Heligoland

The island had no distinct name before the 19th century. It was often referred to by variants of the High German Heiligland ('holy land') and once even as the island of the Holy Virgin Ursula. Theodor Siebs summarized the critical discussion of the name in the 19th century in 1909 with the thesis that, based on the Frisian self-designation of the Heligolanders as Halunder, the island name meant 'high land' (similar to Hallig).Theodor Siebs: Helgoland und seine Sprache. Cuxhaven 1909, pp. 20 ff. In the following discussion by Jürgen Spanuth, Wolfgang Laur again proposed the original name of Heiligland.Wolfgang Laur: Fositesland und die Bernsteininsel. In: ZSHG, Vol. 7475 (1951), p. 425. The variant Helgoland, which has appeared since the 16th century, is said to have been created by scholars who Latinized a North Frisian form Helgeland, using it to refer to a legendary hero, Helgi.

Reallexikon der germanischen Altertumskunde, Vol. 14, Artikel Helgoland. Berlin 1999.

For example, in Heike Grahn-Hoek: [https://books.google.com/books?id=_PzVcma-vHgC&dq=Helgoland+heiliges+Land&pg=PA451 Online Heiliges Land – Helgoland und seine früheren Namen.] In: Uwe Ludwig, Thomas Schilp (eds.): Nomen et fraternitas. Festschrift für Dieter Geuenich zum 65. Geburtstag (Supplementary volumes to the Reallexikon des Germanischen Altertums). De Gruyter, Berlin 2008, ISBN 978-3-11-020238-0, p. 480.

The discussion is complicated by a disagreement as to which of the listed names really refers to the island of Helgoland, and by a desire for the island still to be seen as holy today.For example: Roter Flint und Heiliges Land. Helgoland zwischen Vorgeschichte und Mittelalter. Neumünster 2009, p. 70.

File:Map helgoland 1910.jpg

Heligoland is located {{convert|46|km|nmi|frac=2|abbr=off}} off the German coastline and consists of two islands: the populated triangular {{convert|1|km2|acre|abbr=off|sigfig=1|adj=on|spell=in}} main island ({{Lang|de|Hauptinsel}}) to the west, and the {{anchor|Düne}}{{Lang|de|Düne}} ('dune', Heligolandic: {{lang|frr|de Halem}}) to the east. Heligoland generally refers to the former island. {{lang|de|Düne|italic=no}} is somewhat smaller at {{cvt|0.7|km2|acre}}, lower, and surrounded by sand beaches. It is not permanently inhabited, but is today the location of Heligoland's airfield.

The main island is commonly divided into the {{Lang|de|Unterland}} ('Lower Land', Heligolandic: {{lang|frr|deät Deelerlun}}) at sea level (to the right on the photograph, where the harbour is located), the {{Lang|de|Oberland}} ('Upper Land', Heligolandic: {{lang|frr|deät Boperlun}}) consisting of the plateau visible in the photographs, and the {{Lang|de|Mittelland}} ('Middle Land') between them on one side of the island. The {{Lang|de|Mittelland}} came into being in 1947 as a result of explosions detonated by the British Royal Navy (the so-called "Big Bang"; see below).

The main island also features small beaches in the north and the south and drops to the sea {{convert|50|m|ft}} high in the north, west and southwest. In the latter, the ground continues to drop underwater to a depth of {{convert|56|m|ft}} below sea level. Heligoland's most famous landmark is the {{Lang|de|Lange Anna}} ('Long Anna' or 'Tall Anna'), a free-standing rock column (or stack), {{convert|47|m|ft}} high, found northwest of the island proper.

The two islands were connected until 1720 when the natural connection was destroyed by a storm flood. The highest point is on the main island, reaching {{convert|61|m|ft}} above sea level.

Although culturally and geographically closer to North Frisia in the German district of {{Lang|de|Nordfriesland}}, the two islands are part of the district of Pinneberg in the state of Schleswig-Holstein. The main island has a good harbour and is frequented mostly by sailing yachts.

{{Panorama

|height=200

|image=File:Helgolandpanorama vom Pinneberg 2018.jpg

|caption=Panoramic view over Heligoland from the highest point

}}

File:Heligoland-fromair-1919.jpg showing new fortifications in 1919]]

File:Insel Helgoland um 1929-30 color.jpg

File:Helgoland, Germany, ca 1890-1900.jpg

File:Cist Grave from Helgoland in Neues Museum, Berlin.jpg]]

The German Bight and the area around the island are known to have been inhabited since prehistoric times. Flint tools have been recovered from the bottom of the sea surrounding Heligoland. On the Oberland, prehistoric burial mounds were visible until the late 19th century, and excavations showed skeletons and artefacts. Moreover, prehistoric copper plates have been found under water near the island; those plates were almost certainly made on the Oberland.{{cite book |title=Heligoland, Past and Present |first=Alex |last=Ritsema |year=2007 |pages=21–3 |publisher=Lulu Press |isbn=978-1-84753-190-2}}

In 697, Radbod, the last Frisian king, retreated to the then-single island after his defeat by the Franks – or so it is written in the Life of Willebrord by Alcuin. By 1231, the island was listed as the property of the Danish king Valdemar II. Archaeological findings from the 12th to 14th centuries suggest that copper ore was processed on the island.{{cite book |editor=University of Kiel, Schleswig-Holstein State Archaeological Museum |title=Schleswig-Holstein in 150 archäologischen Funden |language=de |publisher=Karl Wachholtz |location=Neumünster |year=1986 |isbn=978-3-529-01829-9}}{{page needed|date=May 2019}}{{page needed|date=May 2019}}

