Vivienne Westwood#Active Resistance manifesto
{{Short description|British fashion designer (1941–2022)}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=December 2022}}
{{Use British English|date=December 2022}}
{{Infobox fashion designer
| honorific_prefix = Dame
| name = Vivienne Westwood
| honorific-suffix = {{post-nominals|country=GBR|DBE|RDI|FRSA|size=100%}}
| image = Vivienne Westwood by Mattia Passeri.jpg
| caption = Westwood in 2008
| birth_name = Vivienne Isabel Swire
| birth_date = {{Birth date|df=y|1941|4|8}}
| birth_place = Hollingworth, Cheshire, England
| death_date = {{Death date and age|df=y|2022|12|29|1941|4|8}}
| death_place = Clapham, London, England
| occupation = {{hlist|Primary school teacher{{cite web |url=https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-64122181 |title=Vivienne Westwood: Tributes for 'Queen of British Fashion' after her death |author=Andre Rhoden-Paul, Adam Durbin |date=30 December 2022 |publisher=BBC News |access-date=30 December 2022 }}{{cite web |url=http://www.catwalkyourself.com/fashion-biographies/vivienne-westwood-biography/ |title=Vivienne Westwood |last=Dudbridge |first=Saxony |website=catwalkyourself.com |access-date=30 December 2022 }}|fashion designer|businesswoman|activist}}
| alma_mater = University of Westminster
| label_name = Vivienne Westwood
| awards = British Fashion Designer of the Year (1990, 1991, 2006)
| spouse = {{unbulleted list
| {{marriage|Derek Westwood|1962|1965|end=divorced}}
| {{marriage|Malcolm McLaren|1967|1980|end=divorced}}{{cite web |url=https://www.grunge.com/1152322/inside-vivienne-westwood-and-malcolm-mclarens-abusive-relationship/ |title=Inside Vivienne Westwood And Malcolm McLaren's Abusive Relationship |last=McDuffee |first=Allen |date=30 December 2022 |website=grunge.com |publisher= |access-date=31 December 2022 |quote=}}{{cite web |url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/people/vivienne-westwood-malcolm-mclaren-rebellious-relationship-inspired/ |title=Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren: The rebellious duo that inspired a generation of punks |last=Gorman |first=Paul |date=30 December 2022 |website=telegraph.co.uk |publisher= |access-date=31 December 2022 |quote=}}
| {{marriage|Andreas Kronthaler|1993}}{{cite web |url=https://www.standard.co.uk/insider/style/andreas-kronthaler-on-vivienne-westwood-marriage-bella-hadid-and-brexit-a4250396.html |title=Andreas Kronthaler talks marriage to Vivienne Westwood, Brexit and climate change |last=Cooper |first=Geoff K. |date=1 October 2019 |website=standard.co.uk |publisher= |access-date=31 December 2022 |quote=}}
}}
| children = 2, including Joseph Corré
}}
Dame Vivienne Isabel Westwood ({{nee|Swire}}; 8 April 1941 – 29 December 2022) was an English fashion designer and businesswoman, largely responsible for bringing modern punk and new wave fashions into the mainstream.{{cite web|url=http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/vivw/hd_vivw.htm|last=Bell-Price|first=Shannon|title=Vivienne Westwood (born 1941) and the Postmodern Legacy of Punk Style Source: Vivienne Westwood (born 1941) and the Postmodern Legacy of Punk Style|date=October 2004 |publisher=Metmuseum.org|access-date=30 October 2010}} In 2022, Sky Arts ranked her the 4th most influential artist in Britain of the last 50 years.{{cite web|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/music/news/50-influential-artists-britain-david-bowie-b2142923.html|first=Megan |last=Graye|title=50 most influential artists in Britain revealed: David Bowie, Steve McQueen and Russell T Davies among top spots|work=The Independent|date=11 August 2022|access-date=2023-01-22}}
Westwood came to public notice when she made clothes for the boutique that she and Malcolm McLaren ran on King's Road, which became known as Sex. Their ability to synchronise clothing and music shaped the 1970s UK punk scene, which included McLaren's band, the Sex Pistols. She viewed punk as a way of "seeing if one could put a spoke in the system".{{cite magazine |last1=Adams |first1=William Lee |title=Vivienne Westwood – All-TIME 100 Fashion Icons – TIME |url=https://content.time.com/time/specials/packages/article/0,28804,2110513_2110512_2110755,00.html |magazine=Time |access-date=21 July 2020 |date=2 April 2012}}
Westwood opened four shops in London and eventually expanded throughout Britain and the world, selling a varied range of merchandise, some of which promoted her political causes such as the Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament, climate change and civil rights groups.{{cite web |title=Our Approach |url=https://www.viviennewestwood.com/en/our-approach/ |publisher=viviennewestwood.com |access-date=4 February 2022}}{{cite web |last1=Kristen |first1=Bateman |title=Vivienne Westwood Is the Original Riot Grrrl |url=https://www.lofficielusa.com/fashion/vivienne-westwood-interview-punk-fashion-climate-change |publisher=L'Officiel |access-date=4 February 2022 |date=8 March 2018}}
Life and career
=Early years=
Westwood was born in Hollingworth, Cheshire,{{Cite web|url=https://www.showstudio.com/news/the-vivienne-westwood-family-return-home-for-tintwistle-campaign|title=The Vivienne Westwood Family Return Home for Tintwistle Campaign |website=www.showstudio.com}}{{cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=-KptFTtpC3QC&dq=%22vivienne+westwood%22+Millbrook,+Hollingworth&pg=PT13 |title= Vivienne Westwood: An Unfashionable Life|last=Mulvagh |first=Jane |publisher=HarperCollins |year=2013 |isbn=978-0007-5151-27}} on 8 April 1941.{{Cite web|url=https://www.biography.com/history-culture/vivienne-westwood|title=Vivienne Westwood - Clothes, Career & Life|date=25 May 2021|website=Biography}}{{cite news|author=Susannah Frankel|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/news/people/profiles/meet-the-grande-dame-of-glossop-743124.html|title=Meet the grande dame of Glossop|work=The Independent|date=20 October 1999|access-date=30 March 2010|location=London, England}} She grew up in nearby Tintwistle, and was the daughter of Gordon Swire and Dora Swire (née Ball), who had married two years previously, two weeks after the outbreak of the Second World War.{{cite news|author=Nick Barratt|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/features/3631589/Family-detective.html |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220112/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/features/3631589/Family-detective.html |archive-date=12 January 2022 |url-access=subscription |url-status=live|title=Family detective|work=The Daily Telegraph|date=24 February 2007|access-date=30 March 2010|location=London, England}}{{cbignore}} At the time of Vivienne's birth, her father was employed as a storekeeper in an aircraft factory; he had previously worked as a greengrocer.
In 1958, her family moved to Harrow, Greater London. Westwood took a jewellery and silversmith course at Harrow Art School (now part of the University of Westminster){{cite web |date=24 September 2015 |title=Vivienne Westwood chooses University of Westminster for London Fashion Week catwalk show |url=https://www.westminster.ac.uk/news/vivienne-westwood-chooses-university-of-westminster-for-london-fashion-week-catwalk-show |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191102004257/https://www.westminster.ac.uk/news/vivienne-westwood-chooses-university-of-westminster-for-london-fashion-week-catwalk-show |archive-date=2 November 2019 |access-date=1 November 2019 |publisher=University of Westminster}} but left after one term, saying: "I didn't know how a working-class girl like me could possibly make a living in the art world".{{cite web |title=Vivienne Westwood – The Early Years |url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1231_vivienne_westwood/text_panel_r1_01.html |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110108102427/https://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1231_vivienne_westwood/text_panel_r1_01.html |archive-date=8 January 2011 |access-date=30 March 2010 |publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum}} After taking a job in a factory and studying at a teacher-training college, she became a primary-school teacher. During this period, she created her own jewellery, which she sold at a stall on Portobello Road.
In 1962, she met Derek Westwood, an apprentice at the Hoover factory, in Harrow.{{cite news|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/news/people/profiles/vivienne-westwood-disgracefully-yours-the-queen-mother-of-fashion-178866.html|title=Vivienne Westwood: Disgracefully yours, the Queen Mother of Fashion|work=The Independent|date=2 June 2002|access-date=31 March 2010|location=London, England}} They married on 21 July 1962; Westwood made her own wedding dress. In 1963, she gave birth to a son, Benjamin.
