Sorato Anraku
{{Short description|Japanese competition climber}}
{{Infobox climber
| name = Sorato Anraku
| image = 2024 Summer Olympics otin 44 (Sorato Anraku).jpg
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| caption = Anraku at the 2024 Summer Olympics
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| nationality = Japanese
| birth_date = {{Birth date and age|2006|11|14}}
| birth_place = Yachiyo, Chiba, Japan
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| education = Yachiyo High School
| occupation =
| height = 168 cm
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| typeofclimber = {{flatlist|
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| knownfor = First male to win both the overall bouldering and lead IFSC World Cup titles in the same season. Did so in his debut season.
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{{MedalCount
| World Cup | 10 | 4 | 3
}}
{{MedalSport | Men's competition climbing }}
{{MedalCountry | {{JPN}} }}
{{MedalCompetition|Olympic Games}}
{{MedalSilver|2024 Paris|Combined}}
{{MedalCompetition | World Championships }}
{{MedalSilver | 2023 Bern | Lead }}
{{MedalCompetition | World Cup (Overall) }}
{{Medal|Winner | 2023 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Winner | 2023 | Lead }}
{{Medal|Winner | 2024 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Third | 2024 | Lead }}
{{MedalCompetition | World Cup (Event) }}
{{Medal|Gold | Salt Lake City 2025 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Gold | Curitiba 2025 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Gold | Wujiang 2025 | Lead }}
{{Medal|Gold | Keqiao 2025 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Gold | Seoul 2024 | Lead }}
{{Medal|Gold | Salt Lake 2024 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Gold | Wujiang 2023 | Lead }}
{{Medal|Gold | Koper 2023 | Lead }}
{{Medal|Gold | Briançon 2023 | Lead }}
{{Medal|Gold | Innsbruck 2023 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Silver | Prague 2025 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Silver | Koper 2024 | Lead }}
{{Medal|Silver | Keqiao 2024 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Silver | Salt Lake 2023 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Bronze | Innsbruck 2024 | Bouldering }}
{{Medal|Bronze | Wujiang 2024 | Lead }}
{{Medal|Bronze | Chamonix 2023 | Lead }}
{{MedalCompetition | Asian Championships }}
{{Medal|Gold|2024|Bouldering}}
{{MedalCompetition | Asian Games }}
{{MedalGold | 2022 | Combined }}
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| updated =
}}
Sorato Anraku (安楽 宙斗, Anraku Sorato, born November 14, 2006){{cite web| url=https://olympics.com/en/paris-2024/athlete/sorato-anraku_1892022?utm_source=bios&utm_medium=if_noc_widget |title=ANRAKU Sorato |access-date=28 August 2024 |work=Olympics}} is a Japanese rock climber who specializes in competition lead climbing and competition bouldering. In 2023, Anraku became the first climber to win both the Lead Overall World Cup and Boulder Overall World Cup, doing so in his debut senior season.{{Cite web |last= |first= |date=2023-09-26 |title=Sorato Anraku and Ai Mori win as Japan dominates lead World Cup meet |url=https://www.japantimes.co.jp/sports/2023/09/26/more-sports/anraku-mori-sport-climbing-lead-world-cup/ |access-date=2023-10-12 |website=The Japan Times |language=en}} He also won the gold medal in the combined boulder and lead event at the 2022 Asian Games, held in October 2023.{{Cite news |last=Mikkelsen |first=Sebastian |date=October 6, 2023 |title=Asian Games 2023: Japan's 16-year-old Anraku Sorato strikes gold in men's boulder & lead competition |work=Olympics |url=https://olympics.com/en/news/asian-games-2023-anraku-sorato-gold-in-men-s-boulder-lead-competition-results |url-status= |access-date=October 11, 2023}} He won the silver medal in the combined boulder and lead event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.{{Cite web |title=Sport Climbing Men's Boulder & Lead. Individual Medals and Ranking |url=https://olympics.com/en/paris-2024/medals-and-ranking/sport-climbing/men-s-boulder-and-lead |access-date=2024-08-09 |website=Paris Olympics 2024}}
Climbing career
Before 2023, Anraku competed in youth international competition climbing.