There is a general understanding that the name "Heligoland" means "Holy Land" (compare modern Dutch and German heilig, "holy").[https://books.google.com/books?id=8HO-fAcUrgsC&pg=PA39 Heligoland, Past and Present, p. 39], Alex Ritsema In the course of the centuries several alternative theories have been proposed to explain the name, from a Danish king Heligo to a Frisian word, hallig, meaning "salt marsh island". The 1911 Encyclopædia Britannica suggests Hallaglun, or Halligland, i.e. "land of banks, which cover and uncover".{{cite EB1911|wstitle=Heligoland |volume=13 |page=223}}

Traditional economic activities included fishing, hunting birds and seals, wrecking and – very important for many overseas powers – piloting overseas ships into the harbours of Hanseatic League cities such as Bremen and Hamburg. In some periods Heligoland was an excellent base point for huge herring catches. Until 1714 ownership switched several times between Denmark–Norway and the Duchy of Schleswig, with one period of control by Hamburg. In August 1714, it was conquered by Denmark–Norway, and it remained Danish until 1807.Encyclopaedia Britannica, 15th Edition, Micropaedia Volume IV, page 999, {{ISBN|0-85229-400-X}}

File:Heligolandstamp.jpg and denominated in Hamburg schillings. From 1875 its postage stamps were denominated in both sterling and gold marks.]]

On 11 September 1807, during the Napoleonic Wars, {{HMS|Carrier|1805|6}} brought to the Admiralty the despatches from Admiral Thomas MacNamara Russell announcing Heligoland's capitulation to the British.{{London Gazette |issue=16064 |page=1192 |date=12 September 1807 }} Heligoland became a centre of resistance and intrigue against Napoleon. Denmark then ceded Heligoland to George III of the United Kingdom by the Treaty of Kiel (14 January 1814). Thousands of Germans came to Britain and joined the King's German Legion via Heligoland.

The British annexation of Heligoland was ratified by the Treaty of Paris signed on 30 May 1814, as part of a number of territorial reallocations following the abdication of Napoleon as Emperor of the French.

The prime reason at the time for Britain's retention of a small and seemingly worthless acquisition was to restrict any future French naval aggression against the Scandinavian or German states.Ashley Cooper, page 40 History Today January 2014 In the event, no effort was made during the period of British administration to make use of the islands for military purposes, partly for financial reasons but principally because the Royal Navy considered Heligoland to be too exposed as a forward base.Ashley Cooper, page 41 History Today January 2014

In 1826, Heligoland became a seaside spa and soon turned into a popular tourist resort for the European upper class. The island attracted artists and writers, especially from Germany and Austria who apparently enjoyed the comparatively liberal atmosphere, including Heinrich Heine and August Heinrich Hoffmann von Fallersleben. More vitally it was a refuge for revolutionaries of the 1830s and the 1848 German revolution.

File:Rudolf Jordan Heiratsantrag a Helgoland.JPG, 1843]]

As related in The Leisure Hour, it was "a land where there are no bankers, no lawyers, and no crime; where all gratuities are strictly forbidden, the landladies are all honest and the boatmen take no tips",{{Cite book |title=Heligoland: The True Story of German Bight and the Island that Britain Betrayed |last=Drower |first=George |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=jjgjAQAAIAAJ&q=%22a+land+where+there+are+no+bankers,+no+lawyers,+and+no+crime;+where+all+gratuities+are+strictly+forbidden,+the+landladies+are+all+honest+and+the+boatmen+take+no+tips%22 |publisher=The History Press |year=2002 |isbn=9780752472805 |pages=80}} while The English Illustrated Magazine provided a description in the most glowing terms: "No one should go there who cannot be content with the charms of brilliant light, of ever-changing atmospheric effects, of a land free from the countless discomforts of a large and busy population, and of an air that tastes like draughts of life itself."{{cite journal |last1=Armstrong |first1=Walter |date=1889–1890 |title=Heligoland |url=https://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=pst.000066656012 |journal=The English Illustrated Magazine |volume=7 |pages=773 |access-date=18 June 2020}}

Britain ceded the islands to Germany in 1890 in the Heligoland–Zanzibar Treaty. The newly unified Germany was concerned about a foreign power controlling land from which it could command the western entrance to the militarily-important Kiel Canal, then under construction along with other naval installations in the area and thus traded for it. A "grandfathering"/optant approach prevented the inhabitants of the islands from forfeiting advantages because of this imposed change of status.

Heligoland has an important place in the history of the study of ornithology, and especially the understanding of bird migration. The book Heligoland, an Ornithological Observatory by Heinrich Gätke, published in German in 1890 and in English in 1895, described an astonishing array of migrant birds on the island and was a major influence on future studies of bird migration.{{cite book |last=Gätke |first=Heinrich |date=1895 |title=Heligoland, an Ornithological Observatory |translator=Rudolph Rosenstock |place=Edinburgh |publisher=David Douglas |url=https://archive.org/details/heligolandasorni00gtrich}}

In 1892, the Biological Station of Helgoland was founded by phycologist Paul Kuckuck, a student of Johannes Reinke (leading marine phycologist).{{cite journal |last1=Mollenhauer |first1=D. |last2=Lüning |first2=K. |title=Helgoland and the history of research on marine benthic algae |journal=Helgoländer Meeresuntersuchungen |date=1988 |volume=42 |issue=3–4 |pages=385–425 |doi=10.1007/BF02365618 |s2cid=9189738 |doi-access=free|bibcode=1988HM.....42..385M }}

Under the German Empire, the islands became a major naval base, and during the First World War the civilian population was evacuated to the mainland. The island was fortified with concrete gun emplacements along its cliffs similar to the Rock of Gibraltar. Island defences included 364 mounted guns including 142 {{convert|42|cm|in|adj=on}} disappearing guns overlooking shipping channels defended with ten rows of naval mines.{{cite book |last=Halsey |first=Francis Whiting |title=History of the World War |publisher=Funk & Wagnalls Company |volume=Ten |date=1920 |location=New York |page=15}} The first naval engagement of the war, the Battle of Heligoland Bight, was fought nearby in the first month of the war. The islanders returned in 1918, but during the Nazi era the naval base was reactivated.

