Masala Lab PDX

{{Short description|Defunct restaurant in Portland, Oregon, U.S.}}

{{Use mdy dates|date=April 2025}}

{{Infobox restaurant

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| name = Masala Lab

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| closed = {{End date|2025|01|26}}

| current-owner = Deepak Saxena

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| chef = Deepak Saxena

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| food-type = {{Flatlist|

  • Indian
  • Indian American
  • Indian fusion
  • Modern Indian

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| street-address =5237 Northeast Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard

| city = Portland

| county = Multnomah

| state = Oregon

| postcode = 97211

| country = United States

| coordinates = {{coord|45.5612|-122.6619|type:landmark|display=inline,title}}

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Masala Lab PDX (also known as Masala Lab + Market, or simply Masala Lab) was an Indian restaurant and former commissary kitchen in Portland, Oregon.{{Cite web |last=Frane |first=Alex |date=2019-02-12 |title=Where to Celebrate Valentine's Day in Portland |url=https://pdx.eater.com/2019/2/12/18222319/valentines-day-events-portland |access-date=2024-05-24 |website=Eater Portland |language=en |archive-date=2022-03-08 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220308233947/https://pdx.eater.com/2019/2/12/18222319/valentines-day-events-portland |url-status=live }} Chef and owner Deepak Saxena operated the business in northeast Portland's King neighborhood, serving gluten-free fusion cuisine such as fritters, sandwiches with Indian ingredients, and shrimp and grits. Masala Lab garnered a generally positive reception.

The restaurant closed permanently in January 2025.

Description

The restaurant Masala Lab operated in northeast Portland's King neighborhood.{{Cite web |title=The Best Takeout and Dine-In for Holiday Meals in Portland |url=https://www.pdxmonthly.com/eat-and-drink/portland-restaurants-open-on-christmas-takeout |access-date=2024-05-24 |website=Portland Monthly |language=en-US |archive-date=2023-12-13 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20231213184326/https://www.pdxmonthly.com/eat-and-drink/portland-restaurants-open-on-christmas-takeout |url-status=live }} It served Indian breakfast food as well as Indian interpretations of "classic" American cuisine, according to Willamette Week.{{Cite web |date=2022-06-16 |title=The Chef-Owner Behind DesiPDX Is Opening a Gluten-Free Indian Brunch Restaurant This Summer |url=https://www.wweek.com/restaurants/2022/06/15/the-chef-owner-behind-desipdx-is-opening-a-gluten-free-indian-brunch-restaurant-this-summer/ |access-date=2024-05-24 |website=Willamette Week |language=en |archive-date=2022-07-09 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220709123632/https://www.wweek.com/restaurants/2022/06/15/the-chef-owner-behind-desipdx-is-opening-a-gluten-free-indian-brunch-restaurant-this-summer/ |url-status=live }} Brooke Jackson-Glidden and other Eater Portland writers described Masala Lab as an Indian American restaurant.{{Cite web |last=Jackson-Glidden |first=Brooke |date=2024-01-11 |title=Ahead of the Forecasted Snowstorm This Weekend, Portland Chefs Are Selling 'Snowpocalypse Kits' |url=https://pdx.eater.com/2024/1/11/24034962/portland-snowstorm-weather-2024-meal-kits |access-date=2024-05-24 |website=Eater Portland |language=en |archive-date=2024-03-18 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240318172906/https://pdx.eater.com/2024/1/11/24034962/portland-snowstorm-weather-2024-meal-kits |url-status=live }}{{Cite web |last=Baillargeon |first=Zoe |date=2016-02-16 |title=Where to Find a Real-Deal Breakfast in Portland |url=https://pdx.eater.com/maps/best-portland-breakfast-restaurants-eggs-benedict-hash-pancakes |access-date=2024-05-24 |website=Eater Portland |language=en |archive-date=2020-11-12 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201112010247/https://pdx.eater.com/maps/best-portland-breakfast-restaurants-eggs-benedict-hash-pancakes |url-status=live }}{{Cite web |last=Scott |first=Ron |date=2017-06-09 |title=Where to Find Exceptional Indian Food in Portland and the Nearby Suburbs |url=https://pdx.eater.com/maps/best-indian-food-restaurants-portland |access-date=2024-05-24 |website=Eater Portland |language=en |archive-date=2022-02-15 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220215215734/https://pdx.eater.com/maps/best-indian-food-restaurants-portland |url-status=live }} Fodor's said the restaurant had "colorful purple-and-green color scheme, soaring ceilings with exposed air ducts, and lots of hanging plants", and served a "modern mashup of Indian cuisine and comfort brunch fare".Fodor's:

  • {{Cite web |last= |title=Masala Lab PDX Review - Portland Oregon - Restaurant |url=https://www.fodors.com/world/north-america/usa/oregon/portland/restaurants/reviews/masala-lab-pdx-s913316 |access-date=2024-05-24 |website=Fodor’s Travel |language=en |archive-date=2024-05-25 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240525013814/https://www.fodors.com/world/north-america/usa/oregon/portland/restaurants/reviews/masala-lab-pdx-s913316 |url-status=live }}
  • {{Cite book |last= |first= |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Y5PPEAAAQBAJ&dq=%22Masala+Lab%22+portland&pg=PT132 |title=Fodor's Pacific Northwest: Portland, Seattle, Vancouver & the Best of Oregon and Washington |date=2023-09-19 |publisher=Fodor's Travel |isbn=978-1-64097-627-6 |language=en |access-date=2024-05-24 |archive-date=2024-05-25 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240525013807/https://books.google.com/books?id=Y5PPEAAAQBAJ&newbks=0&printsec=frontcover&pg=PT132&dq=%22Masala+Lab%22+portland&hl=en#v=onepage&q=%22Masala%20Lab%22%20portland&f=false |url-status=live }}
  • {{Cite book |last= |first= |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=gyPBEAAAQBAJ&dq=%22Masala+Lab%22+portland&pg=PT131 |title=Fodor's Oregon |date=2023-06-13 |publisher=Fodor's Travel |isbn=978-1-64097-601-6 |language=en |access-date=2024-05-24 |archive-date=2024-05-25 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240525013807/https://books.google.com/books?id=gyPBEAAAQBAJ&newbks=0&printsec=frontcover&pg=PT131&dq=%22Masala+Lab%22+portland&hl=en#v=onepage&q=%22Masala%20Lab%22%20portland&f=false |url-status=live }}

The gluten-free{{Cite web |last=Jackson-Glidden |first=Brooke |date=2022-06-16 |title=The Man Behind Desi PDX Will Open Indian Brunch Spot Masala Lab |url=https://pdx.eater.com/2022/6/16/23171258/masala-lab-opening-indian-brunch-portland |access-date=2024-05-24 |website=Eater Portland |language=en |archive-date=2024-03-18 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240318174304/https://pdx.eater.com/2022/6/16/23171258/masala-lab-opening-indian-brunch-portland |url-status=live }} menu included: a BLT with ghee, tomato chutney, and bacon; shrimp and grits with coconut milk polenta and shrimp tikka mole;{{Cite web |last=Jackson-Glidden |first=Brooke |date=2023-05-10 |title=Chef Deepak Saxena's Indian American Sandwich Spot Reopens as a Food Cart This Week |url=https://pdx.eater.com/2023/5/10/23718560/chaat-wallah-reopening-food-cart-portland |access-date=2024-05-24 |website=Eater Portland |language=en |archive-date=2023-12-01 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20231201121948/https://pdx.eater.com/2023/5/10/23718560/chaat-wallah-reopening-food-cart-portland |url-status=live }} and a fritter with chicken or mushrooms. The kitchari had rice dal with cabbage, salad, and pickled eggs. Masala Lab also served chaat hash, saagshuka, scrambled egg bowls with burrata,{{Cite web |last=Jackson-Glidden |first=Brooke |date=2023-06-21 |title=Ask Eater: I'm a Gluten-Free Vegetarian. Where Can I Go Out to Eat? |url=https://pdx.eater.com/2023/6/21/23768928/ask-eater-gluten-free-vegan-restaurants-portland |access-date=2024-05-24 |website=Eater Portland |language=en |archive-date=2023-12-07 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20231207224703/https://pdx.eater.com/2023/6/21/23768928/ask-eater-gluten-free-vegan-restaurants-portland |url-status=live }} and cocktails, including a chai hot toddy.{{Cite web |date=2022-11-23 |title=Where to Drink in Portland This Week |url=https://www.wweek.com/drink/2022/11/22/where-to-drink-in-portland-this-week/ |access-date=2024-05-24 |website=Willamette Week |language=en |archive-date=2024-02-23 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240223201330/https://www.wweek.com/drink/2022/11/22/where-to-drink-in-portland-this-week/ |url-status=live }}{{Cite web |date=2022-11-30 |title=Where to Drink in Portland This Week |url=https://www.wweek.com/drink/2022/11/29/where-to-drink-in-portland-this-week/ |access-date=2024-05-24 |website=Willamette Week |language=en |archive-date=2023-02-08 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230208063606/https://www.wweek.com/drink/2022/11/29/where-to-drink-in-portland-this-week/ |url-status=live }} The lunch menu had sandwiches made with New Cascadia bread and served with dal, a rotating soup, bean salad, or vadouvan pasta salad, as well as other salads and snacks. A tuna fish sandwich called the Tandoori Tuna had tuna from the Oregon Coast, poached in coconut milk and mustard oil. Another sandwich on the menu had saag paneer and Gorge Greens with turmeric mustard dressing. The Masala Mary, a version of a Bloody Mary, had garam masala green chutney, amchoor, Kashmiri red chile, and a cumin rim.

History

Masala Lab PDX initially operated as a commissary kitchen. It hosted Desi PDX as a pop-up restaurant.