=Malcolm McLaren=
Westwood's marriage to Derek ended after she met Malcolm McLaren. Westwood and McLaren moved to Thurleigh Court in Clapham, where their son Joseph Corré was born in 1967.{{cite news|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/news/people/profiles/joe-correacute-and-serena-rees-sex-and-the-city-649844.html|work=The Independent|title=Joe Corré and Serena Rees: Sex and the City|date=29 July 2002|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100412135859/http://www.independent.co.uk/news/people/profiles/joe-correacute-and-serena-rees-sex-and-the-city-649844.html |archive-date=12 April 2010}} Westwood continued to teach until 1971 and also created clothes which McLaren designed. McLaren became manager of the punk band the Sex Pistols, and subsequently the two garnered attention as the band wore Westwood's and McLaren's designs.{{cite news |title=Dame Vivienne Westwood obituary |url=https://www.thetimes.com/uk/obituaries/article/dame-vivienne-westwood-obituary-nt0fvdrvf |work=The Times |date=30 December 2022}}
=Punk era=
Westwood was one of the architects of the punk fashion phenomenon of the 1970s, saying "I was messianic about punk, seeing if one could put a spoke in the system in some way". Westwood's emergence as a designer who made garments that reflected the economic, social, and political contexts of 1970s Britain coincided with a disillusioned youth, who developed a unique style of dress and musical expression which was instantly identifiable through its aesthetic and sound.{{Cite web |last=Price |first=Authors: Shannon |title=Vivienne Westwood (born 1941) and the Postmodern Legacy of Punk Style {{!}} Essay {{!}} The Metropolitan Museum of Art {{!}} Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History |url=https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/vivw/hd_vivw.htm |access-date=2023-07-17 |website=The Met's Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History |date=October 2004 |language=en}}
Westwood's boutique, originally managed with McLaren, was a meeting place for early members of the London punk scene. The boutique regularly changed names and interior design through the 1970s to fit with collections and design inspirations. It remains in its original location at 430 Kings Road, Chelsea, London (under the name Worlds End since 1980, following a short period of closure in the 1980s) to this day.
McLaren and Westwood were keen entrepreneurs, and their designs sold in their boutique – named Let It Rock, Too Fast To Live Too Young To Die, Sex, and subsequently Seditionaries – helped to define and market the punk look at the exact moment that it exploded in popularity on the streets of London.{{Cite web |last=Price |first=Authors: Shannon |title=Vivienne Westwood (born 1941) and the Postmodern Legacy of Punk Style {{!}} Essay {{!}} The Metropolitan Museum of Art {{!}} Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History |url=https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/vivw/hd_vivw.html |access-date=2023-04-01 |website=The Met's Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History |date=October 2004 |language=en}} Westwood's designs during the Punk Era and thereafter were informed by historicism; the V&A describing Westwood as "a meticulous researcher".{{Cite web |title=Vivienne Westwood: a taste for the past · V&A |url=https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/vivienne-westwood-a-taste-for-the-past |access-date=2023-07-17 |website=Victoria and Albert Museum |language=en}} Westwood began challenging gender norms and promoting experimentation in her designs, which at the outset were created in collaboration with McLaren.
Initially, Westwood created garments referencing the dress of the 1950s Teddy Boys, which were worn by McLaren. Upon opening Let It Rock in 1971, the first incarnation of Westwood and McLaren's boutique, early creations for the shop incorporated such influences reminiscent of the youth subculture fashions of the 1950s.{{Cite web |title=The Story So Far |url=https://blog.viviennewestwood.com/the-story-so-far/ |access-date=2023-07-17 |website=Vivienne Westwood |language=en-US}} Inspired by the rebellious nature of the 1950s youth, Let It Rock referenced the clothing, music, and décor of the immediate postwar era.
In 1972, Let It Rock was refashioned into Too Fast To Live Too Young To Die, in homage to the death of James Dean. Though design references for garments retailed under Too Fast To Live Too Young To Die focussed on the rocker aesthetic of the 1960s, the boutique still sold Teddy Boy inspired garments under the Let It Rock label.{{Cite web |last=AnOther |date=2022-12-30 |title=The Many Lives of Vivienne Westwood's Worlds End Shop |url=https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/8672/clothes-for-heroes-story-of-vivienne-westwoods-worlds-end-shop-sex-kings-road |access-date=2023-07-17 |website=AnOther |language=en}} The new politically leaning design inspirations for Too Fast To Live Too Young To Die were conveyed through Westwood's sleeveless T-shirts, bearing various statements such as ‘PERV’ and ‘ROCK’, created using a combination of safety pins, chicken bones, and glitter glue.
Two years later, in 1974, Westwood and McLaren's boutique was re-modelled, and reopened as Sex. Pieces sold in Sex were intentionally abrasive and challenging, with designs grounded in fetish and sado-masochism, seeking to provoke a comfortable middle class and inspire young punks into political action by challenging the status quo.{{Cite web |author=Scottie Andrew |title=How Vivienne Westwood dressed the Sex Pistols and shaped punk |url=https://www.cnn.com/style/article/vivienne-westwood-punk-fashion-sex-pistols-cec/index.html |access-date=2023-04-01 |website=CNN |date=30 December 2022 |language=en}} Garments retailed at Sex included skirts and dresses made from rubber as well as t-shirts with pornographic material printed on them.{{Cite web |title=Vivienne Westwood: punk, new romantic and beyond · V&A |url=https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/vivienne-westwood-punk-new-romantic-and-beyond |access-date=2023-07-17 |website=Victoria and Albert Museum |language=en}}{{Cite web |title=Westwood [née Swire], Vivienne |url=https://www.oxfordartonline.com/groveart/display/10.1093/gao/9781884446054.001.0001/oao-9781884446054-e-7002081175 |access-date=2024-03-17 |website=Grove Art Online |date=2009 |language=en |doi=10.1093/gao/9781884446054.article.t2081175 |last1=Deihl |first1=Nancy |isbn=978-1-884446-05-4 }} The clothes often had large intentional rips in them and sizeable zippers incorporated into the garments.
Sex became a meeting point at the centre of the punk scene, and transformed into Seditionaries in 1976. Clothing retailed at Seditionaries (Seditionaries: Clothes for Heroes) retained the familiar references of Sex, including historicism, the challenging of gender norms, and fetish.{{Cite book |title=Fashion: The Ultimate Book of Costume and Style |publisher=Dorling Kindersley Ltd |year=2012 |isbn=978-1-4053-9879-4 |editor-last=Hennessy |editor-first=Kathryn |edition=1st |location=London |pages=390}} However, Seditionaries pieces were made from different cloths and fibres. The development of Westwood signatures – bondage trousers covered with straps to restrict, ‘unravelling’ loose-knit jumpers made of mohair, and long-sleeved tops fashioned from soft muslins, which featured graphic screen printed designs and fastenings to the sleeves to give the effect of a straight-jacket – during this period quickly became archetypal punk staples.
Westwood also inspired the style of punk icons, such as Viv Albertine, who wrote in her memoir, "Vivienne and Malcolm use clothes to shock, irritate and provoke a reaction but also to inspire change. Mohair jumpers, knitted on big needles, so loosely that you can see all the way through them, T-shirts slashed and written on by hand, seams and labels on the outside, showing the construction of the piece; these attitudes are reflected in the music we make. It's OK to not be perfect, to show the workings of your life and your mind in your songs and your clothes."{{Cite book|title=Clothes, clothes, clothes : music, music, music : boys, boys, boys : a memoir|last=Albertine, Viv, 1954–|date=25 November 2014|isbn=9781250065995|edition= First U.S.|location=New York, N.Y.|pages=130–131|oclc=886381785}}
File:1981 Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren dress and sash, Pirates collection.jpg hand screen-printed cotton dress and sash, Pirate collection, 1981. Museum of Art Rhode Island ,Design, tl 2008-2.]]