Werner Heisenberg (1901–1976) first formulated the equation underlying his theory of quantum mechanics while on Heligoland in the 1920s. While a student of Arnold Sommerfeld at Munich, Heisenberg first met the Danish physicist Niels Bohr in 1922 at the Bohr Festival, Göttingen.{{cite web |last1=Schönhammer |first1=K. |title=Göttingen and Quantum Mechanics |url=https://www.theorie.physik.uni-goettingen.de/~schoenh/QMGemit.pdf |publisher=University of Göttingen |access-date=17 January 2023}} He and Bohr went for long hikes in the mountains and discussed the failure of existing theories to account for the new experimental results on the quantum structure of matter. Following these discussions, Heisenberg plunged into several months of intensive theoretical research but met with continual frustration. Finally, suffering from a severe attack of hay fever that his aspirin and cocaine treatment was failing to alleviate,{{cite book |last1=Rechenberg |first1=Helmut |title=Werner Heisenberg – Die Sprache der Atome. Leben und Wirken |date=2010 |publisher=Springer |isbn=978-3-540-69221-8 |page=322}} he retreated to the treeless (and pollenless) island of Heligoland in the summer of 1925. There he conceived the basis of the quantum theory.

In 1937, construction began on a major reclamation project ({{lang|de|Project Hummerschere}}) intended to expand existing naval facilities and restore the island to its pre-1629 dimensions, restoring large areas which had been eroded by the sea. The project was largely abandoned after the start of World War II and was never completed.

The area was the setting of the aerial Battle of the Heligoland Bight in 1939, a result of Royal Air Force bombing raids on Kriegsmarine warships in the area. The waters surrounding the island were frequently mined by Allied aircraft.

Heligoland also had a military function as a sea fortress in the Second World War. Completed and ready for use were the submarine bunker North Sea III, coastal artillery, an air-raid shelter system with extensive bunker tunnels, and an airfield used by air force – {{lang|de|Jagdstaffel Helgoland}} (April to October 1943).{{cite web |last=Holm |first=Michael |title=Jagdstaffel Helgoland |language=de |url=http://www.ww2.dk/air/jagd/helgoland.html |access-date=21 February 2010}} Forced labour of, among others, citizens of the Soviet Union was used in the construction of these military installations.[http://www.spurensuche-kreis-pinneberg.de/spur/russische-kriegsgefangene-auf-helgoland-entwurf/ Lager russischer Offiziere und Soldaten, Helgoland Nordost], auf spurensuche-kreis-pinneberg.de

On 3 December 1939, Heligoland was directly bombed by the Allies for the first time. The attack, by twenty four Wellington bombers of 38, 115, and 149 squadrons of the Royal Air Force, failed to destroy the German warships at anchor.Seekrieg: [http://www.wlb-stuttgart.de/seekrieg/39-12.htm 1939 Dezember] (Württemberg State Library, Stuttgart). Retrieved 4 July 2015.

In three days in 1940, the Royal Navy lost three submarines near Heligoland: {{HMS|Undine|N48|6}} on 6 January, {{HMS|Seahorse|98S|2}} on 7 January and {{HMS|Starfish|19S|2}} on 9 January.bremerhaven.de. [http://www.bremerhaven.de/meer-erleben/stadtleben/unter-den-wellen-teil-3-britische-u-boote-vor-helgoland.55640.html Unter den Wellen Teil 3 – Britische U-Boote vor Helgoland] {{webarchive |url=https://archive.today/20150613121400/http://www.bremerhaven.de/meer-erleben/stadtleben/unter-den-wellen-teil-3-britische-u-boote-vor-helgoland.55640.html |date=13 June 2015 }}. February 2013.

Early in the war, the island was generally unaffected by bombing raids. Through the development of the Luftwaffe, the island had largely lost its strategic importance. The {{lang|de|Jagdstaffel Helgoland}}, temporarily used for defense against Allied bombing raids, was equipped with a rare variant of the Messerschmitt Bf 109 fighter originally designed for use on aircraft carriers.

Not long before the war ended in 1945, Georg Braun and Erich Friedrichs succeeded in forming a resistance group on the island. Shortly before they were to execute their plans, however, they were betrayed by two members of the group. About twenty men were arrested on 18 April 1945; fourteen of them were transported to Cuxhaven. After a short trial, five resisters were executed by firing squad at Cuxhaven-Sahlenburg on 21 April 1945 by the German authorities.Wolfgang Stelljes. Verräter kam aus den eigenen Reihen. In: Journal (weekend edition of Nordwest Zeitung), Volume 70, No. 84 (11{{ndash}}12 April 2015), s. 1.

To honour them, in April 2010 the Helgoland Museum installed six stumbling blocks on the roads of Heligoland. Their names are Erich P. J. Friedrichs, Georg E. Braun, Karl Fnouka, Kurt A. Pester, Martin O. Wachtel, and Heinrich Prüß.