In July 2022,{{Cite web |date=2022-12-21 |title=What to Do in Portland This Week (Dec. 21-27, 2022) |url=https://www.wweek.com/arts/2022/12/20/what-to-do-in-portland-this-week-dec-21-27-2022/ |access-date=2024-05-24 |website=Willamette Week |language=en |archive-date=2023-01-07 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230107042324/https://www.wweek.com/arts/2022/12/20/what-to-do-in-portland-this-week-dec-21-27-2022/ |url-status=live }} Masala Lab + Market relocated to a brick and mortar space on Northeast Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard, in the space that previously housed Horn of Africa.{{Cite web |last=Russell |first=Michael |date=2022-06-15 |title=Desi PDX's Indian-inspired brunch spot Masala Lab opens soon; Chaat Wallah closes |url=https://www.oregonlive.com/dining/2022/06/desi-pdxs-indian-inspired-brunch-spot-masala-lab-opens-soon-chaat-wallah-closes.html |access-date=2024-05-24 |website=The Oregonian |language=en |archive-date=2023-06-10 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230610141447/https://www.oregonlive.com/dining/2022/06/desi-pdxs-indian-inspired-brunch-spot-masala-lab-opens-soon-chaat-wallah-closes.html |url-status=live }}{{Cite web |title=Food News: Gregory Gourdet's Cookbook, Everyone's Table, Wins a James Beard Award |url=https://www.pdxmonthly.com/eat-and-drink/2022/06/gregory-gourdet-everyones-table-james-beard-award |access-date=2024-05-24 |website=Portland Monthly |language=en-US |archive-date=2024-05-25 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240525013810/https://www.pdxmonthly.com/eat-and-drink/2022/06/gregory-gourdet-everyones-table-james-beard-award |url-status=live }} In November, chef and owner Deepak Saxena developed and launched a lunch menu with sandwiches, salads, and other snacks.

In December 2022, Saxena partnered with chef Jeremy Fong to serve a Chinese-fusion, family-style Christmas dinner with samosa egg rolls, shrimp-smeared eggplant, and Bengali five-spice fried rice. In 2023, the restaurant had soy-free vegan Christmas dinner meal kits with masala-spiced stuffing, black bean tamale pie, coconut and sweet potato soup, and a winter salad. Cornish hen and pork loin were also available to diners.

The restaurant closed permanently on January 26, 2025.{{Cite web |last=Guzman |first=Dianne de |date=2025-01-09 |title=5 Portland Restaurant and Bar Closures to Know in January |url=https://pdx.eater.com/2025/1/9/24340212/portland-restaurant-bar-closures-january-2025 |access-date=2025-01-10 |website=Eater Portland |language=en}}

Reception

Fodor's said Masala Lab's food "isn't quite like anything even offbeat Portland has ever seen before". In 2022, Michael Russell included Masala Lab in The Oregonian{{'s}} list of Portland's 25 best new restaurants,{{Cite web |last=Russell |first=Michael |date=2022-11-21 |title=Here are Portland's 25 best new restaurants for 2022 |url=https://www.oregonlive.com/dining/2022/11/portlands-25-best-new-restaurants-2022.html |access-date=2024-05-25 |website=The Oregonian |language=en |archive-date=2022-12-19 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221219181458/https://www.oregonlive.com/dining/2022/11/portlands-25-best-new-restaurants-2022.html |url-status=live }} and said the business offered the city's best Indian fusion brunch.{{Cite web |last=Russell |first=Michael |date=2022-12-16 |title=Best of the rest: 11 more restaurants we loved in 2022 |url=https://www.oregonlive.com/dining/2022/12/best-of-the-rest-11-more-restaurants-we-loved-in-2022.html |access-date=2024-05-25 |website=The Oregonian |language=en |archive-date=2023-01-27 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230127081354/https://www.oregonlive.com/dining/2022/12/best-of-the-rest-11-more-restaurants-we-loved-in-2022.html |url-status=live }} He called the restaurant "inventive" in 2023.{{Cite web |last=Russell |first=Michael |date=2023-02-03 |title=Portland restaurants new (and old) mount a brunch revival |url=https://www.oregonlive.com/dining/2023/02/portland-restaurants-new-and-old-mount-a-brunch-revival.html |access-date=2024-05-25 |website=The Oregonian |language=en |archive-date=2023-11-05 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20231105054056/https://www.oregonlive.com/dining/2023/02/portland-restaurants-new-and-old-mount-a-brunch-revival.html |url-status=live }}

Zoe Baillargeon and Janey Wong included the Masala Lab in Eater Portland{{'s}} 2024 overview of recommended eateries for a "real-deal" breakfast in the city, writing: "Masala Lab may serve some of the most intricate breakfast dishes in town, with nuanced layers of flavor and texture." Sararosa Davies included the business in the website's 2024 overview of Portland's "knockout" gluten-free restaurants and bakeries.{{Cite web |last=Davies |first=Sararosa |date=2016-07-14 |title=Portland's Knockout Gluten-Free Restaurants and Bakeries |url=https://pdx.eater.com/maps/best-gluten-free-restaurants-food-carts-bakeries-breweries-portland |access-date=2024-05-25 |website=Eater Portland |language=en |archive-date=2022-05-27 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220527214034/https://pdx.eater.com/maps/best-gluten-free-restaurants-food-carts-bakeries-breweries-portland |url-status=live }}

See also

References

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