Phi Pan Nam Range

{{Short description|Mountain range in Thailand and Laos}}

{{Redirect|Phi Pan Nam|other meanings|Phi Pan Nam (disambiguation)}}

{{Infobox mountain

| name= Phi Pan Nam Range

| other_name=ทิวเขาผีปันน้ำ

| photo= Phi pan nam range-yom river-long district1749.JPG

| photo_caption= The Phi Pan Nam Range and the Yom River in Long District, Phrae Province

| country= {{enum|Thailand|Laos}}

| parent= Thai highlands

| highest= Doi Luang

| elevation_m=1694

| coordinates= {{coord|19|8|04|N|99|45|29|E|type:mountain|format=dms|display=inline}}

| geology= Sandstone and laterite

| age= Triassic

| orogeny=

| length_km= 400

| length_orientation= NE/SW

| width_km= 135

| width_orientation=SE/NW

| range_coordinates= {{coord|18|48|0|N|99|50|30|E|type:mountain|format=dms|display=inline,title}}

| map_image=Phi Pan Nam Range-SE Asia.png

| map_caption=

}}

File:Phrae 100.14743E 18.13585N.jpg picture of the Phi Pan Nam Mountains in Mueang Phrae District showing the deforestation of lowland areas]]

File:Hmong-Ban Phaya Phipak62.JPG, Chiang Rai Province]]

The Phi Pan Nam Range, also Pee Pan Nam,[http://www.tscwa.org/forests/geo_thai.html Thai Society for the Conservation of Wild Animals - Thai Forests; Geography of Thailand] ({{langx|th|ทิวเขาผีปันน้ำ}}, {{IPA|th|tʰīw kʰǎw pʰǐː pān náːm|pron}}) is a {{convert|400|km|0|abbr=on}} long system of mountain ranges in the eastern half of the Thai highlands. The range lies mostly in Thailand, although a small section in the northeast is within Sainyabuli and Bokeo provinces of Laos.

In Thailand the range extends mainly across Chiang Rai, Phayao, Lampang, Phrae, Nan, Uttaradit and Sukhothai Provinces, reaching Tak Province at its southwestern end. The population density of the area is relatively low. Only two sizable towns, Phayao and Phrae, are within the area of the mountain system and both have fewer than 20,000 inhabitants each. Larger towns, like Chiang Rai and Uttaradit, are near the limits of the Phi Pan Nam Range, in the north and in the south, respectively.

Phahonyothin Road, part of the AH2 Highway system, crosses the Phi Pan Nam Range area from north to south, between Tak and Chiang Rai. There are two railway tunnels of the Northern Line across the Phi Pan Nam mountains. Both are on the south side of the range: the 130.2 m Huai Mae Lan Tunnel in Phrae Province and the 362.4 m Khao Phlueng Tunnel in Uttaradit and Phrae Provinces.[http://en.structurae.de/structures/data/index.cfm?id=s0041675 Khao Phlueng Tunnel]

In the mountains north of Thoeng, at the northeast end of the range, Hmong people live in small villages such as Ban Saen Than Sai and Ban Phaya Phripak, the latter on top of a mountain pass.

Geography

The Phi Pan Nam Range is composed of many smaller mountain chains roughly aligned in a north–south direction in its northern part and, further south, in a northeast–southwest direction. These ranges cover an extensive area and are often separated by intermontane basins or lowlands. They end in the west with the Khun Tan Range, in the east with the Luang Prabang Range, and with the Central Plain of Siam in the south. The northern tip is bound by the Mekong River.[http://www1.mod.go.th/heritage/nation/geography/geo4.htm Heritage Thailand, Geography 4] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111007221750/http://www1.mod.go.th/heritage/nation/geography/geo4.htm |date=2011-10-07 }}