With two waves of bombing raids on 18 and 19 April 1945, 1,000 Allied aircraft dropped about 7,000 bombs on the islands. The populace took shelter in air raid shelters. The German military suffered heavy casualties during the raids.Imke Zimmermann: [http://www.fr-online.de/zeitgeschichte/im-schutz-der-roten-felsen---bunker-auf-helgoland,1477344,2772536.html Im Schutz der roten Felsen – Bunker auf Helgoland], vom 19. April 2005, auf fr-online.de The bomb attacks rendered the island unsafe, and it was totally evacuated.

{{multiple image

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| image1 = The German Navy in the Second World War HU104923.jpg

| alt1 =

| caption1 = Aerial view of the naval base, taken from the south-west {{circa|1918}}...

| image2 = Insel Helgoland 2.JPG

| alt2 =

| caption2 = ...and a similar view in 2012, showing a large crater at the south end of the island.

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From 1945 to 1952 the uninhabited islands fell within the British Occupation zone. On 18 April 1947, the Royal Navy simultaneously detonated 6,700 metric tons of explosives ("Operation Big Bang" or "British Bang"), successfully destroying the island's principal military installations (namely, the submarine pens, the coastal batteries at the north and south ends of the island and {{cvt|8+1/2|mi|km|0|order=flip|disp=or}} of main storage tunnels) while leaving the town, already damaged by Allied bombing during the Second World War, "looking little worse" (according to an observer quoted in The Guardian newspaper).{{cite news |url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2022/apr/19/naval-installations-blown-up-in-heligoland-1947 |title=Naval installations blown up in Heligoland – archive, 1947 |newspaper=The Guardian |date=19 April 2022}} The destruction of the submarine pens resulted in the creation of the Mittelland crater. The British later used the island, from which the population had been evacuated, as a bombing range. The explosion was one of the biggest single non-nuclear detonations in history.{{cite news |date=13 April 2007 |url=http://www.spiegel.de/panorama/zeitgeschichte/0,1518,477076,00.html |title=Der Tag, an dem Helgoland der Megabombe trotzte |work=Der Spiegel |language=de |access-date=13 April 2007}}{{cite book |url={{Google books|nJTj4pD_XekC&pg |plainurl=yes}} |title=The Royal Navy and German naval disarmament, 1942–1947 |first=Chris |last=Madsen |page=206 |publisher=Psychology Press |year=1998 |isbn=978-0-7-1464-823-1}}

File:DBP 1952 152 Helgoland.jpg issued by {{lang|de|Deutsche Bundespost}} to commemorate the 1952 restoration of Helgoland]]

On 20 December 1950, two students from Heidelberg{{mdash}}René Leudesdorff and Georg von Hatzfeld, accompanied by journalists{{mdash}}spent two days and a night on the island, planting in various combinations the flags of West Germany, the European Movement International and Heligoland. They returned with others on 27 December and on 29 December were joined by Heidelberg history professor and publicist Hubertus zu Löwenstein.{{NDB|15|100|101|Hubertus Prinz zu Löwenstein-Wertheim-Freudenberg|Hermann Ehmer|118574000}} The occupation was ended by British authorities, with cooperation of West German police, on 3 January 1951. The event started a movement to restore the islands to Germany, which gained the support of the West German parliament. On 1 March 1952, Heligoland was placed under West German control and the former inhabitants were allowed to return.{{cite web |url=http://www.ndr.de/land_leute/norddeutsche_geschichte/chronologie/fuenfzigerjahre/helgolandrueckgabe101.html |title=Wie Helgoland wieder deutsch wurde|publisher=Norddeutscher Rundfunk |date=1 March 2012 |language=de |access-date=16 February 2025}} The first of March is an official holiday on the island. The government of West Germany cleared a significant quantity of unexploded ordnance and rebuilt the houses before allowing its citizens to resettle there.

File:Helgoland Oberland.jpg, control station of the {{Lang|de|Bundeswehr}} and network tower]]

Heligoland, like the small exclave Büsingen am Hochrhein, is now a holiday resort and enjoys a tax-exempt status, being part of Germany and the EU but excluded from the EU VAT area and customs union.{{CELEX|02006L0112-20240101|text=Council Directive 2006/112/EC of 28 November 2006 on the common system of value added tax (consolidated text)}}{{CELEX|02013R0952-20221212|text=Regulation (EU) No 952/2013 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 9 October 2013 laying down the Union Customs Code (consolidated text)}} Consequently, much of the economy is founded on sales of cigarettes, alcoholic beverages, and perfume to tourists who visit the islands. The ornithological heritage of Heligoland has also been re-established, with the Heligoland Bird Observatory, now managed by the {{lang|de|Ornithologische Arbeitsgemeinschaft Helgoland e.V.}} ("Ornithological Society of Heligoland") which was founded in 1991. A search and rescue (SAR) base of the DGzRS, the {{lang|de|Deutsche Gesellschaft zur Rettung Schiffbrüchiger}} (German Maritime Search and Rescue Service), is located on Heligoland.

Before the island was connected to the mainland network by a submarine cable in 2009, electricity on Heligoland was generated by a local diesel plant.