Westwood was disenchanted with the direction that adoptees had taken punk in, many of them uninterested in punk's political values, viewing the style of the movement as a marketing opportunity instead of a medium for radical change; with the dissolution of the Sex Pistols, Westwood's inspiration for her eponymous line shifted instead to the 18th century. She was particularly influenced by Pirates and the Incroyables and merveilleuses a radical movement amongst nobles who had survived the French Revolution which referenced the guillotine to which many had lost family members.{{cite news | url=https://www.lemonde.fr/en/obituaries/article/2022/12/31/vivienne-westwood-british-designer-and-activist-dies-age-81_6009825_15.html | title=Vivienne Westwood, British designer and activist, dies age 81 | newspaper=Le Monde.fr | date=31 December 2022 }}
=Fashion collections=
Westwood's designs were independent and represented a statement of her own values. She collaborated on occasion with Gary Ness, who assisted Westwood with inspirations and titles for her collections.{{cite journal|last1=O'Neill|first1=Alistair|title=Exhibition Review: Vivienne Westwood: 34 Years in Fashion|journal=Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture|date=21 April 2015|pages= 381–386}}
McLaren and Westwood's first fashion collection to be shown to the media and potential international buyers was Pirate, combining 18th and 19th century dress, British history and textiles with African prints.{{Cite web |title=Post-modernism in fashion |url=https://www.oxfordartonline.com/groveart/display/10.1093/gao/9781884446054.001.0001/oao-9781884446054-e-7002082725 |access-date=2024-03-17 |website=Grove Art Online |date=2009 |language=en |doi=10.1093/gao/9781884446054.article.t2082725 |last1=Deihl |first1=Nancy |isbn=978-1-884446-05-4 }} This was the first time in which Westwood explored her inspiration of historic sources in current day couture, the Pirate runway had featured both rap and an array of ethnic music. Subsequently, their partnership, which was underlined by the fact that both their names appeared on all labelling, produced collections in Paris and London with the thematic titles Savages (shown late 1981), Buffalo/Nostalgia Of Mud (shown spring 1982), Punkature (shown late 1982), Witches (shown early 1983) and Worlds End 1984 (later renamed Hypnos, shown late 1983).{{cite web|url=https://www.viviennewestwood.com/history/early-years|title=Vivienne Westwood: the early years|access-date=21 September 2014|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141215223730/http://www.viviennewestwood.com/history/early-years|archive-date=15 December 2014}} After the partnership with McLaren was dissolved, Westwood showed one more collection under the Worlds End label: Clint Eastwood (late 1984–early 1985).{{Cite book|last=Vermorel|first=Fred|title=Vivienne Westwood : fashion, perversity and the sixties laid bare.|publisher=Overlook|year=1996|isbn=9780879516918|location=Woodstock, N.Y.|pages=94}}File:Vivienne Westwood Mini Crini.jpgShe dubbed the period 1981–85 "New Romantic" (during which time she created the famous look of the band Adam and the Ants){{cite web |title=Why the Swagger of Vivienne Westwood's 1981 Pirate Collection Resonates 40 Years On |url=https://www.vogue.com/article/the-pirate-look-in-fashion-1981-2021 |website=Vogue |publisher=Condé Nast |access-date=5 January 2023 |date=17 May 2021}} and 1988–91 as "The Pagan Years" during which "Vivienne's heroes changed from punks and ragamuffins to Tatler girls wearing clothes that parodied the upper class". From 1985 to 1987, Westwood took inspiration from the ballet Petrushka to design the mini-crini, an abbreviated version of the Victorian crinoline.{{cite web|last1=Staff|title=Vivienne Westwood designs|url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/v/vivienne-westwood-designs|publisher=Victoria and Albert Museum|access-date=5 June 2015}} Its mini-length, bouffant silhouette inspired the puffball skirts widely presented by more established designers such as Christian Lacroix.{{cite book|last1=Evans|first1=Caroline|editor1-last=Breward|editor1-first=Christopher|editor2-last=Ehrman|editor2-first=Edwina|editor3-last=Evans|editor3-first=Caroline|title=The London look: fashion from street to catwalk |date=2004 |page=149|publisher=Yale University Press/Museum of London|location=New Haven, CT|isbn=9780300103991|chapter=Cultural Capital 1976-2000}} The mini-crini was described in 1989 as a combination of two conflicting ideals – the crinoline, representing a "mythology of restriction and encumbrance in woman's dress", and the miniskirt, representing an "equally dubious mythology of liberation".{{cite book|last1=Evans|first1=Caroline|last2=Thornton|first2=Minna|title=Women and Fashion: A New Look|date=1989|publisher=Quartet Books |location=London, England|isbn=9780704326910|pages=[https://archive.org/details/womenfashionnewl00evan/page/148 148–50]|url-access=registration|url=https://archive.org/details/womenfashionnewl00evan/page/148}} Westwood continued her research in fashion history by studying garments found in museum collections, which are evident through her incorporations of neck ruffs, corsets, bustles, breeches, and paniers in her various collections. Works from the artists Jean-Antione Watteau, Anthony van Dyck, and François Boucher have been used as inspiration for several pieces of Westwood's garments including scarves, corsets, and leggings.
For Autumn-Winter 1987/88, Westwood showcased the '
Following her death, The Harris Tweed Authority released the following statement: {{Cite web |last=domhnall |date=2022-12-31 |title=In memory of Vivienne Westwood |url=https://www.harristweed.org/journal/vivienne-westwood/ |access-date=2024-05-22 |website=The Harris Tweed Authority |language=en-US}}
{{Blockquote|text=In the late 1980’s Vivienne Westwood commenced use of a logo which, we consider, acknowledged her connections with and affection for our cherished cloth. Whilst that may not have been well received by everyone in the Harris Tweed® industry, subsequently both brands have very successfully collaborated to their mutual benefit. We hope and expect that collaboration will continue for many years to come.|author=|title=|source=}}
In 2007, Westwood was approached by the Chair of King's College London, Patricia Rawlings, to design an academic gown for the college after it had successfully petitioned the Privy Council for the right to award degrees.{{cite web|url=http://www.kcl.ac.uk/newsevents/publications/comment-archive/pdfs/2008/comment-183.pdf|title=Comment: The College Newsletter: Westwood unveils gowns|date=September 2008|publisher=King's College London|access-date=21 February 2016}} In 2008, the Westwood-designed academic dresses for King's College were unveiled. On the gowns, Westwood commented: "Through my reworking of the traditional robe I tried to link the past, the present and the future. We are what we know."
File:King's College London academic dress designed by Vivienne Westwood.jpg in different colours, designed and presented by Westwood in 2008]]
In July 2011, Westwood's collections were presented at The Brandery fashion show in Barcelona.The Brandery, Catwalk, [http://www.thebrandery.com/portal/appmanager/efiraSalones/S094011?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=P75201021481310034214819&profileLocale=en TV Fashion Runway Show] {{webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110903012646/http://www.thebrandery.com/portal/appmanager/efiraSalones/S094011?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=P75201021481310034214819&profileLocale=en |date=3 September 2011 }}, thebrandery.com. Retrieved 20 February 2016.
Westwood worked closely with Richard Branson to design uniforms for the Virgin Atlantic crew. The uniform for the female crew consisted of a red suit, which accentuated the women's curves and hips, and had strategically placed darts around the bust area. The men's uniform consisted of a grey and burgundy three-piece suit with details on the lapels and pockets. Westwood and Branson were both passionate about using sustainable materials throughout their designs to reduce the impact on the environment and so used recycled polyester.{{cite journal|last1=Karimzadeh|first1=Marc|title=Vivienne Westwood Takes Flight With Richard Branson On Virgin Atlantic|journal=Trade Journals|date=2 May 2013|volume=205|issue=90|id={{ProQuest|1349800397}}}}
Vivienne Westwood companies
In March 2012, Vivienne Westwood Group reached agreement to end a long-standing UK franchise relationship with Manchester-based Hervia, which operated seven stores for the fashion chain. The deal brought to a conclusion a legal dispute, which included Hervia issuing High Court proceedings for alleged breach of contract, after Westwood sought to end the franchise deal before the agreed term.{{cite news |url=http://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/business/business-news/vivienne-westwood-group-hervia-agree-683290|title=Vivienne Westwood Group and Hervia agree to settlement|newspaper=Manchester Evening News|access-date=21 February 2016}} The subsequent transition of some of the Hervia stores to Westwood, along with cost-savings, was credited for a jump in Vivienne Westwood Ltd's pre-tax profits by nearly a factor of 10, to £5 million from £527,683 the previous year.{{Cite web |url=https://beta.companieshouse.gov.uk/company/02682271/filing-history|title = VIVIENNE WESTWOOD LIMITED – Filing history}}
The next year, the company announced: "Over the last year margins have been under pressure due to the nature of wider retail conditions."{{cite web|author=Russell Lynch |url=https://www.standard.co.uk/business/business-news/vivienne-westwood-profits-fall-after-disappointing-year-9656589.html|title=Vivienne Westwood profits fall after 'disappointing' year|website=Evening Standard|date=8 August 2014|access-date=21 February 2016}}
Shortly after, Westwood announced she would cease further expansion of her business as a way of tackling environmental and sustainability issues.{{cite news|last=Binnie|first=Isla|url=https://www.reuters.com/article/us-milan-fashionweek-westwood-idUSBRE95N1F320130624|title=Designer Vivienne Westwood shuns expansion, big wardrobes|work=Reuters|date=24 June 2013|access-date=21 February 2016}}
In March 2015, the company announced that it would open a three-story outpost in midtown Manhattan in New York City.{{cite web|author=Khanh T.L. Tran|url=http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/vivienne-westwood-opening-first-boutique-in-new-york-10100424|title=Vivienne Westwood Opening First Boutique in New York|website=Women's Wear Daily|access-date=21 February 2016|date=23 March 2015}} This was followed by a new {{convert|3200|sqft|adj=on}} shop in a building also housing the company's offices and showrooms in Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris, opening in early 2016.{{cite web|url=http://uk.fashionmag.com/news/Vivienne-Westwood-coming-to-Rue-Saint-Honore-in-Paris,437671.html|title=Vivienne Westwood coming to Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris|website=Uk.fashionmag.com|access-date=21 February 2016|archive-date=7 March 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160307053512/http://uk.fashionmag.com/news/Vivienne-Westwood-coming-to-Rue-Saint-Honore-in-Paris,437671.html|url-status=dead}}
As of December 2015, Vivienne Westwood Ltd operated 12 retail stores in the UK, including an outlet store in Bicester Village. There were 63 Westwood shops worldwide including nine in China, nine in Hong Kong, 18 in South Korea, six in Taiwan, two in Thailand, and two in the United States.