There are columnar basalt formations in Mon Hin Kong ({{langx|th|ม่อนหินกอง}}) in an area in the mountains near Na Phun, Wang Chin District, Phrae Province.[http://www.addphrae.com/travel/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A8%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%87-wonderful-mountan-of-colunnar ม่อนเสาหินพิศวง Wonderful Mountain Of Colunnar] {{webarchive|url=https://archive.today/20120717165651/http://www.addphrae.com/travel/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A8%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%87-wonderful-mountan-of-colunnar |date=2012-07-17 }} In Phae Mueang Phi there are mushroom rocks and other bizarre rock formations caused by erosion.[http://www.oceansmile.com/N/Phae/VanaPheamerpee.htm แพะเมืองผี รูปและข้อมูล จ.แพร่]

=Sub-ranges=

The Phi Pan Nam range system is often divided into two physiographic longitudinal sections:

  • Western Phi Pan Nam Range (เทือกเขาผีปันน้ำตะวันตก) or Phi Pan Nam Range proper, in the northwest between the Wang and Yom Rivers.[http://www1.mod.go.th/heritage/nation/geography/geo3.htm Northern Thailand- Geography 3] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120128091643/http://www1.mod.go.th/heritage/nation/geography/geo3.htm |date=2012-01-28 }} Some scholarly works designate the Khun Tan Range as the "Western Phi Pan Nam Range" and this section therefore as the "Central Phi Pan Nam Range".[http://silkwormbooks.com/products/history-of-lanna Sarasawadee Ongsakul, The History of Lan Na]
  • Eastern Phi Pan Nam Range (เทือกเขาผีปันน้ำตะวันออก), also known as "Phlueng Range" (ทิวเขาพลึง) in the southeast between the Yom and the Nan Rivers.{{Cite web |url=http://sgp.undp.org/web/projects/12355/development_of_integrated_farming_for_environment_rehabilitation.html |title=Development of Integrated Farming for Environment Rehabilitation |access-date=2012-01-25 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151123030646/https://sgp.undp.org/web/projects/12355/development_of_integrated_farming_for_environment_rehabilitation.html |archive-date=2015-11-23 |url-status=dead }}

==Mountains==

The highest point is the {{convert|1694|m|ft|0}} high summit known as Doi Luang.[http://static.panoramio.com/photos/original/58256233.jpg Picture of Doi Luang peak][http://www.oknation.net/blog/print.php?id=224234 Doi Luang] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151208112646/http://www.oknation.net/blog/print.php?id=224234 |date=2015-12-08 }} (Thai) It is in the northwestern area of the range near Phayao town, but there are a number of lesser mountains with the name 'Doi Luang' throughout the range. Other noteworthy peaks are:

{{div col|colwidth=22em}}

  • Doi Phu Langka (1,641 m){{cite web|url=http://mapcarta.com/15536178|title=Doi Phu Langka|work=Mapcarta|access-date=12 January 2017}}
  • Doi Chi (1,638 m){{cite web|url=http://mapcarta.com/15539634|title=Doi Chi|work=Mapcarta|access-date=12 January 2017}}
  • Doi Pha Mon at Phu Chi Fa (1,628 m)
  • Doi Pha Tang (1,608 m)[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gg2GV6xbMxE ภูชี้ฟ้า ดอยผาตั้ง (Phu chi fa & Doi pha tang)]
  • Doi Cha Tong (1,603 m)
  • Doi Ku (1,557 m){{cite web|url=http://mapcarta.com/29011924|title=Doi Ku|work=Mapcarta|access-date=12 January 2017}}
  • Doi Yao (1,543 m )
  • Doi Huai Nam Lao (1,544 m){{cite web|url=http://mapcarta.com/29426878|title=Doi Huai Nam Lao|work=Mapcarta|access-date=12 January 2017}}
  • Doi Nang (1,507 m)
  • Phu Chi Fa (1,442 m)
  • Doi Luang, Mae Chai District (1,426 m)
  • Doi Phu Kheng (1,403 m)
  • Doi Luang, Ban Na Fai (1,396 m)
  • Doi Pha Khi Nok (1,365 m){{cite web|url=http://mapcarta.com/29012254|title=Doi Pha Khi Nok|work=Mapcarta|access-date=12 January 2017}}
  • Doi Luang Pae Mueang(1,328 m)
  • Khun Huai Han (1,303 m)
  • Doi Phu Nang (1,202 m)[http://www.dnp.go.th/parkreserve/pictures/npc/npc2.jpg Doi Phu Nang picture] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121109163331/http://www.dnp.go.th/parkreserve/pictures/npc/npc2.jpg |date=2012-11-09 }}
  • Doi Nang (1,195 m){{cite web|url=http://mapcarta.com/15537178|title=Doi Nang|work=Mapcarta|access-date=12 January 2017}}
  • Doi Ian (1,178 m)
  • Doi Khun Mae Loe (1,075 m)
  • Doi Pha Daeng (1,023 m){{cite web|url=http://mapcarta.com/29013032|title=Doi Pha Daeng|work=Mapcarta|access-date=12 January 2017}}
  • Doi Pha Mon(1,013 m)
  • Doi San Klang (938 m)
  • Doi Ngaem (867 m){{cite web|url=http://mapcarta.com/29012244|title=Doi Ngaem|work=Mapcarta|access-date=12 January 2017}}
  • Doi Pui (843 m)
  • Doi Kham, Thoeng District (823 m)
  • Doi San Pan Nam (773 m){{cite web|url=http://mapcarta.com/15535876|title=Doi San Pan Nam|work=Mapcarta|access-date=12 January 2017}}
  • Mon Yao (751 m){{cite web|url=http://mapcarta.com/15534992|title=Mon Yao|work=Mapcarta|access-date=12 January 2017}}
  • Doi Yang Kham (727 m){{cite web|url=http://mapcarta.com/29012108|title=Doi Yang Kham|work=Mapcarta|access-date=12 January 2017}}
  • Doi Pae Luang (651 m){{cite web|url=http://mapcarta.com/15536960|title=Doi Pae Luang|work=Mapcarta|access-date=12 January 2017}}
  • Doi Huai Ha (590 m){{cite web|url=http://mapcarta.com/29012114|title=Doi Huai Ha|work=Mapcarta|access-date=12 January 2017}}
  • Doi Lan (559 m)

{{div col end}}

=Hydrography=

The Phi Pan Nam range of mountains is not as high as neighboring mountain systems. It is, however, significant from the hydrographic point of view. These mountains divide the Mekong from the Chao Phraya watershed and important rivers of Thailand have their source in the Phi Pan Nam area. Its name in Thai "ทิวเขาผีปันน้ำ" roughly means "the mountains of the spirits dividing the waters", 'spirits' (ผี phi) here referring to ancient mountain deities of Thai folklore.

Among the Thai rivers that originate in the Phi Pan Nam Mountains the main ones are the Wang and Yom River, with their tributaries such as the Ngao, flowing towards the Chao Phraya. The Ing and the Lao, a tributary of the Kok River, flow northwards and are part of the Mekong basin. A great number of smaller rivers have their sources in mountains across the range.

The Sirikit Dam is at the southeastern edge of the Phi Pan Nam mountains.

History

There were formerly large teak forests in some areas of the range. However, at the beginning of the 20th century concessions were given to logging companies and the forest cover dwindled dramatically especially in lowland areas between ranges.{{cite news |last1=Wongruang |first1=Piyaporn |title=Living in the ugly shadow of the kaeng sua ten dam |url=https://www.bangkokpost.com/news/local/277284/living-in-the-ugly-shadow-of-the-kaeng-sua-ten-dam |archive-url=https://wayback.archive-it.org/all/20120129064838/http://www.bangkokpost.com/news/local/277284/living-in-the-ugly-shadow-of-the-kaeng-sua-ten-dam |url-status=dead |archive-date=29 January 2012 |access-date=4 April 2019 |work=Bangkok Post |date=29 January 2012 }} Deforestation also has affected areas that were cleared for local agriculture. Often wildfires are deliberately set off by local farmers, as well as by speculators who hire people to set forests on fire in order to claim land title deeds for the areas that have become "degraded forest".{{cite news |last1=Samabuddhi |first1=Kultida |title=PM misses the boat again on northern haze|url=https://www.bangkokpost.com/opinion/opinion/284574/pm-misses-the-boat-again-on-northern-haze |access-date=4 April 2019 |work=Bangkok Post |department=Opinion|date=16 March 2012}}