Heligoland was the site of a trial of GROWIAN, a large wind-turbine testing project. In 1990, a 1.2 MW turbine of the MAN type WKA 60 was installed. Besides technical problems, the turbine was not lightning-proof and insurance companies would not provide coverage. The wind energy project was viewed as a failure by the islanders and was stopped.[http://www.tagesspiegel.de/politik/helgoland-weil-der-wind-sich-dreht/7135234.html Helgoland Weil der Wind sich dreht], Der Tagesspiegel, 15 September 2012 Dagmar Dehmer, in GermanWind Energy Comes of Age, Paul GipeJohn Wiley & Sons, 14 April 1995, p. 108

The Heligoland Power Cable has a length of {{convert|53|km|mi}} and is one of the longest AC submarine power cables in the world and the longest of its kind in Germany.{{cite web |url=http://www.kreiszeitung-wesermarsch.de/Home/region/nordenham_Mit-der-Zukunft-Geschichte-schreiben-_arid,159098_regid,1.html |title=Mit der Zukunft Geschichte schreiben |language=de |work=Dithmarscher Kreiszeitung |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110719053515/http://www.kreiszeitung-wesermarsch.de/Home/region/nordenham_Mit-der-Zukunft-Geschichte-schreiben-_arid%2C159098_regid%2C1.html |archive-date=19 July 2011}} It was manufactured by the North German Seacable Works in a single piece and was laid by the barge Nostag 10 in 2009. The cable is designed for an operational voltage of 30 kV, and reaches the German mainland at Sankt Peter-Ording.

Plans to re-enlarge the land bridge between different parts of the island by means of land reclamation came up between 2008 and 2010.{{cite news |url=https://www.welt.de/die-welt/vermischtes/hamburg/article8068278/Plaene-fuer-Landaufschuettung-auf-Helgoland-vom-Tisch.html |title=Pläne für Landaufschüttung auf Helgoland vom Tisch |language=de |work=Die Welt |date=16 June 2010 |access-date=17 September 2015}} However, the local community voted against the project.{{cite web |url=http://www.helgoland.de/fileadmin/Mediendatenbank/PDF-Dokumente/B%C3%BCrgerbrief%20zum%20B%C3%BCrgerentscheid%202011.pdf |title=Informationen zum Bürgerentscheid am 26. Juni 2011 |language=de |publisher=Gemeinde Helgoland |date=14 June 2011 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110919211411/http://www.helgoland.de/fileadmin/Mediendatenbank/PDF-Dokumente/B%C3%BCrgerbrief%20zum%20B%C3%BCrgerentscheid%202011.pdf |archive-date=19 September 2011}}{{cite news |url=https://www.faz.net/suche/?query=Inselvergr%C3%B6%C3%9Ferung&suchbegriffImage.x=0&suchbegriffImage.y=0&resultsPerPage=20 |title=Helgoländer stimmen gegen Inselvergrößerung |language=de |work=Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung |date=27 June 2011}} {{subscription required}}

Since 2013, a new industrial site is being expanded on the southern harbour. E.ON, RWE and WindMW plan to manage operation and services of large offshore windparks from Heligoland.{{cite web |url=http://www.rwe.com/web/cms/de/37110/rwe/presse-news/pressemitteilung/?pmid=4006615 |title=RWE, E.ON und WindMW stellen Pläne für Betriebsbasis auf Helgoland für Offshore-Windkraftwerke vor |language=de |publisher=RWE Innogy |date=5 August 2011 |access-date=8 August 2014 |archive-date=10 September 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110910185440/http://www.rwe.com/web/cms/de/37110/rwe/presse-news/pressemitteilung/?pmid=4006615 |url-status=dead}}{{cite magazine |first=Anne-Katrin |last=Wehrmann |title=Eine Insel im Wandel – vom 'Fuselfelsen' zum modernen 'Helgoland 3.0' |language=de |magazine=Hansa Maritime Journal |issue=12 |year=2012 |pages=46–49}}{{cite magazine |first=Anne-Katrin |last=Wehrmann |title=Offshore-Branche ist auf Helgoland angekommen |language=de |magazine=Hansa Maritime Journal |issue=12 |year=2013 |pages=34–5}} The range had been cleared of leftover ammunition.{{cite magazine |title=Helgoland erfindet sich grundlegend neu |language=de |magazine=Segler-Zeitung |issue=6 |year=2013 |pages=144–5}}

At the beginning of 2020, 1,399 people lived on Heligoland.{{cite web |url=https://www.statistik-nord.de/fileadmin/Dokumente/Statistische_Berichte/bevoelkerung/A_I_2_S/A_I_2_vj_201_Zensus_SH.pdf |title=Bevölkerung der Gemeinden in Schleswig-Holstein 1. Quartal 2020 |publisher=Amt für Hamburg und Schleswig-Holstein |access-date=19 November 2020}} As of 2018, the population is mostly Lutheran (63%), while a minority (18%) is Catholic.{{cite web |url=https://www.evangelische-zeitung.de/glaubt-man-auf-helgoland-anders-frau-pastorin/ |title=Glaubt man auf Helgoland anders, Frau Pastorin? |date=18 January 2016 |publisher=Evangelische Zeitung |access-date=19 November 2020}}{{cite web |url=https://www.neue-kirchenzeitung.de/kleine-insel-vor-gro%C3%9Fem-wandel |title=Kleine Insel vor großem Wandel |publisher=Neue KirchenZeitung |access-date=19 November 2020}} There is a multi-sport club on the island, VfL Fosite Helgoland, of which an estimated 500 islanders are members.{{cite web |title=Football thriving on windy, Covid-free Heligoland |website=FIFA |date=3 March 2021 |url=https://www.fifa.com/news/football-thriving-on-windy-covid-free-heligoland |access-date=27 April 2023}}

The climate of Heligoland is typical of an offshore climate (Köppen: Cfb; Trewartha: Dolk), being almost free of pollen and thus ideal for people with pollen allergies. Since there is no land mass in the vicinity, temperatures rarely drop below {{convert|0|°C|°F|0}} even in the winter. At times, winter temperatures can be higher than in Hamburg by up to {{convert|10|C-change}} because cold air from the east is warmed up over the North Sea. While spring tends to be comparatively cool, autumn on Heligoland is often longer and warmer than on the mainland, and statistically, the climate is generally sunnier.

