Cossack cuisine

{{Cossacks}}

{{Short description|none}}

{{Multiple issues|{{Rough translation|Russian|Ukrainian|date=November 2024}}

{{More citations needed|date=May 2024}}}}

Cossack cuisine is the traditional cuisine of the Cossack people of present-day Ukraine and Russia.{{Cite web |date=2015-05-09 |title=Казачья кухня {{!}} Церковь Успения Богородицы |url=http://klin-demianovo.ru/kazachja-obschina/tradition/kazachya-kuhnya/ |access-date=2023-04-09 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150509022630/http://klin-demianovo.ru/kazachja-obschina/tradition/kazachya-kuhnya/ |archive-date=2015-05-09 }} Having emerged in parallel with the settlement of Eastern European steppes, Cossack food culture incorporated elements of various traditions, including European, Central Asian and Caucasian cuisines.

Foods and products

=Fish and seafood=

File:Taran'ka.jpg

Many Cossack hosts were named after rivers along which their members would settle (Dnieper, Amur, Volga, Don, Yenisey, Kuban, Terek, Ussuri, and Yaik), and this connection has influenced the Cossack diet, which is dominated by an abundance of fish dishes. In Ivan Kotliarevsky's Eneida sturgeon, herring and roach are mentioned among the fish consumed by the poem's heroes, who were inspired by Zaporozhian Cossacks. Ukrainian ethnographer Mykola Markevych also mentioned dishes like borshch with fish, loaches with horseradish, cutlets made of pike or crucian carp, which were popular among Ukrainian Cossacks.

Social elite of the Hetmanate would also use imported fish such as Dutch herring, eels, flounders, lampreys, salmon as well as cuttlefish. Some other local fish species popular during that time included carp, catfish, common bream, sander. Much of the fish consumed by Cossacks in Ukrainian lands was salted or dried. Fish trade between Ukraine and the Black Sea region during the Cossack era was controlled by chumaks, but much of the catch was done locally in rivers, such as the Dnieper and Desna, or in ponds.{{Cite web |date=2025-02-26 |title=Забута осетрина і всюдисуща тараня. Риба в раціоні населення Гетьманщини |url= https://localhistory.org.ua/texts/statti/zabuta-osetrina-i-vsiudisushcha-tarania-riba-v-ratsioni-naselennia-getmanshchini/ |access-date=2025-04-06 }}

Among Don Cossacks baked carp or bream are still popular, and they prepare soups and stews with fish, such as ukha and [https://ukrainefood.info/recipes/soups/28-kulish kulesh]. The Don Cossacks' fish dishes include sturgeon, balyk, Don herring, scherba (ukha), and small fish fried with onions and eggs.{{Cite web |title=Казачья кухня - Государственный музей-заповедник М.А Шолохова |url=http://www.sholokhov.ru/edge/kitchen/ |access-date=2023-04-09 |website=www.sholokhov.ru}}

=Other dishes=

File:Varenyky opischnya 03.jpg

Typical food consumed by Zaporozhian Cossacks consisted of milled grains and flour and included traditional Ukrainian dishes such as kasha, {{ill|kulish|uk|куліш (страва)}}, {{ill|teteria|uk|тетеря}} and {{ill|solomakha|uk|соломаха}}. During campaigns Cossacks would be supplied by the hetman administration with basic rations consisting of flour, breadcrumbs, groats and meat. In Pereyaslav regiment during 1722-1723 a Cossack artillery serviceman would annually receive almost 200 kg of rye, 50 kg of wheat and 50 kg of buckwheat flour, 50 kg of millet, 15 kg of salo and 55 g of salt. Cossacks would also eat borshch, which was a universal food for all classes in Ukraine during that era.

The diet of the Hetmanate's Cossack elite was much more luxurious in comparison: campaigning in the Caucasus in 1726, Lubny colonel Yakiv Markovych ordered his wife in Ukraine to send him foods such as olives, butter, ham, dried tongues, chicken and turkeys, as well as olive oil and various appetizers.{{Cite web |date=2020-05-19 |title="Хліб насущний" вояків Гетьманщини |url=https://localhistory.org.ua/texts/statti/khlib-nasushchnii-voiakiv-getmanshchini/ |access-date=2025-04-06 }} During the Cossack era beef and game in Ukraine were consumed mostly by the upper classes; the most commonly eaten meat among the lower classes was mutton. {{Cite web |date=2021-05-31 |title="Ми мали й аристократичну кухню", - Олексій Сокирко, автор книжки про гастрономію Гетьманщини |url=https://localhistory.org.ua/texts/interviu/mi-mali-i-aristokratichnu-kukhniu-oleksii-sokirko-avtor-knizhki-pro-gastronomiiu-getmanshchini/ |access-date=2025-04-06 }}

Don Cossacks traditionally eat porridges, noodles, bread and pies. {{Cite web |date=2016-04-16 |title=Казачья снедь и упоминание о ней в ранних рассказах М.А. Шолохова {{!}} Вешенский базар - станица Вешенская и все о ней: история, казачество, Дон, Шолохов, Шолоховский район, земляки |url=http://veshki-bazar.ru/docs/kazachya-kuxnya/kazachya-sned-i-upominanie-o-nej-v-rannix-rasskazax-m-a-sholoxova/#more-437 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160416220115/http://veshki-bazar.ru/docs/kazachya-kuxnya/kazachya-sned-i-upominanie-o-nej-v-rannix-rasskazax-m-a-sholoxova/#more-437 |archive-date=2016-04-16 |access-date=2023-04-09}} Stuffed cabbage rolls and aspic{{Cite web |title=Вёшенский базар |url=http://veshki-bazar.narod.ru/sholokhov_kitchen.htm |access-date=2023-04-09 |website=veshki-bazar.narod.ru}} are also common. A well-known Don dish is watermelon pickled in brine, which is often used as an appetizer for strong alcoholic drinks.