In 2025, the Vivienne Westwood website lists 102 store locations in 17 countries. {{cite web | url=https://www.viviennewestwood.com/storelist/ | title=All Store Locations | Vivienne Westwood® }}
=Tax fine and perception=
In August 2011, Westwood's company Vivienne Westwood Ltd agreed to pay £350,000 in tax plus interest of £144,112, due in 2009, to HM Revenue and Customs (HMRC) for underestimating the value of her brand. Her UK business had sold the rights to her trademarks to Luxembourg-based Latimo, which she controlled, for £840,000 in 2002. After examining the deal, HMRC argued that the brand had been undervalued. The £2 million valuation triggered additional taxes.{{cite news |last=Tyler|first=Richard|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/8728580/Vivienne-Westwood-undervalues-itself.html |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220112/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/8728580/Vivienne-Westwood-undervalues-itself.html |archive-date=12 January 2022 |url-access=subscription |url-status=live|title=Vivienne Westwood undervalues itself|newspaper=The Daily Telegraph|access-date=21 February 2016}}{{cbignore}}
Accounts for Vivienne Westwood Ltd showed that since 2011, the company had continued to pay £2 million a year to offshore company Latimo for the right to use Westwood's name on her own fashion label.{{cite news|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/politics/green-party/11457076/Vivienne-Westwood-accused-of-hypocrisy-over-offshore-tax-base.html |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220112/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/politics/green-party/11457076/Vivienne-Westwood-accused-of-hypocrisy-over-offshore-tax-base.html |archive-date=12 January 2022 |url-access=subscription |url-status=live|title=Vivienne Westwood accused of hypocrisy over offshore tax base|newspaper=The Daily Telegraph|access-date=21 February 2016}}{{cbignore}} Latimo, which Westwood controlled as the majority shareholder in her companies, was set up in 2002. Such arrangements, while legal, were against the Green Party policy to eliminate use of tax havens such as Luxembourg.{{cite news|author=Nicola Woolcock |url=https://www.thetimes.com/business-money/money/article/vivienne-westwood-accused-of-2m-tax-avoidance-d0pn5nl6xzf|title=Vivienne Westwood accused of £2m tax avoidance|newspaper=The Times|date=9 March 2015|access-date=21 February 2016}} In March 2015, Westwood said, "It is important to me that my business affairs are in line with my personal values. I am subject to UK tax on all of my income".{{cite web|url=http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2015/03/11/vivienne-westwood-responds-to-tax-avoidance-claims|title=Vivienne Westwood Responds To Tax Avoidance Claims|website=British Vogue|date=11 March 2015|access-date=21 February 2016}} Later in 2015, she said that she had restructured her corporate tax arrangements to try to align them with the Green Party's policy.
= Criticism by ''Eluxe Magazine'' over sustainability of Westwood clothing =
In 2013, sustainable luxury fashion publication Eluxe Magazine accused Westwood of using the green movement as a marketing tool because some of Westwood's fashion and accessories lines are made in the People's Republic of China. These were found to include PVC, polyester, rayon and viscose, all derived from harmful chemicals.{{cite news |author=James Lyons |date=15 March 2015 |title=Westwood's anti-fracking frock turns toxic |url=http://www.thesundaytimes.co.uk/sto/news/uk_news/People/article1531160.ece |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150317100044/http://www.thesundaytimes.co.uk/sto/news/uk_news/People/article1531160.ece |archive-date=17 March 2015 |access-date=21 February 2016 |newspaper=The Sunday Times}} Eluxe wrote that, despite Westwood's statements that consumers should 'buy less', her company produces nine collections a year compared to the average designer's two. Eluxe accused Westwood of using unpaid interns in her fashion house and making them work over 40 hours per week and wrote that some interns complained about their treatment by the fashion house.{{cite web |title=Why Vivienne Westwood is Not Eco Friendly |url=http://eluxemagazine.com/magazine/vivienne-westwood-is-not-eco-friendly |access-date=21 February 2016 |work=Eluxe Magazine}}
Notable clients and commissions
In 1993, Westwood designed many of the colorful suits and outfits Duran Duran wore during their tour for The Wedding Album, as well as those that appeared in the three videos for that album: "Ordinary World", "Come Undone" and "Too Much Information".
Dita Von Teese wore a purple Westwood gown for her formal wedding ceremony when she married Marilyn Manson in 2005.{{Cite web |title=Dita Von Teese's wedding dress, 2005 {{!}} Western Australian Museum |url=http://museum.wa.gov.au/whats-on/unveiled/highlights/dita-von-teese-s-wedding-dress-2005 |access-date=27 August 2022 |website=museum.wa.gov.au |language=en}}
Marion Cotillard wore a Westwood red satin strapless dress at the London premiere of her film Public Enemies in 2009.{{cite web|url=http://www.fabsugar.com/Marion-Cotillard-Wears-Red-Vivienne-Westwood-Dress-Public-Enemies-Premiere-London-3404463|title=Marion Cotillard Wears Red Vivienne Westwood Dress at Public Enemies Premiere in London|publisher=PopSugar|date=30 June 2009|access-date=21 July 2014|archive-date=9 August 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140809062906/http://www.fabsugar.com/Marion-Cotillard-Wears-Red-Vivienne-Westwood-Dress-Public-Enemies-Premiere-London-3404463|url-status=dead}} In 2013, she wore a Westwood Couture pink and ivory striped dress at the Chopard lunch in Cannes.{{cite web|url=http://www.redcarpet-fashionawards.com/2013/05/17/marion-cotillard-in-vivienne-westwood-chopard-lunch|title=Marion Cotillard in Vivienne Westwood – Chopard Lunch|publisher=redcarpet-fashionawards.com|date=17 May 2013|access-date=21 July 2014}}
In 2011, Princess Eugenie wore three Westwood designs for the pre-wedding dinner, the wedding ceremony and the after-wedding party at the wedding of Prince William and Catherine Middleton.{{Cite web |quote=Despite receiving criticism for her Vivienne Westwood look at the royal wedding, Princess Eugenie chose another Westwood dress for her appearance at last night's White Tie and Tiara Ball in London... |url=https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/princess-eugenie-red-vivienne-westwood |publisher=British Vogue |date=24 July 2011 |access-date=29 December 2022 |last=Milligan |first=Lauren |title=Princess Eugenie red Vivienne Westwood {{!}} British Vogue}}
Pharrell Williams wore a Westwood Buffalo hat that was originally in Westwood's 1982–83 collection to the 2014 56th Annual Grammy Awards. The hat was so popular that it inspired its own Twitter account. Williams was first seen wearing a similar Westwood Buffalo hat in 2009.{{cite web|url=http://www.graziadaily.co.uk/fashion/news/a-condensed-history-of-pharrells-grammy-hat-from-1982-present|title=Fashion Articles – Grazia|website=graziadaily.co.uk|access-date=21 February 2016|url-status=dead|archive-date=10 October 2014|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141010123424/http://www.graziadaily.co.uk/fashion/news/a-condensed-history-of-pharrells-grammy-hat-from-1982-present}}
Dua Lipa wore custom Westwood on the red carpet of the 2021 Brit Awards.{{cite web|url=https://www.vogue.co.uk/news/article/dua-lipa-brit-awards-2021|title=Dua Lipa's Custom Vivienne Westwood Brit Awards Looks Are A Riotous Ode To Britishness|website=vogue.co.uk|access-date=14 January 2023|url-status=dead|archive-date=14 January 2023|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230114061518/https://www.vogue.co.uk/news/article/dua-lipa-brit-awards-2021}}
In Final Fantasy XV, Lunafreya Nox Fleuret's wedding dress was designed by Westwood.{{Cite tweet |number=803909008717475840 |user=westwood_japan|title=#FFXV のヒロイン、ルナがVivienne WestwoodのSueno Wedding Dressを着用しています。このドレスはGold Label 2014/15年秋冬コレクションのクチュールデザインで、ロンドン・Davies Streetの店舗ではオーダーを承っています|author=Vivienne Westwood|trans-title=Luna, the heroine of #FFXV, is wearing a Vivienne Westwood Sueno Wedding Dress. This dress is a couture design from the Gold Label Fall / Winter 2014/15 collection and is available for order at the Davies Street store in London.|language=ja}}
=''Sex and the City''=
Westwood's designs were featured in the 2008 film adaptation of the television series Sex and the City. In the film, Carrie Bradshaw becomes engaged to long-term lover Mr. Big. Being a writer at Vogue, she is invited by her editor to model wedding dresses, including a design made by Westwood. The dress is subsequently sent to Carrie as a gift, with a handwritten note from Westwood herself, and Carrie decides to use the Westwood gown. The wedding dress has also been described as one of the movie's most iconic features, leading Westwood to approach the producers about being involved in making a sequel.{{cite web|url=http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/daily/090107-vivienne-westwood-to-write-satc-seq.aspx|last=Barnett|first=Leisa|title=Sex and the Dame)|work=British Vogue|date=7 January 2009|access-date=30 October 2010|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110430204550/http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/daily/090107-vivienne-westwood-to-write-satc-seq.aspx|archive-date=30 April 2011}} A version of the dress was subsequently made available for purchase on Net-a-porter, and sold out in a matter of hours. It was available as a knee-length version.{{Cite web|last=Lester|first=Tracey Lomrantz|title=Carrie Bradshaw's Vivienne Westwood Wedding Dress Sells Out in Hours|url=https://www.glamour.com/story/carrie-bradshaws-vivienne-west|access-date=30 October 2020|website=Glamour|date=31 March 2009|language=en-us}}