Owing to the mild climate, figs have reportedly been grown on the island as early as 1911,{{cite journal |title=Neues zur Flora von Helgoland |first=Klaus |last=Adolphi |language=de |date=March 2008 |journal=Braunschweiger Geobotanische Arbeiten |volume=9 |pages=9–19 |url=http://rzbl04.biblio.etc.tu-bs.de/docportal/servlets/MCRFileNodeServlet/DocPortal_derivate_00012648/Adolphi_Flora_Helgoland.pdf}}{{Dead link|date=November 2021 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }} Citing {{cite magazine |last=Kuckuck |first=P. |year=1911 |title=Reife Feigen und subtropische Pflanzen auf Helgoland |magazine=Die Heimat |location=Kiel |volume=21 |pages=19–24 |language=de}} and a 2005 article mentioned Japanese bananas, figs, agaves, palm trees and other exotic plants that had been planted on Heligoland and were thriving.{{cite news |url=http://www.spiegel.de/reise/fernweh/0,1518,371100,00.html |title=Helgoland und Sansibar: Die ungleichen Schwestern |language=de |work=Der Spiegel |date=26 August 2005 |first=Dörte |last=Saße}} There still is an old mulberry tree in the Upper Town.

The Heligoland weather station has recorded the following extreme values:

• Its highest temperature was {{convert|28.7|C|F}} on 25 July 1994.
• Its lowest temperature was {{convert|-11.2|C|F}} on 15 February 1956.
• Its greatest annual precipitation was {{convert|1069.0|mm|in|abbr=on}} in 1998.
• Its least annual precipitation was {{convert|394.2|mm|in|abbr=on}} in 1959.
• The longest annual sunshine was 2078 hours in 1959.
• The shortest annual sunshine was 1461.3 hours in 1985.

{{Weather box

|metric first = Y

|single line = Y

|location = Heligoland (1991–2020 normals, extremes 1952–present)