In 2023, Anraku made his senior international competition climbing debut, opening the year with a fifth-place finish in bouldering at the IFSC Climbing World Cup in Hachioji. He went on to win his first World Cup medal by placing second in the bouldering discipline at the Salt Lake City World Cup in May.{{Cite web |last=McCarvel |first=Nick |date=22 May 2023 |title=Sport climbing: Narasaki Tomoa soars to boulder title at Salt Lake World Cup, Veddriq Leonardo wins in speed |url=https://olympics.com/en/news/sport-climbing-narasaki-tomoa-boulder-title-salt-lake-world-cup |access-date=12 October 2023 |website=Olympics}} This was followed by his first World Cup gold medal at the Innsbruck World Cup in June, where he was also given the overall title for the 2023 Bouldering World Cup season.{{Cite web |last=Pardy |first=Aaron |date=2023-06-17 |title=Japan Continues to Dominate Men's Boulder World Cup - Sorato Anraku Wins 2023 Season |url=https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/japan-continues-to-dominate-mens-boulder-world-cup-sorato-anraku-wins-2023-season/ |access-date=2023-10-12 |website=Gripped Magazine |language=en-US}}{{Cite web |title=INNSBRUCK CROWNS ANRAKU SORATO AS NEW BOULDER KING |url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/979-innsbruck-crowns-anraku-sorato-as-new-boulder-king |archive-url=http://web.archive.org/web/20231128092157/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/979-innsbruck-crowns-anraku-sorato-as-new-boulder-king |archive-date=2023-11-28 |access-date=2023-10-12 |website=www.ifsc-climbing.org}}
He went on to claim his first World Cup medal in lead climbing with a bronze in Chamonix in July, followed by his first gold medal in lead at the Briançon World Cup later in July. At the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Bern in August, he won a silver medal in lead behind Jakob Schubert.{{Cite web |title=ANRAKU MAKES HISTORY AS PILZ COMPLETES GOAL OF LEAD SERIES WIN |url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/1092-anraku-makes-history-as-pilz-completes-goal-of-lead-series-win |access-date=2023-10-12 |website=www.ifsc-climbing.org}}{{Cite web |last=de Villiers |first=Ockert |date=10 September 2023 |title=IFSC Sport Climbing World Cup Koper 2023: Janja Garnbret and Anraku Sorato wins lead titles |url=https://olympics.com/en/news/ifsc-sport-climbing-world-cup-koper-2023-janja-garnbret-and-anraku-sorato-wins-lead-titles |access-date=12 October 2023 |website=Olympics}}{{Cite web |last= |first= |date=2023-08-07 |title=Ai Mori captures Japan's first lead world championship |url=https://www.japantimes.co.jp/sports/2023/08/07/more-sports/mori-wins-world-title/ |access-date=2023-10-12 |website=The Japan Times |language=en}} He followed this up with two more first-place finishes at the Koper and Wujiang World Cups, both in September, following which he was also given the overall title for the 2023 Lead World Cup season.{{Cite web |last=Mikkelsen |first=Sebastian |date=24 September 2023 |title=Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Wujiang: Japan dominates final event, as Mori Ai and Anraku Sorato claim lead titles |url=https://olympics.com/en/news/sport-climbing-world-cup-2023-wujiang-lead-final-japan-mori-ai-anraku-sorato |access-date=12 October 2023 |website=Olympics}} In October, shortly after his performance in Wujiang, he also won gold in the men's combined sport climbing event at the 2022 Asian Games in Hangzhou, in his Asian Games debut.{{Cite web |title=Japan teen Anraku wins Asiad Men's Combined Sport Climbing_The 19th Asian Games Hangzhou |url=https://www.hangzhou2022.cn/En/presscenter/spotnews/latestnews/202310/t20231007_73808.shtml |access-date=2023-10-12 |website=www.hangzhou2022.cn}} He participated in the 2023 Asian Sport Climbing Olympic Qualifier, held in Jakarta in November, where he placed first in the men's boulder and lead competition.{{Cite web |date=2023-11-11 |title=IFSC Asian Qualifier: Anraku Sorato and Zhang Yuetong win boulder and lead titles in Jakarta - Results |url=https://olympics.com/en/news/ifsc-asian-qualifier-speed-climbing-anraku-sorato-zhang-yuetong-paris-2024-quotas-results |access-date=2023-11-11 |website=olympics.com}} This qualified him for the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris, where he won silver behind Toby Roberts.