Political involvement
In April 1989, Westwood appeared on the cover of Tatler dressed as Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher. The suit that Westwood wore had been ordered for Thatcher but not yet delivered.{{cite web |url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/arts/livingicons/bio10.shtml |title=Biography: Dame Vivienne Westwood|publisher=BBC Arts|access-date=13 February 2010}} The cover, which bore the caption "This woman was once a punk", was included in The Guardian list of the best ever UK magazine covers.{{cite news |url=https://www.theguardian.com/media/gallery/2008/aug/08/pressandpublishing?picture=336315461|title=Are these the best ever UK magazine covers?|work=The Guardian|date=8 August 2008|access-date=13 February 2010|location=London, England}}
In September 2005, Westwood joined forces with the British civil rights group Liberty and launched exclusive limited design T-shirts and baby wear bearing the slogan I AM NOT A TERRORIST, please don't arrest me. She said she was supporting the campaign and defending habeas corpus. "When I was a schoolgirl, my history teacher, Mr. Scott, began to take classes in civic affairs. The first thing he explained to us was the fundamental rule of law embodied in habeas corpus. He spoke with pride of civilisation and democracy. The hatred of arbitrary arrest by the lettres de cachet of the French monarchy caused the storming of the Bastille. We can only take democracy for granted if we insist on our liberty", she said.{{cite news |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk/4287446.stm |first=Anna|last=Browning|title=The power of T-shirt slogans|publisher=BBC News|date=28 September 2005|access-date=30 October 2010}} The sale of the £50 T-shirts raised funds for the organisation. Westwood stated on television in 2007 that she had transferred her long-standing support for the Labour Party to the Conservatives, due to concerns about civil liberties and human rights.{{cite web |url=http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/daily/2007-11/071129-viviennes-christmas-speech.aspx |title=New Conservative Vivienne Westwood has something to get off her chest |work=British Vogue |date=29 November 2007 |access-date=30 October 2010 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110430204545/http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/daily/2007-11/071129-viviennes-christmas-speech.aspx |archive-date=30 April 2011 }}
On Easter Sunday 2008, she campaigned in person at the biggest Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament demonstration in ten years, at the Atomic Weapons Establishment, Aldermaston, Berkshire.{{cite web|url=http://www.vogue.co.uk/vogue_daily/story/story.asp?stid=51620&date=&sid=|archive-url=https://archive.today/20130114050612/http://www.vogue.co.uk/vogue_daily/story/story.asp?stid=51620&date=&sid=|url-status=dead|archive-date=14 January 2013|title=Vivienne Westwood rallies at CND's Easter Monday demonstration in Berkshire|work=British Vogue|date=25 March 2008|access-date=30 October 2010}}
File:Vivienne Westwood Life Ball 2011 e.jpg in Vienna in 2011]]
The next year, she cut off her hair to highlight the dangers of climate change.Olivia Bergin, [http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/beauty/news-features/TMG10681391/Vivienne-Westwood-cut-off-her-hair-to-promote-climate-change.html Vivienne Westwood Cut Off Her Hair To Promote Climate Change] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140311174310/http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/beauty/news-features/TMG10681391/Vivienne-Westwood-cut-off-her-hair-to-promote-climate-change.html |date=11 March 2014 }}, The Daily Telegraph, 6 March 2014. She also appeared in a PETA ad campaign to promote World Water Day and vegetarianism, drawing attention to the meat industry's water consumption.{{cite web|first=Bibby |last=Sowray|url=http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG10704917/Vivienne-Westwood-takes-a-shower-to-promote-World-Water-Day.html| title=Vivienne Westwood Takes a Shower To Promote World Water Day|website=The Daily Telegraph|date=18 March 2014|access-date=7 September 2018|url-status=live|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140318223906/http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG10704917/Vivienne-Westwood-takes-a-shower-to-promote-World-Water-Day.html|archive-date=18 March 2014}}
In 2014, Westwood bought a controlling interest in the equity crowdfunding platform Trillion Fund, which was dissolved in 2019.{{cite web|url=http://www.climateactionprogramme.org/news/vivienne_westwood_becomes_ambassador_for_clean_energy_trillion_fund |title=Vivienne Westwood becomes ambassador for clean energy Trillion Fund|publisher=Climate Action Programme|date=17 February 2016 |access-date=21 February 2016}}
In January 2015, Westwood stated her support of the Green Party: "I am investing in the Green Party because I believe it is in the best interests of our country and our economy".{{cite web|title=Vivienne Westwood: Vote Green 2015!|url=http://greenparty.org.uk/news/2015/01/23/vivienne-westwood-vote-green-2015!|website=News|publisher=Green Party of England and Wales|access-date=23 February 2015|date=23 January 2015}} It was reported that she had donated £300,000 to fund the party's election campaign.{{cite news|last1=Cowburn|first1=Ashley|title=Fashion designer Vivienne Westwood to donate £300,000 to the Green party|url=http://www.newstatesman.com/politics/2015/01/fashion-designer-vivienne-westwood-donate-300000-green-party|access-date=23 February 2015|work=New Statesman|date=23 January 2015}} In February 2015, Westwood was announced as the special guest on the Greens' We Are The Revolution campaigning tour of English universities in such cities as Liverpool, Norwich, Brighton and Sheffield.{{cite news|last1=Sherriff|first1=Lucy|title=Vivienne Westwood To Tour Universities To Promote Green Party To Students |url=http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/2015/02/20/vivienne-westwood-tour-universities-promote-green-party-students_n_6719348.html|access-date=23 February 2015|work=HuffPost|date=20 February 2015}} On the eve of the tour, Westwood was excluded from appearing by the youth wing of the Green Party due to her avoidance of UK corporate tax, which contravened party policy on usage of off-shore tax havens.{{cite news|url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/politics/green-party/11487630/Vivienne-Westwood-defrocked-by-Greens-over-tax-avoidance.html |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220112/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/politics/green-party/11487630/Vivienne-Westwood-defrocked-by-Greens-over-tax-avoidance.html |archive-date=12 January 2022 |url-access=subscription |url-status=live|title=Vivienne Westwood defrocked by Greens over 'tax avoidance'|newspaper=The Daily Telegraph|date=21 March 2015|access-date=21 February 2016}}{{cbignore}} She later condemned this as "a wasted opportunity" for the Greens. "I wasn't pure enough for them", she wrote in her online diary.{{cite web |url=http://climaterevolution.co.uk/wp/2015/06/09/viviennes-diary-april-2015|title=Climate Revolution|publisher=Climate Revolution|access-date=21 February 2016}} Subsequently, Westwood switched her support to campaigning on behalf of Nigel Askew, the 'We are the Reality Party' candidate opposing UKIP leader Nigel Farage in the Kent constituency of Thanet South.{{cite web|url=http://climaterevolution.co.uk/wp/hero-post/viviennes-diary-may-2015|access-date=25 June 2015|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150626115402/http://climaterevolution.co.uk/wp/hero-post/viviennes-diary-may-2015|archive-date=26 June 2015|title=Vivienne's Diary}} Askew polled 126 votes in the election.{{cite news|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/politics/constituencies/E14000948|title=Thanet South parliamentary constituency – Election 2015|publisher=BBC News|access-date=21 February 2016}}
In June 2017, Westwood endorsed Labour leader Jeremy Corbyn for the 2017 general election. She said, "I'm excited about the Labour Party manifesto because it's all about the fair distribution of wealth." She added "Jeremy clearly wants to go green and creating a fair distribution of wealth is the place to start, from there we can build a green economy which will secure our future."{{cite magazine |last=Sisley|first=Dominique|url=http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/36157/1/vivienne-westwood-comes-out-in-support-of-jeremy-corbyn|title=Vivienne Westwood comes out in support of Jeremy Corbyn|magazine=Dazed |date=2 June 2017|access-date=1 May 2018}}{{cite news |last=Doig|first=Stephen |url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/mens-style/vivienne-westwood-backs-jeremy-corbyn-latest-london-mens-ss18/ |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220112/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/luxury/mens-style/vivienne-westwood-backs-jeremy-corbyn-latest-london-mens-ss18/ |archive-date=12 January 2022 |url-access=subscription |url-status=live|title=Bill Bailey on happiness, Jeremy Corbyn and how turning 50 changed him|newspaper=The Daily Telegraph|date=12 June 2017|access-date=1 May 2018}}{{cbignore}} In November 2019, along with other public figures, Westwood signed a letter supporting Corbyn that described him as "a beacon of hope in the struggle against emergent far-right nationalism, xenophobia and racism in much of the democratic world" and endorsed him in the 2019 UK general election.{{cite news |last=Neale|first=Matthew |url=https://www.nme.com/news/music/new-letter-supporting-jeremy-corbyn-2568734|title=Exclusive: New letter supporting Jeremy Corbyn signed by Roger Waters, Robert Del Naja and more |work=NME|date=16 November 2019|access-date=27 November 2019}}