|Jan record high C = 11.6

|Feb record high C = 11.1

|Mar record high C = 14.9

|Apr record high C = 19.6

|May record high C = 23.9

|Jun record high C = 25.6

|Jul record high C = 28.7

|Aug record high C = 28.1

|Sep record high C = 24.4

|Oct record high C = 19.5

|Nov record high C = 16.8

|Dec record high C = 12.9

|year record high C = 28.7

|Jan avg record high C = 8.6

|Feb avg record high C = 7.7

|Mar avg record high C = 9.8

|Apr avg record high C = 14.9

|May avg record high C = 18.9

|Jun avg record high C = 22.5

|Jul avg record high C = 24.2

|Aug avg record high C = 24.2

|Sep avg record high C = 20.6

|Oct avg record high C = 17.1

|Nov avg record high C = 13.4

|Dec avg record high C = 10.3

|year avg record high C = 25.4

|Jan high C = 5.1

|Feb high C = 4.6

|Mar high C = 6.2

|Apr high C = 9.8

|May high C = 13.5

|Jun high C = 16.7

|Jul high C = 19.3

|Aug high C = 20.0

|Sep high C = 17.4

|Oct high C = 13.5

|Nov high C = 9.5

|Dec high C = 6.7

|year high C = 11.9

|Jan mean C = 3.8

|Feb mean C = 3.3

|Mar mean C = 4.6

|Apr mean C = 7.6

|May mean C = 11.2

|Jun mean C = 14.4

|Jul mean C = 17.2

|Aug mean C = 17.9

|Sep mean C = 15.7

|Oct mean C = 12.1

|Nov mean C = 8.1

|Dec mean C = 5.3

|year mean C = 10.1

|Jan low C = 2.2

|Feb low C = 1.9

|Mar low C = 3.1

|Apr low C = 5.8

|May low C = 9.3

|Jun low C = 12.6

|Jul low C = 15.3

|Aug low C = 16.1

|Sep low C = 14.0

|Oct low C = 10.5

|Nov low C = 6.6

|Dec low C = 3.7

|year low C = 8.4

|Jan avg record low C = -3.2

|Feb avg record low C = -2.5

|Mar avg record low C = -0.4

|Apr avg record low C = 2.3

|May avg record low C = 5.9

|Jun avg record low C = 9.6

|Jul avg record low C = 12.5

|Aug avg record low C = 12.6

|Sep avg record low C = 10.7

|Oct avg record low C = 6.1

|Nov avg record low C = 1.7

|Dec avg record low C = -1.2

|year avg record low C = -4.5

|Jan record low C = -10.7

|Feb record low C = -11.2

|Mar record low C = -7.0

|Apr record low C = -2.1

|May record low C = 1.6

|Jun record low C = 5.0

|Jul record low C = 7.2

|Aug record low C = 9.0

|Sep record low C = 5.7

|Oct record low C = 1.5

|Nov record low C = -4.0

|Dec record low C = -8.0

|year record low C = -11.2

|precipitation colour = green

|Jan precipitation mm = 62.6

|Feb precipitation mm = 44.9

|Mar precipitation mm = 41.8

|Apr precipitation mm = 35.7

|May precipitation mm = 40.3

|Jun precipitation mm = 56.0

|Jul precipitation mm = 67.8

|Aug precipitation mm = 88.8

|Sep precipitation mm = 88.2

|Oct precipitation mm = 84.7

|Nov precipitation mm = 76.1

|Dec precipitation mm = 73.9

|year precipitation mm = 760.8

|unit precipitation days = 1.0 mm

|Jan precipitation days = 18.6

|Feb precipitation days = 15.1

|Mar precipitation days = 15.3

|Apr precipitation days = 12.8

|May precipitation days = 12.6

|Jun precipitation days = 14.0

|Jul precipitation days = 14.8

|Aug precipitation days = 16.3

|Sep precipitation days = 16.5

|Oct precipitation days = 18.4

|Nov precipitation days = 19.5

|Dec precipitation days = 19.8

|year precipitation days = 193.8

|Jan snow depth cm = 1.6

|Feb snow depth cm = 1.4

|Mar snow depth cm = 0.9

|Apr snow depth cm = 0

|May snow depth cm = 0

|Jun snow depth cm = 0

|Jul snow depth cm = 0

|Aug snow depth cm = 0

|Sep snow depth cm = 0

|Oct snow depth cm = 0

|Nov snow depth cm = trace

|Dec snow depth cm = 1.7

|year snow depth cm = 4.1

|unit snow days = 1.0 cm

|Jan snow days = 1.5

|Feb snow days = 2.0

|Mar snow days = 1.1

|Apr snow days = 0

|May snow days = 0

|Jun snow days = 0

|Jul snow days = 0

|Aug snow days = 0

|Sep snow days = 0

|Oct snow days = 0

|Nov snow days = 0.1

|Dec snow days = 1.2

|year snow days =

|humidity colour = green

|Jan humidity = 85.8

|Feb humidity = 85.4

|Mar humidity = 84.8

|Apr humidity = 82.7

|May humidity = 81.5

|Jun humidity = 81.5

|Jul humidity = 80.7

|Aug humidity = 78.6

|Sep humidity = 77.8

|Oct humidity = 79.2

|Nov humidity = 82.9

|Dec humidity = 84.5

|Jan sun = 49.0

|Feb sun = 73.5

|Mar sun = 137.6

|Apr sun = 204.4

|May sun = 250.8

|Jun sun = 240.4

|Jul sun = 247.5

|Aug sun = 225.0

|Sep sun = 156.4

|Oct sun = 104.9

|Nov sun = 51.3

|Dec sun = 37.4

|year sun = 1778.4

|source 1 = World Meteorological Organization{{cite web

|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20231012155733/https://www.nodc.noaa.gov/archive/arc0216/0253808/1.1/data/0-data/Region-6-WMO-Normals-9120/Germany/CSV/Helgoland_10015.csv

|archive-date = 12 October 2023

|url = https://www.nodc.noaa.gov/archive/arc0216/0253808/1.1/data/0-data/Region-6-WMO-Normals-9120/Germany/CSV/Helgoland_10015.csv

|title = World Meteorological Organization Climate Normals for 1991–2020

|work = World Meteorological Organization Climatological Standard Normals (1991–2020)

|publisher = National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration

|access-date = 13 October 2023}}

|source 2 = Deutscher Wetterdienst / SKlima.de{{cite web

|url = http://sklima.de/datenbank_auswertung.php?tab=2

|title = Monatsauswertung

|website = sklima.de

|publisher = SKlima

|language = de

|access-date = 11 October 2024}}

}}

{{notelist}}

File:Lange-Anna-Helgoland.jpg

File:Lange Anna, Helgoland.JPG

The island of Heligoland is a geological oddity; the presence of the main island's characteristic red sedimentary rock in the middle of the German Bight is unusual. It is the only such formation of cliffs along the continental coast of the North Sea. The formation itself, called the Bunter sandstone or Buntsandstein, is from the early Triassic geologic age. It is older than the white chalk that underlies the island Düne, the same rock that forms the White Cliffs of Dover in England and cliffs of Danish and German islands in the Baltic Sea. A small chalk rock close to Heligoland, called witt Kliff (white cliff),{{cite web |url=http://www.esys.org/ftp/helgoland-detail.gif |title=Nautical chart "Helgoland" |publisher=Europäisches Segel-Informationssystem |access-date=27 July 2008 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080805071446/http://www.esys.org/ftp/helgoland-detail.gif |archive-date=5 August 2008}} is known to have existed within sight of the island to the west until the early 18th century, when storm floods finally eroded it to below sea level.

Heligoland's rock is significantly harder than the postglacial sediments and sands forming the islands and coastlines to the east of the island. This is why the core of the island, which a thousand years ago was still surrounded by a large low-lying marshland and sand dunes separated from coast in the east only by narrow channels, has remained to this day, although the onset of the North Sea has long eroded away all of its surroundings. A small piece of Heligoland's sand dunes remains – the sand isle just across the harbour called Düne (Dune). A referendum in June 2011 dismissed a proposal to reconnect the main island to the Düne islet with a landfill.{{cite news |url=http://www.kn-online.de/schleswig_holstein/aus_dem_land/238639-Helgolaender-stimmen-gegen-Inselvergroesserung.html |work=Kieler Nachrichten |title=Helgoländer stimmen gegen Inselvergrößerung |language=de |date=26 June 2011 |access-date=27 June 2011 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110630121313/http://www.kn-online.de/schleswig_holstein/aus_dem_land/238639-Helgolaender-stimmen-gegen-Inselvergroesserung.html |archive-date=30 June 2011}}

File:Helgoland 3080-Pano.jpg

{{clear}}

File:Flag of Helgoland.svg

The Heligoland flag is very similar to its coat of arms – it is a tricolour flag with three horizontal bars, from top to bottom: green, red and white. Each of the colours has its symbolic meaning, as expressed in its motto:[https://books.google.com/books?id=aes9AAAAYAAJ&dq=Gr%C3%BCn%20ist%20das%20Land%2C%20rot%20ist%20die%20Kant%2C%20wei%C3%9F%20ist%20der%20Sand%2C%20das%20sind%20die%20Farben%20von%20Helgoland.&pg=PA168 Helgoland: Schilderungen und Erörterungen], Friedrich Oetker, F. Duncker (W. Besser), 185, page 168