Owing to the relative isolation of the area there was Communist insurgency in the mountainous forests of the Phi Pan Nam Range during the Cold War. A memorial was erected on 1,118 m high Doi Phaya Phipak (ดอยพญาพิภักดิ์) to commemorate the victims of the battles between troops of the Royal Thai Armed Forces and the insurgents of the Communist Party of Thailand between the 1950s and the 1970s.[http://www.chiangraifocus.com/attractions/details.php?id=18&district=1 Doi Phaya Phipak] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120130162655/http://www.chiangraifocus.com/attractions/details.php?id=18&district=1 |date=2012-01-30 }} There is now a historical site and a forest park at Doi Phaya Phipak, also known as Phaya Phipak.{{Cite web |url=http://www.moohin.com/033/033m018.shtml |title=Phaya Phipak Forest Park |access-date=2012-02-18 |archive-url=https://archive.today/20120911161209/http://www.moohin.com/033/033m018.shtml |archive-date=2012-09-11 |url-status=dead }}

A controversial dam was planned in the central area of the range on the Yom River in Kaeng Suea Ten in 1991 but this project was later abandoned in the face of popular opposition.{{usurped|1=[https://web.archive.org/web/20220326062635/http://www.thailandoutlook.tv/tan/ViewData.aspx?DataID=1046769 The Injustice Case of Kaeng Sua Ten Dam Project]}}{{Cite web |url=http://www.mekonginfo.org/assets/midocs/0002761-planning-cadastre-local-participation-and-the-kaeng-sua-ten-dam-controversy.pdf |title=Local Participation and the Kaeng Sua Ten Dam |access-date=2012-01-26 |archive-date=2014-10-24 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141024035007/http://www.mekonginfo.org/assets/midocs/0002761-planning-cadastre-local-participation-and-the-kaeng-sua-ten-dam-controversy.pdf |url-status=dead }} The debate about the dam, however, resumed in 2011.[https://wayback.archive-it.org/all/20110814052924/http://www.bangkokpost.com/news/politics/251708/floodgates-reopen-in-dam-debate Bangkok Post - Floodgates reopen in dam debate] Two smaller dams on the Yom River may be built instead of the Kaeng Suea Ten mega-dam.{{cite news |last=Wipatayotin|first=Apinya| title=Study to decide Yom River fate |url=http://www.bangkokpost.com/news/local/277399/study-to-decide-yom-river-fate|access-date=4 April 2019 |work=Bangkok Post |date=30 January 2012}}

Ecology

File:Thailand 2006 09 panorama doi pu chee fa range.jpg

Generally the forested areas of the Phi Pan Nam are known for their teak and bamboo forest. The mountain ranges are covered with tropical dry broadleaf forests, including sections of moist evergreen forest, mixed deciduous forest, dry deciduous forest, as well as hill evergreen forest at higher altitudes. There is great biodiversity in these mountains and their few unspoilt valleys, with a wide range of animal and plant species.[http://www.trekthailand.net/north34/index.html Mae Yom on Northern Thailand National Parks] The whole area of the range is part of the Central Indochina dry forests ecoregion.[http://www.eoearth.org/view/article/151019/ Central Indochina dry forests]{{Cite web |url=http://wwf.panda.org/about_our_earth/ecoregions/indochina_dry_forests.cfm |title=WWF - Indochina Dry Forests |access-date=2014-10-22 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121015120824/http://wwf.panda.org/about_our_earth/ecoregions/indochina_dry_forests.cfm |archive-date=2012-10-15 |url-status=dead }}

