yuanlingshan, yuanlingpao, panling lanshan, and wulingshan (无领衫).

File:Artifact hanfu6.jpg|Yuanlingshan closing on the right, Ming dynasty

File:Artifact hanfu8.jpg|Panling lanshan, Ming dynasty

File:Artifact hanfu12.jpg|Yuanlingshan closing on the right, Ming dynasty

File:Ming2a.jpg|Yuanling banbi, which closes at the front in a duijin manner.

File:MET 62 220 0486.jpg|Qing dynasty

File:MET 45 86 2 F.jpeg|Yuanling shan, Qing dynasty.

{{See also|Mandarin collar}}

File:五品曲氏婦人官像 (cropped).jpg

High standing collars in the Ming dynasty are referred as shuling (竖领) or liling (立领). They appeared by the late Ming dynasty.{{Cite book |last=Finnane |first=Antonia |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/166381500 |title=Changing clothes in China : fashion, history, nation |date=2007 |publisher=Hurst & Co |isbn=978-1-85065-860-3 |location=London |oclc=166381500}}{{Rp|page=93}} There were two main forms of high standing collars garments based on their types of lapels and closure.

Clothing with shuling dajin (竖领大襟), also called liling dajin or shuling xiejin or liling xiejin, has a standing collar and a large lapel which closes on the right. The dajin placket is also called xiejin ({{Lang-zh|c=斜襟|p=xiéjīn|l=slanted placket}}).

File:一品命婦容像.jpg|Shuling dajin, High collar with overlapping front, Ming dynasty

File:吳氏先祖容像六.jpg|Shuling dajin, High collar with overlapping front, Ming dynasty

File:Mingero 05 (cropped).JPG

Clothing with shuling duijin (or liling (or shuling) duijin) has a standing collar and closes with a central front closure.

Fanling refers to the lapel collars, typically categorized as Hufu-style collars

Square collars are referred as fangling (方领).{{Cite book |last=Zhang |first=Weiwei |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/947083957 |title=Variation in metonymy : cross-linguistic, historical and lectal perspectives |date=2016 |isbn=978-3-11-045583-0 |location=Berlin |oclc=947083957}}{{Rp|page=166}}

File:宣宗出獵圖軸（局部）.jpg|Zhaojia (罩甲) with square collar, Ming dynasty

File:2016-05-16 Changling-Mausoleum - Frauenjacke mit Drachen, Kinder und Blumen anagoria 01.JPG| Duijin (对襟) jacket with square collar, Ming dynasty.

U-shaped collar are known as tanling ({{Lang-zh|c=坦领|p=tǎnlǐng|l=flat collar/ open-hearted collar}}).{{Cite web |last=王金妍 |title=Hanfu: China's traditional Han-style clothing |url=https://www.chinastory.cn/ywdbk/english/v1/detail/20190729/1012700000042741564380516900986039_1.html |access-date=2022-05-26 |website=www.chinastory.cn |date=29 July 2019 |language=en}} Tanling could be used in garments and attire, such as tanling banbi and tanling ruqun.

Pianjin ({{Lang-zh|c=偏襟|p=piānjīn|l=slanted placket}}), also called Pipa-shaped collars and sometimes referred as 'slanted' collar in English, were form of collars which overlaps and closes to the right side with a big lapel. This form of collar was influenced by the Manchu clothing. The Manchu's front overlap opening was a Manchu innovation; their clothing was closed with buttons on the centre front of the neck, right clavicle, and under the right arm along the right seams.{{Cite web |date=2017-10-16 |title=Turn back your cuffs |url=https://johnevollmer.com/chinese-dress/turn-back-your-cuffs/ |access-date=2022-05-26 |website=John E. Vollmer |language=en}} The Manchu overlap was more shaped like an S-curved overlap; it ran straight to the right of the centre-front of the neck, drops down to the burst before curving to the right side.{{Cite book |last=Bonds |first=Alexandra B. |url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/256864936 |title=Beijing opera costumes : the visual communication of character and culture |date=2008 |publisher=University of Hawaiʻi Press |isbn=978-1-4356-6584-2 |location=Honolulu |oclc=256864936}}{{Rp|page=63}} The Manchu's garments rarely showed high collars until the 20th century.{{Rp|page=93}} The Pip-shaped collar were worn in the Qing dynasty and the Republic of China.{{Cite web |date=2021-02-14 |title=Women's Clothing Changes During the Ming and Qing Dynasties |url=https://www.newhanfu.com/12220.html |access-date=2022-05-26 |website=www.newhanfu.com |language=en-US}} It could be found without or with a high collar (e.g. mandarin collar).

File:China, 19th century - Han Woman's Jacket - 1956.306 - Cleveland Museum of Art.tif|Pipa-shaped collar in Han woman ao (jacket), Qing dynasty

File:MET RT683.jpg|The collar of this ao (jacket) was influenced by the pipa-shaped collar, Qing dynasty

File:Imperial robe (changfu) with dragon roundels, China, Qing dynasty, Xiangeng reign, 1850-1861 AD, silk, metal buttons - Textile Museum, George Washington University - DSC09880.JPG|Manchu pipa-collar, Qing dynasty

File:MET TP446.jpg|Manchu pipa-collar, Qing dynasty

File:MET 1980 205 O1 sf.jpg|Manchu pipa-collar, Qing dynasty

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Category:Chinese traditional clothing

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