Kuban Cossacks eat borscht, varenyky (dumplings stuffed of potatoes or berries), pancakes, and shish kebabs. Goulash is common in the cuisine of the Cossacks of Southern Russia. The most common soups are okroshka and shulum (a thick soup of broth, meat, and potatoes). Meat (usually pork and poultry) is usually baked in the oven. The round bread palyanytsia is surrounded with honors.{{Cite web |title=Казачий кулинарный рай / НГ-Регионы / Независимая газета |url=https://www.ng.ru/ngregions/2006-02-06/14_don.html |access-date=2023-04-09 |website=www.ng.ru}}

=Desserts=

File:Wattermelon.jpg

Dewberry, fried berries and honey were mentioned as food by Zaporozhian Cossack colonel Yakiv Markovych in early 18th century.{{Cite web |date=2020-05-19 |title="Хліб насущний" вояків Гетьманщини |url=https://localhistory.org.ua/texts/statti/khlib-nasushchnii-voiakiv-getmanshchini/ |access-date=2025-04-06 }} A traditional Don Cossack dessert is nardek (watermelon honey). It is usually eaten with bursak (bursachki). The influence of oriental cuisine is seen in the use of raisins, which are added to porridge.{{Cite web |date=2017-04-22 |title=«Нардек» - арбузный мед по-казачьи {{!}} Вольная Станица |url=http://www.fstanitsa.ru/way/nardek-arbuznyi-med-po-kazachi |access-date=2023-04-09 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170422222638/http://www.fstanitsa.ru/way/nardek-arbuznyi-med-po-kazachi |archive-date=2017-04-22 }}

=Drinks=

Consumption of coffee was a traditional attribute of Ukrainian Cossack starshina.{{Cite web |date=2021-05-31 |title="Ми мали й аристократичну кухню", - Олексій Сокирко, автор книжки про гастрономію Гетьманщини |url=https://localhistory.org.ua/texts/interviu/mi-mali-i-aristokratichnu-kukhniu-oleksii-sokirko-avtor-knizhki-pro-gastronomiiu-getmanshchini/ |access-date=2025-04-06 }} Drinks such as juice, tea and coffee were mentioned by Zaporozhian Cossack officer Yakiv Markovych in early 18th century.{{Cite web |date=2020-05-19 |title="Хліб насущний" вояків Гетьманщини |url=https://localhistory.org.ua/texts/statti/khlib-nasushchnii-voiakiv-getmanshchini/ |access-date=2025-04-06 }} Common drinks among the Don Cossacks include uzvar{{Cite web |title=Казачья кухня - Государственный музей-заповедник М.А Шолохова |url=http://www.sholokhov.ru/edge/kitchen/ |access-date=2023-04-09 |website=www.sholokhov.ru}} (a sweet, nonalcoholic drink made with dried fruits) and kvass (a low-alcohol grain-based beverage). Kuban Cossacks drink kissels, brews, and Iryan, a Cossack variant of ayran similar to suzma.{{Cite web |title=Казачий кулинарный рай / НГ-Регионы / Независимая газета |url=https://www.ng.ru/ngregions/2006-02-06/14_don.html |access-date=2023-04-09 |website=www.ng.ru}}

=Alcohol=

File:UkrainianVodkaStill.jpg) distillery in the Museum of folk architecture and everyday life in Pereyaslav]]

Among products ordered by Zaporozhian Cossack officer Yakiv Markovych from Ukraine during his service in the Caucasus were "wine and good horilkas", as well as prune brandy.{{Cite web |date=2020-05-19 |title="Хліб насущний" вояків Гетьманщини |url=https://localhistory.org.ua/texts/statti/khlib-nasushchnii-voiakiv-getmanshchini/ |access-date=2025-04-06 }} Historically, a traditional alcoholic beverage of the Don Cossacks was wine, and winemaking emerged on the Don with the appearance of the first Greek colonies, approximately in the sixth-century B.C.E. The ancient Greek historian Strabo wrote that during his travels, he visited the mouth of the Don, where the vines were covered with earth for the winter to protect them from snow and frost.{{Cite web |title=Доброй чарочке – любо! |url=http://www.ng.ru/regions/2005-10-31/13_kazak.html?ysclid=lg9kifew7w460282829 |access-date=2023-04-09 |website=www.ng.ru |language=en}} However, when the Polovtsians came to the Don region, followed by the Tatar-Mongols, winemaking disappeared.Peter the Great had an opportunity to revive viticulture on the Don. In 1697, the tsar ordered the Azov governor, Prozorovsky, "to start vineyards". Soon, wine became the most popular drink of the Don again.

Utensils and etiquette

Cossacks commonly use bowls and wooden spoons. Cossacks eat three times a day: breakfast, lunch and dinner. Before eating, they wash and wipe their hands. The eldest at the table usually signals the start of the meal. They often eat from a common bowl. Drinks are served in pitchers.{{citation needed|date=May 2024}}

References