Rankings
= [[IFSC Climbing World Cup|World Cup]]=
class="wikitable" style="text-align: center"
! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | Discipline ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | 2023 ! style="background: #b0e0e6" |2024 |
align="left" | Lead
| style="background: Gold" | 1 | style="background: #cc9966" | 3 |
align="left" | Bouldering
| style="background: Gold" | 1 | style="background: Gold" | 1 |
align="left" | Bouldering & Lead
| style="background: Gold" | 1 | style="background: Silver" | 2 |
= [[IFSC Climbing World Championships|World Championships]]=
class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"
! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | Discipline ! style="background: #b0e0e6" | Bern |
align="left" | Lead
| style="background: Silver" | 2 |
align="left" | Bouldering
| 4 |
align="left" | Bouldering & Lead
| 4 |
= [[IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships|World Youth Championships]]=
class="wikitable" style="text-align: center;"
! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | Discipline ! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2021 ! style="background: #b0e0e6;" | 2022 |
align="left" | Bouldering
| style="background: Silver" | 2 | style="background: #cc9966" | 3 |
align="left | Lead
| style="background: Gold" | 1 | style="background: Gold" | 1 |
= [[Climbing Japan Cup|Japan Cup]]=
class="wikitable" style="text-align: center"
! style="background: #b0e0e6" | Discipline ! style="background: #b0e0e6" |2019 ! style="background: #b0e0e6" |2022 ! style="background: #b0e0e6" |2023 ! style="background: #b0e0e6" |2024 ! style="background: #b0e0e6" |2025 |
align="left" | Lead
| 60 | 9 | 7 | 12 | style="background: gold" | 1 |
align="left" | Bouldering
| 67 | 33 | 7 | 6 | style="background: gold" | 1 |
align="left" | Bouldering & Lead
| - | style="background: gold" | 1 | style="background: gold" | 1 | - | - |
Number of medals at the IFSC Climbing World Cup
= Bouldering =
class="wikitable" style="text-align:center;" | ||||
width = "55" | Season
! width = "55" style="background: gold;" | Gold ! width = "55" style="background: silver;"| Silver ! width = "55" style="background: #cc9966;"| Bronze ! width = "55" | Total | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|
2023 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2024 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 |
2025 | 3 | 1 | 4 | |
Total | 5 | 3 | 1 | 9 |
= Lead =
class="wikitable" style="text-align:center;" | ||||
width = "55" | Season
! width = "55" style="background: gold;" | Gold ! width = "55" style="background: silver;"| Silver ! width = "55" style="background: #cc9966;"| Bronze ! width = "55" | Total | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|
2023 | 3 | 1 | 4 | |
2024 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 |
2025 | 1 | 1 | ||
Total | 5 | 1 | 2 | 8 |
See also
References
{{reflist|2}}
External links
{{Climber links |ifsc_2020=13040 |ukc= sorato-anraku-81541 |instagram=anraku_sorato }}
- [https://www.jma-climbing.org/athlete/profile/sorato-anraku/ JMSCA profile] {{In lang|Ja}}
{{DEFAULTSORT:Anraku, Sorato}}
Category:Japanese rock climbers
Category:IFSC Climbing World Cup overall medalists
Category:IFSC Climbing World Championships medalists
Category:Sportspeople from Chiba Prefecture
Category:Japanese competition climbers
Category:Sport climbers at the 2022 Asian Games
Category:Sport climbers at the 2024 Summer Olympics
Category:Asian Games gold medalists for Japan
Category:Asian Games medalists in sport climbing
Category:Medalists at the 2022 Asian Games
Category:Olympic sport climbers for Japan
Category:Olympic silver medalists for Japan
Category:Olympic medalists in sport climbing