=Active Resistance manifesto=
In a 2007 interview, Westwood spoke out against what she perceived as the "drug of consumerism".{{cite news|url=https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2007/may/12/shopping.fashion1|work=The Guardian|location=London, England|title=All hail the Queen|first=Emma|last=Brockes|date=11 May 2007|access-date=9 April 2010}} She said: "I don't feel comfortable defending my clothes. But if you've got the money to afford them, then buy something from me. Just don't buy too much" in response to claims that anti-consumerism and fashion contradict each other.{{cite news |url=https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2007/dec/02/fashion.women|work=The Guardian|location=London, England|title=I don't feel comfortable defending my clothes. But if you've got the money to afford them, then buy something from me. Just don't buy too much|date=2 December 2007|access-date=9 April 2010|first=Carole|last=Cadwallader}}
Later, Westwood created a manifesto called Active Resistance to Propaganda, which she said deals with the pursuit of art in relation to the human predicament and climate change.{{cite web|url=http://activeresistance.co.uk|title=Climate Revolution : Vivienne's Diary|website=Activeresistance.co.uk|access-date=21 February 2016}} She claimed that her manifesto "penetrates to the root of the human predicament and offers the underlying solution. We have the choice to become more cultivated and therefore more human – or by muddling along as usual we shall remain the destructive and self-destroying animal, the victim of our own cleverness."Vivienne Westwood, [http://activeresistance.co.uk/getalife/manifesto.html Manifesto] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110307195539/http://activeresistance.co.uk/getalife/manifesto.html |date=7 March 2011 }}, activeresistance.co.uk. Retrieved 20 February 2016. The manifesto was read by Westwood at a number of venues including the London Transport Museum and distributed after readings as a booklet.{{cite news |last1=Westwood |first1=Vivienne |title=Vivienne Westwood's manifesto – Active resistance to propaganda |url=https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2007/may/12/fashion.features4 |work=The Guardian |date=12 May 2007 |language=en}} It was then written in the form of a play and staged at the Bloomsbury Ballroom by Forbidden London and Dave West on 4 December 2009. It starred Michelle Ryan and a number of other British actors.Vivienne Westwood's – 'Active Resistance to Propaganda'- Forbidden London- part 1 [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hc4hQ47jbyY] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200508215023/https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hc4hQ47jbyY&gl=US&hl=en|date=8 May 2020}}
Westwood's manifesto was criticized by eco-activists who claimed that despite her calls to save the environment, she herself made no concessions to making her clothing or her business eco-friendly.{{cite web|url=http://eluxemagazine.com/magazine/vivienne-westwoods-climate-revolution-charter-criticized|title=Vivienne Westwood's Climate Revolution Charter: A Critique|work=Eluxe Magazine|date=28 March 2013|access-date=2 August 2013|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140403150015/http://eluxemagazine.com/magazine/vivienne-westwoods-climate-revolution-charter-criticized/|archive-date=3 April 2014}}
=Julian Assange and WikiLeaks=
Westwood was a longtime supporter of Julian Assange and WikiLeaks, and called for his release from custody.{{Cite web|date=30 April 2020 |title=EXCLUSIVE interview: Dame Vivienne Westwood & Joe Corré in defence of Julian Assange|url=https://the-shortlisted.co.uk/vivienne-westwood-joe-corre-defence-julian-assange-interview/|access-date=26 July 2021|website=The Shortlisted|language=en-GB}} In June 2013, Westwood dedicated one of her collections to Chelsea Manning and at her fashion show she and all her models wore large image badges of Manning with the word "Truth" under her picture. In 2012, she used her appearances at London Fashion Week to push for Assange's release by presenting "I am Julian Assange" t-shirts.{{Cite web|last1=Snead|first1=Elizabeth|date=29 October 2012|title=Vivienne Westwood Aids WikiLeaks With 'I Am Julian Assange' T-Shirts (Poll)|url=https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/general-news/vivienne-westwood-wikileaks-julian-assange-t-shirts-384039/|access-date=26 July 2021|website=The Hollywood Reporter|language=en-US}} She visited him several times during his political asylum at the Ecuadorian Embassy in London and in Belmarsh Prison after his arrest in April 2019.{{Cite web|title=Fashion designer Vivienne Westwood visits Assange: "He's a freedom fighter!" |url=https://www.wsws.org/en/articles/2019/09/12/assa-s12.html |access-date=26 July 2021|website=World Socialist Web Site|date=12 September 2019 |language=en}} In July 2020, she protested outside London's Old Bailey court against Assange's possible extradition to the United States by wearing a yellow pantsuit and suspending herself in a giant birdcage. Describing herself as the canary in the coal mine, she said she was "half-poisoned already from government corruption of law and gaming of the legal system by government".{{cite news |last1=Holland |first1=Oscar |title=Vivienne Westwood suspends herself in giant birdcage to protest Assange's extradition |url=https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/vivienne-westwood-assange-protest/index.html |access-date=28 July 2020 |publisher=CNN |language=en}}
For Assange's wedding to Stella Moris in March 2022 in Belmarsh Prison, the groom wore an outfit based on a Scottish kilt and the bride a dress with a graffiti application, both designs by Westwood and her husband, Austrian fashion designer Andreas Kronthaler."[https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/vivienne-westwood-julian-assange-wedding-b2042109.html Vivienne Westwood has designed Julian Assange and his fiancee's wedding outfits]", The Independent, 22 March 2022
Books
Westwood was also a noted author or co-author of books, such as Fashion in Art: The Second Empire and Impressionism,{{cite web |year=1995 |title=Fashion in Art : the Second Empire and Impressionism – OpenBibArt |url=http://www.openbibart.fr/item/display/10068/925032 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161202040324/http://www.openbibart.fr/item/display/10068/925032 |archive-date=2 December 2016 |access-date=1 December 2016 |website=Open Bib Art}} in which she explored the worlds of fashion and the arts and the links between them.
Vivienne Westwood Opus 2008 limited edition was published for London Fashion Week 2008, documents Westwood's work and is also a unique work of art. The book measures {{convert|35.4|x|25.2|inches|cm}}, weighs {{convert|44|lb}}, with a total limited edition of 900. There are 9 different covers and titles each numbered 1 to 100: manifesto, cockroach propaganda, pirate squiggle, propaganda eyes, I am expensive, AR-Vivienne Westwood, innocent, active resistance to propaganda and union jack. The Opus contains 97 large-format Polaroid photographs, each measuring {{convert|19.7|x|23.6|inches|cm}}. The subjects include Westwood, her friends and models, including Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Jerry Hall, Georgina May-Jagger, the Duchess of York Sarah Ferguson, Tim Burton, Sir Bob Geldof, Jasmine Guinness, and Helena Bonham Carter.{{Cite news |date=8 February 2008 |title=The catwalk queen goes to print with Opus |language=en |work=The Times |url=https://www.thetimes.com/travel/destinations/uk-travel/england/london-travel/the-catwalk-queen-goes-to-print-with-opus-t0h5fk0jmkr |access-date=30 December 2022 |issn=0140-0460}}{{Cite news |date=13 February 2008 |title=Fashion royalty: The Vivienne Westwood Opus |language=en-GB |work=The Guardian |url=https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandhealth/gallery/2008/feb/13/fashion.photography |access-date=30 December 2022 |issn=0261-3077}}
Recognition
In the 1992 Birthday Honours, Westwood was appointed an Officer of the Order of the British Empire (OBE) for services to fashion design.{{London Gazette |issue=52952 |date=12 June 1992 |pages=11|supp=y}} (United Kingdom) She received her medal from Queen Elizabeth II at Buckingham Palace; at the ceremony, Westwood wore nothing but sheer tights with a reinforced bikini top under her skirt, which was later captured by a photographer in the courtyard of the Palace. Westwood later said, "I wished to show off my outfit by twirling the skirt. It did not occur to me that, as the photographers were practically on their knees, the result would be more glamorous than I expected," and added: "I have heard that the picture amused the Queen."{{cite news |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/news/people/profiles/vivienne-westwood-you-ask-the-questions-692758.html|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101206040902/http://www.independent.co.uk/news/people/profiles/vivienne-westwood-you-ask-the-questions-692758.html|url-status=dead|archive-date=6 December 2010|title=Vivienne Westwood: You ask the questions|work=The Independent |date=21 February 2001|access-date=31 March 2010|location=London}} Westwood advanced from OBE to Dame Commander of the same Order (DBE) in the 2006 New Year Honours "for services to British fashion",United Kingdom:{{London Gazette |issue=57855 |date=31 December 2005 |pages=7 |supp=1}} and earned the award for British Designer of the Year on three occasions.