There are a number of protected areas in the Phi Pan Nam mountains, mostly encompassing mountainous terrain. These are patchily distributed across the range, and the largest national parks are in its central part, roughly around Phayao town. Protected sectors are typically surrounded by agricultural zones, often near roads and villages and thus with vast surfaces under the influence of the edge effect.{{Cite web |url=http://www.protectedplanet.net/sites/Mae_Yom_National_Park |title=Protected Planet - Mae Yom National Park |access-date=2012-02-05 |archive-date=2013-10-24 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131024060731/http://www.protectedplanet.net/sites/Mae_Yom_National_Park |url-status=dead }}

Besides the national parks and wildlife reserves, there are the Huai Tak Teak Biosphere Reserve in Lampang Province[http://www.unesco.org/mabdb/br/brdir/directory/biores.asp?mode=all&code=THA+02 UNESCO - MAB Biosphere Reserves Directory - Huai Tak Teak Biosphere Reserve] and the Phu Langka Forest Park,[http://www.tourismthailand.org/where-to-go/cities-guide/attractions/info-page/destination/phayao/cat/41/attraction/4355/parent/1105/lang/0/ Tourism Thailand - Phu Langka Forest Park]{{dead link|date=March 2018 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }} located in Chiang Kham District and Pong District of Phrae Province. The main attractions of the forest park are Doi Hua Ling, Doi Phu Lang Ka and Doi Phu Nom;[http://www.bangkokpost.com/travel/local-destinations/listing/phu-langka-forest-park/22497/ Phu Langka Forest Park {{!}} Bangkok Post: Travel] the latter is a breast-shaped hill rising in an area of grassland.{{Cite web |url=http://www.thaidphoto.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1697861870&stc=1&d=1289989443 |title=Doi Phu Nom picture |access-date=2012-02-18 |archive-date=2015-02-22 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150222163055/http://www.thaidphoto.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1697861870&stc=1&d=1289989443 |url-status=dead }}

=Flora=

Formerly there were large extensions of teak (Tectona grandis) forests in the range, including the highly appreciated golden teak variety. These forests are now much reduced. Forest fires are common during the dry season.

Some of the other species of trees found in the forests of the mountains are: Afzelia xylocarpa, Ailanthus triphysa, Anisoptera costata, Artocarpus lacucha, Berrya ammonilla, Betula alnoides, Cinnamomum iners, Dalbergia oliveri, Dillenia pentagyna, Dipterocarpus obtusifolius, Dipterocarpus alatus, Dipterocarpus turbinatus, Duabanga grandiflora, Garcinia indica, Hopea odorata, Irvingia malayana, Lagerstroemia loudonii, Lagerstroemia calyculata, Lagerstroemia tomentosa, Lithocarpus densiflorus, Mangifera caloneura, Michelia champaca, Michelia floribunda, Pterocarpus macrocarpus, Schleichera oleosa, Terminalia bellirica, Toona ciliata, Vitex pinnata and Xylia xylocarpa.

File:Khloongkhleeng.jpg|Melastoma malabathricum, {{langx|th|โคลงเคลงขี้นก}} Khlong Khe Long Khi Nok, a flower seasonally carpeting wide areas of grassland on the higher slopes of the range.

File:Sirikitdam 07.JPG|The Phi Pan Nam mountains near the Sirikit Dam. The haze caused by wildfires is prevalent during the dry season

File:Tham Pha Thai National Park1780.JPG|Sign put up by the Thai government by Route 1 near Tham Pha Thai National Park warning against deliberately setting off forest fires in the mountains

=Fauna=

The endangered animal species sheltered by some of the fragmented, although relatively undisturbed Phi Pan Nam forests are the fishing cat, sun bear, Asiatic black bear, Chinese pangolin, Indochinese tiger, sambar deer, gaur, Bengal slow loris, Sunda pangolin, as well as the Asiatic softshell turtle and the big-headed turtle.