She was a Fellow of the Royal Society of Arts (FRSA).{{Cite web |date=2024-03-15 |title=50 Famous Fellows - RSA Journal |url=https://www.thersa.org/rsa-journal/20242/issue-1/features/50-famous-fellows |access-date=2024-12-05 |website=The RSA |language=en}}
Westwood was awarded a Fellowship at King's College London in 2007,{{Cite web|title=King's College London – Fellows of King's |url=https://www.kcl.ac.uk/aboutkings/history/fellows|access-date=21 December 2020|publisher=King's College London}} and in 2008 she designed 20 new academic gowns and hoods for King's students to wear at their graduation ceremonies.{{Cite web|date=3 July 2008 |title=Westwood academic gowns go on show|url=https://metro.co.uk/2008/07/03/westwood-academic-gowns-go-on-show-246157/ |access-date=21 December 2020|website=Metro|language=en}} In 2008, Heriot-Watt University awarded Westwood an honorary degree of Doctor of Letters for her contribution to the industry and use of Scottish textiles.{{Cite news |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/south_of_scotland/7360395.stm |title=Westwood praises fashion campus|date=22 April 2008 |publisher=BBC News |access-date=6 April 2016}}
In January 2011, Westwood was featured in a Canadian-made television documentary called Vivienne Westwood's London in which she takes the viewer through her favourite parts of London, including the Courtauld Institute of Art, the Wallace Collection, Whitechapel (accompanied by Sara Stockbridge), Hampton Court, the London Symphony Orchestra, Brixton Market and Electric Avenue, and the National Gallery.
In 2012, Westwood was among the British cultural icons selected by artist Sir Peter Blake to appear in a new version of his most famous artwork – the Beatles' Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band album cover – to celebrate the British cultural figures of his life that he most admires.{{cite news|title=New faces on Sgt Pepper album cover for artist Peter Blake's 80th birthday|url= https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2012/apr/02/peter-blake-sgt-pepper-cover-revisited|work=The Guardian |date=5 October 2016}} Also in 2012, Westwood was chosen as one of The New Elizabethans to mark the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II. A panel of seven academics, journalists and historians named Westwood among a group of 60 people in the UK "whose actions during the reign of Elizabeth II have had a significant impact on lives in these islands and given the age its character".{{cite web |url=http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b01jxs2c/features/ |publisher=BBC Programmes|title=The New Elizabethans – Vivienne Westwood |access-date=30 May 2016}} A tartan outfit designed by Westwood featured on a commemorative UK postage stamp issued by the Royal Mail in 2012, celebrating Great British Fashion.{{cite news |title=Designer Stamps – Great British Fashion Stamps |url=https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/designer-stamps-great-british-fashion-stamps |access-date=24 September 2022 |work=British Vogue}}
In October 2014, the authorised biography Vivienne Westwood by Ian Kelly was published by Picador. Paul Gorman described it as "sloppy" and "riddled with inaccuracies" on the basis of multiple errors in the book including misspelling the names of popular rock stars "Jimmy" Hendrix and Pete "Townsend" and misidentifying the date of the Sex Pistols' first concert and McLaren's age when he died.{{cite news|author=Adam Sherwin |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/books/news/vivienne-westwood-accused-of-plagiarism-over-book-on-her-life-9799821.html|title=Vivienne Westwood accused of plagiarism over book on her life|newspaper=The Independent|date=16 October 2014|access-date=21 February 2016}} Regarding Gorman's claims, Picador publisher Paul Baggaley told The Bookseller: "We always take very seriously any errors that are brought to our attention and, where appropriate, correct them."{{cite magazine|author=Coben, Harlan |url=http://www.thebookseller.com/news/gorman-claims-westwood-biography-plagiarism|title=Gorman claims Westwood biography plagiarism |magazine=The Bookseller|date=17 October 2014 |access-date=21 February 2016}} A spokesman for Macmillan Publishers, which published an Australian edition of the biography, confirmed that the matter was being handled by the publisher's lawyers.{{cite web|author=Jason Steger |url=http://www.smh.com.au/entertainment/books/legal-action-looms-over-vivienne-westwood-biography-20141108-11iuzd.html|title=Legal action looms over Vivienne Westwood biography|website=The Sydney Morning Herald|date=9 November 2014|access-date=21 February 2016}}
In 2016, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, acquired a Tits t-shirt, designed by McLaren and sold at Seditionaries between 1976 and 1980.{{cite web| url = https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/129635| title = Vivienne Westwood {{!}} "Tits" T-shirt {{!}} British {{!}} The Metropolitan Museum of Art}}
In 2018, a documentary film about Westwood, called Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist, premiered.{{cite magazine|last=Weaver |first=Hilary |url=https://www.vanityfair.com/style/2018/03/vivienne-westwood-documentary |title=The Vivienne Westwood Documentary Vivienne Westwood Doesn't Want You to See |magazine=Vanity Fair |date=8 March 2018 |access-date=13 June 2018}} The next year, Isabel Sanches Vegara wrote and Laura Callaghan illustrated Vivienne Westwood, one of the series, Little People, Big Dreams, published by Frances Lincoln Publishing.
In 2022, the documentary
Personal life
Westwood had two children. Ben Westwood (born 1963) is her son with first husband Derek Westwood; he is a photographer of erotica. Her second son, Joseph Corré (born 1967) with second husband Malcolm McLaren, is the founder of lingerie brand Agent Provocateur.{{cite web|url=http://www.zimbio.com/Vivienne+Westwood/articles/rOnglLTHbgb/Vivienne+Westwood+son+Ben+Breaks+Men+Fashion|title=Vivienne Westwood's son Ben Breaks into Men's Fashion|publisher=zimbio.com|access-date=26 July 2009|url-status=dead|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090722032853/http://www.zimbio.com/Vivienne+Westwood/articles/rOnglLTHbgb/Vivienne+Westwood+son+Ben+Breaks+Men+Fashion|archive-date=22 July 2009}} Cora Corré, activist and model, is her granddaughter.{{cite news|url=https://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/london-life/meet-cora-vivienne-westwoods-granddaughter-and-the-new-cara-delevingne-8727482.html |title=Meet Cora: Vivienne Westwood's granddaughter and the new Cara Delevingne |publisher=The Standard |date=2013-07-23 |accessdate=2025-01-22}}
Westwood married her former fashion student, Andreas Kronthaler, in 1992.{{cite news |last=Croft |first=Claudia|date=8 January 2017|title=The marvellous Mr Westwood|url=https://www.thetimes.com/life-style/article/the-marvellous-mr-westwood-69h0zchk2|url-status=live|work=The Times|archive-url=https://archive.today/20210930090151/https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/the-marvellous-mr-westwood-69h0zchk2|archive-date=30 September 2021 |access-date=12 November 2021}}
For 30 years, Westwood lived in an ex–council flat on Nightingale Lane, Clapham.{{cite news|last1=Sharkey|first1=Alix |title=Westwood ho!|url=https://www.theguardian.com/theobserver/2001/apr/08/life1.lifemagazine|access-date=18 August 2014|work=The Observer|date=8 April 2001}} In 2000, Kronthaler convinced her to move into a Queen Anne style house in Clapham built in 1703.{{cite news|author=Cathy Horyn |url=https://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/18/t-magazine/womens-fashion/18westwood.html|title=The Queen V|work=The New York Times |date=31 December 2009|access-date=30 March 2010}} She was a keen gardener{{cite news|author=Piers Beeching |url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/gardening/5983691/Me-and-my-garden-Vivienne-Westwood.html |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220112/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/gardening/5983691/Me-and-my-garden-Vivienne-Westwood.html |archive-date=12 January 2022 |url-access=subscription |url-status=live|title=Me & my garden: Vivienne Westwood|work=The Daily Telegraph |date=6 August 2009|access-date=30 March 2010|location=London, England}}{{cbignore}} and a vegetarian. She identified spiritually as a Taoist.{{cite magazine |last1=Klerk |first1=Amy |title=Vivienne Westwood has died, aged 81 |url=https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/a42363881/vivienne-westwood-death/ |magazine=Harper's Bazaar |date=29 December 2022 |access-date=11 January 2023}}
=80th birthday=
To celebrate her 80th birthday, Westwood was commissioned by CIRCA, an art platform founded in 2020 by British-Irish artist Josef O'Connor,Buck, Louisa (24 September 2020). [https://www.theartnewspaper.com/news/circa-launches-a-new-20-20-artistic-vision-across-piccadilly-lights New public art project in London will show works by Ai Weiwei and Eddie Peake on Europe's largest billboard] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210820010912/https://www.theartnewspaper.com/news/circa-launches-a-new-20-20-artistic-vision-across-piccadilly-lights |date=20 August 2021 }} The Art Newspaper. Retrieved 29 July 2021. to present a new video work on the Piccadilly Lights screen in Piccadilly Circus, London. In the ten-minute film created with her brother, the punk icon performed a rewritten rendition of "Without You" from My Fair Lady to offer a stark warning of societal indifference to the looming environmental catastrophes, a call against the arms trade, and its link to climate change: "I have a plan 2 save the World. Capitalism is a war economy + war is the biggest polluter, therefore Stop War + change economy 2 fair distribution of wealth at the same time: NO MANS LAND. Let's be clear, U + I can't stop war just like that. But we can stop arms production + that would halt climate change cc + financial Crash. Long term this will stop war".Malzahn, Catherine (8 April 2021) [https://www.crfashionbook.com/culture/a36054335/vivienne-westwood-celebrates-her-80th-birthday-in-the-most-vivienne-westwood-way/ Vivienne Westwood celebrates her 80th birthday in the most Vivienne Westwood way] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210730134542/https://www.crfashionbook.com/culture/a36054335/vivienne-westwood-celebrates-her-80th-birthday-in-the-most-vivienne-westwood-way/ |date=30 July 2021 }} CR Fashion Book. Retrieved 30 July 2021. In an interview with The Guardian, her husband Andreas Kronthaler was quoted as saying, "It was a beautiful day because for once she let herself enjoy it."Segalov, Michael (26 June 2021). [https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2021/jun/26/being-mr-westwood-vivienne-is-eccentric-serious-and-genuine Being Mr Westwood: Vivienne is 'eccentric, serious and genuine'] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210730141534/https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2021/jun/26/being-mr-westwood-vivienne-is-eccentric-serious-and-genuine |date=30 July 2021 }} The Guardian. Retrieved 29 July 2021.
=Death=
Westwood died in Clapham, London, on 29 December 2022, aged 81.{{Cite web|date= 29 December 2022|title=Fashion designer Vivienne Westwood dies|language=en-GB|publisher=BBC News|url=https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-64122181|access-date= 29 December 2022}}{{Cite web|url=https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2022/dec/29/dame-vivienne-westwood-fashion-designer-dies-aged-81|title=Dame Vivienne Westwood, fashion designer, dies aged 81|work=The Guardian|date= 29 December 2022|access-date= 29 December 2022}}{{Cite web|url=https://edition.cnn.com/style/article/vivienne-westwood-obituary/index.html|title= Vivienne Westwood, fashion designer and style icon, dies at 81|website=CNN|date= 29 December 2022|access-date= 29 December 2022}}{{Cite web|date= 29 December 2022|title= Vivienne Westwood, influential punk fashion maverick, dies at 81|language=en|website=NPR|url=https://www.npr.org/2022/12/29/1146122415/vivienne-westwood-punk-fashion-designer-dies|access-date= 29 December 2022}}{{Cite web|url=https://www.cbsnews.com/news/vivienne-westwood-dies-age-81-fashion-designer|title= Vivienne Westwood, iconic fashion designer, dies at 81|website=CBS News|date= 29 December 2022|access-date= 29 December 2022}}{{Cite news|date= 29 December 2022|title= Vivienne Westwood, provocative British fashion designer, dies at 81|language=en|newspaper=Washington Post|url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/obituaries/2022/12/29/designer-vivienne-westwood-dead|access-date= 29 December 2022}}
Former Sex Pistols bass guitarist Glen Matlock paid tribute to Westwood on Twitter, stating that it was "a privilege to have rubbed shoulders with her in the mid '70s at the birth of punk and the waves it created that still resound today for the disaffected."{{Cite tweet|author=Glen Matlock|user=GlenMatlock|number=1608589376568840193|title=I have just heard the sad news about a one off, single minded, talented lady|date=29 December 2022|access-date=30 December 2022}} Chrissie Hynde, singer and guitarist of The Pretenders, who had previously been employed as a shop assistant by Westwood and McLaren at Sex during the 1970s, tweeted: "Vivienne is gone and the world is already a less interesting place."{{Cite tweet|author=Chrissie Hynde|user=ChrissieHynde|number=1608579881528623104|title=Vivienne is gone and the world is already a less interesting place.|date=29 December 2022|access-date=30 December 2022}} Others who paid tribute to Westwood on social media included singer Simon Le Bon from Duran Duran, Boy George,{{Cite tweet |author=Boy George|user=BoyGeorge|number=1608589986663636992|title=R.I.P to the great and inspiring Vivienne Westwood who lead us through punk and beyond.|date=29 December 2022|access-date=30 December 2022}} comedian Russell Brand,{{Cite tweet |author=Russell Brand|user=rustyrockets|number=1608786398223699971|title=Goodbye Vivienne Westwood saint of punks, single Mums, entrepreneurs and rebels.|date=29 December 2022|access-date=30 December 2022}} former Frankie Goes to Hollywood singer Holly Johnson,{{Cite tweet|author=Holly Johnson|user=TheHollyJohnson|number=1608623108818370564|title=Goodbye Vivienne Westwood|date=29 December 2022|access-date=30 December 2022}} pop band Bananarama,{{Cite tweet|author=Bananarama|user=VivaBananarama|number=1608595788653023232|title=RIP Dame Vivienne Westwood, a true pioneer.|date=29 December 2022|access-date=30 December 2022}} singer and multimedia artist Yoko Ono,{{Cite tweet|author=Yoko Ono|user=yokoono|number=1608578549258289153|title=Rest in peace, Vivienne.|date=29 December 2022|access-date=30 December 2022}} singer Paul McCartney,{{Cite tweet|author=Paul McCartney|user=PaulMcCartney|number=1608812774104129537|title=Goodbye Vivienne Westwood.|date=30 December 2022|access-date=30 December 2022}} and the fashion house Alexander McQueen.{{Cite tweet|author=Alexander McQueen|user=McQueen|number=1608799048886284288|title=Vivienne Westwood. Forever inspirational.|date=30 December 2022|access-date=30 December 2022}}
Former co-leader of the Green Party MP Caroline Lucas said of Westwood: "Such a legend, a huge inspiration, brilliantly creative and always a committed activist for people and planet – my thoughts are with her family and friends – RIP."{{cite news | url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-64122181 | title=Vivienne Westwood: Pioneering fashion designer dies aged 81 | publisher=BBC News | date=29 December 2022 }}
In January 2023 a private funeral was held at Christ Church in Tintwistle, Derbyshire, the village where Westwood grew up, where the church was decorated with {{convert|45|m}} of MacLeod Harris Tweed tartan, worth around £45,000.{{cn|date=May 2024}} A memorial service for Westwood was held, at Southwark Cathedral in London, on 16 February 2023.{{cite news | url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-64666516 | title=Vivienne Westwood: Kate Moss and Victoria Beckham attend memorial service | publisher=BBC News | date=16 February 2023}}
Portraits of Vivienne Westwood
The National Portrait Gallery holds 18 images of Westwood taken between 1990 and 2014, including those by Mario Testino, Jane Bown, Juergen Teller, Anne-Katrin Purkiss, and Martin Parr.{{cite web |title=Dame Vivienne Westwood |url=https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp11747/dame-vivienne-westwood?search=sas&sText=vivienne+westwood |website=www.npg.org.uk |publisher=National Portrait Gallery |access-date=7 January 2023 |language=en}}
References
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External links
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Category:Alumni of the University of Westminster
Category:British women fashion designers
Category:Dames Commander of the Order of the British Empire
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Category:Fellows of King's College London
Category:British fashion designers
Category:People associated with Heriot-Watt University