There are also Asian elephants in their natural habitat in a few protected areas, such as in the Si Satchanalai National Park. Formerly there were also in the Wiang Ko Sai National Park but there have been no sightings in recent years.{{Cite web |url=http://www.thailandsworld.com/index.cfm?p=920#axzz1mXP12TMn |title=Wiang Kosai National Park - Thailand's World |access-date=2012-03-09 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110225090353/http://www.thailandsworld.com/index.cfm?p=920#axzz1mXP12TMn |archive-date=2011-02-25 |url-status=dead }}

The green peafowl, now rare in the wilderness and threatened by habitat destruction throughout Southeast Asia, breeds in the central mountains of the range from January to March.

Among the other animals, the Indian muntjac, Burmese hare, Indian hare, Indochinese flying squirrel, black giant squirrel, Java mouse-deer, jungle cat, mainland serow, masked palm civet, Asian palm civet, Malayan civet, bamboo rat and northern treeshrew, as well as the Bengal monitor deserve mention.[http://www.tourismthailand.org/where-to-go/cities-guide/attractions/info-page/destination/phayao/cat/33/attraction/4350/ TourismThailand.org - Doi Phu Nang National Park]{{dead link|date=March 2018 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}

A variety of birds are found in the range such as the blue-winged siva, white-rumped shama, scaly-breasted munia, black bulbul, blue-throated barbet, pin-striped tit-babbler, blue-bearded bee-eater, crested kingfisher, sooty-headed bulbul, coppersmith barbet, great hornbill, chestnut-headed bee-eater and the red-billed blue magpie.[http://www.bokkilden.no/SamboWeb/produkt.do?produktId=1582660&rom=MP Craig Robson, Birds of Thailand]

File:Pavo muticus - Hai Hong Karni.jpg|The endangered green peafowl. Its preferred habitat is dry deciduous forest close to water and away from human disturbance.{{Cite journal|last=Brickle |first=Nick W.|journal=Biological Conservation|year=2002|volume=105|issue=2|title=Habitat use, predicted distribution and conservation of green peafowl (Pavo muticus) in Dak Lak Province, Vietnam|pages=189–197|doi=10.1016/S0006-3207(01)00182-3}}

File:Ratufa bicolor.jpg|The Black giant squirrel (Ratufa bicolor), {{langx|th|พญากระรอกดำ}}.

=Protected areas=

{{div col|colwidth=22em}}

{{div col end}}

Ranges and features of the system

File:Phayao lake sunset.JPG|The Phi Pan Nam Range rising behind Phayao Lake

File:Laplae 19.JPG|The range at its southern end in Laplae District

File:Ghost Canyon, Phae Muang Phi, Northern Thailand.jpg|Phae Mueang Phi ("Ghost Canyon") near Phrae

File:ภูชี้ฟ้า 501.jpg|Cliff in the Phu Chi Fa area, Chiang Rai Province, at the northern end of the range near the Lao border

File:Panorama Mae Tha valley Lampang Province.jpg|Mae Tha District, Lampang, in the western fringes of the range

File:Chiang Saen town Mekhong.jpg|The northeastern tip of the range, in Chiang Saen District and Chiang Khong District, is bound by the Mekong river

File:Panorama over Phi Pan Nam Range January 2014.jpg|"Autumn" colors during the cool, dry season in Na Muen District, Nan Province

File:2014 Panorama Phi Pan Nam Range east.jpg|The eastern flank of the range, in Nan Province

File:2014 Road 1148 Nan Phayao.jpg|Karst formations from Rte 1148, Song Khwae District, Nan Province

See also

Further reading

  • [https://books.google.com/books?id=p42GnZ5nLHYC Google Books, The Physical Geography of Southeast Asia]

References

{{reflist|30em}}