There is an alternative version in which the word {{lang|de|Sand}} ("sand") is replaced with {{lang|de|Strand}} ("beach").[https://books.google.com/books?id=hoaa4Wc4ZQYC&dq=%22wei%C3%9F+ist+der+Strand%22&pg=PA23 Die National- und Landesfarben von 150 Staaten der Erde: mit historischen Erläuterungen für belehrende und praktische, namentlich decorative Zwecke], Alfred Grenser, 1881, page 23

File:Heligoland Police car.jpg

File:Herligoland Harbour 20090626 001.JPG

File:Helgoland2021OSM.png

A special section in the German traffic regulations (Straßenverkehrsordnung, abbr. StVO), §50, prohibits the use of automobiles and bicycles on the island.{{Cite web |url=http://www.gesetze-im-internet.de/stvo_2013/__50.html |title=§ 50 StVO 2013 – Einzelnorm |website=Gesetze-im-internet.de |access-date=21 March 2022}}

The island received its first police car on 17 January 2006; until then the island's policemen moved on foot and by bicycle, being exempt from the bicycle ban.{{Cite news |date=17 January 2007 |title=Schluss mit Autofrei: Polizei auf Helgoland bekommt Streifenwagen |url=https://www.spiegel.de/auto/aktuell/schluss-mit-autofrei-polizei-auf-helgoland-bekommt-streifenwagen-a-460435.html |access-date=1 March 2024 |work=Der Spiegel |language=de |issn=2195-1349}}

Ambulance services are provided by the Paracelsus North Sea Clinic Helgoland in co-operation with the State Rescue Service of Schleswig-Holstein (RKiSH). There are three ambulances available: one on the main island and one on Düne; the third is in reserve on the main island.

The ambulance service drives first to the Paracelsus North Sea Clinic. In the event of serious injuries or illnesses, the patients are transferred to the mainland either with a rescue helicopter or a sea rescue cruiser operated by the German Society for the Rescue of Shipwrecked Persons (DGzRS).

If there is an emergency on the Düne, the ambulance crew takes a boat to the Düne and carries out the operation with the ambulance based there.{{cite web |url=https://www.rkish.de/unsere-wachen/unsere-wachen-details/rettungswache-helgoland.html |title=Rettungswache Helgoland |website=Rkish.de |access-date=9 February 2022}}

Fire protection and technical assistance are provided by the Helgoland volunteer fire brigade, which has three stations (Unterland, Oberland and Düne).The tasks also include ensuring fire protection during flight operations at the Heligoland-Düne airfield. Volunteer firefighters are deployed on Düne in the summer, who report for 14 days and go on holiday with their families on the island and go into action in an emergency.

There are normally five police officers based on Heligoland. They have the use of an electric car and a number of bicycles. In the summer months the population can also triple with up to 3,000 day-trippers and additional overnight visitors. Occasionally, the usual complement of police officers is supplemented by additional officers from the mainland during this period.

Since 2021, the so-called BOS centre, a joint service building for the fire brigade, ambulance service and police, has been under construction on the Oberland, and will incorporate five apartments for police staff on the upper floor.{{Cite web |url=https://www.sueddeutsche.de/politik/kommunen-helgoland-neues-zentrum-fuer-feuerwehr-rettungsdienst-und-polizei-dpa.urn-newsml-dpa-com-20090101-210104-99-890966 |title=Neues Zentrum für Feuerwehr, Rettungsdienst und Polizei |website=Suddeutsche.de |date=4 January 2021 |access-date=21 March 2022}}

File:Eva von der Osten.jpg, 1918]]

• Peter Andresen Oelrichs (1781–1869), a lexicographer and linguist.
• John Hindmarsh (1785–1860), veteran of the Battle of Trafalgar and first governor of South Australia, the governor of Heligoland 1840–57
• Heinrich Gätke (1814–1897), artist and ornithologist, died on the island
• August Uihlein (1842–1911), a German-American brewer, business executive and horse breeder, died on the island
• Richard Mansfield (1857–1907), actor, brought up on the island.{{Cite EB1911 |wstitle= Mansfield, Richard |volume= 17 |page= 600 |short=1}}
• Robert Knud Friedrich Pilger (1876–1953), botanist born in Heligoland, specialised in the study of conifers.
• Eva von der Osten (1881–1936), the soprano, was born here.
• James Krüss (1926–1997), writer of children's and picture books, illustrator, poet, dramatist and scriptwriter

• Heligoland appeared in the British Shipping Forecast up until 1956 when it was renamed German Bight.{{citation |author= |title=Fact sheet 8 – The Shipping Forecast |date=2015 |url=https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/binaries/content/assets/metofficegovuk/pdf/research/library-and-archive/library/publications/factsheets/factsheet_8-shipping-forecast.pdf |publisher=Met Office |access-date=26 October 2019}} The name of Shena Mackay's 2003 novel Heligoland is prompted by its disappearance from the forecast.
• Physicist Carlo Rovelli titled his 2020 popular science book on quantum mechanics Helgoland. This is because Werner Heisenberg got the first intuition about the theory while staying on the island in the 1920s.
• In the game Battlefield 1, Heligoland Bight appeared as a map in the Turning Tides expansion DLC with the German army defending against the British Royal Marines.[https://www.ea.com/en-au/games/battlefield/news/all-you-need-to-know-turning-tides-release], ea.com/games/battlefield/news, Retrieved 14th February 2025
• Composer Anton Bruckner wrote a cantata in 1893 titled Helgoland commemorating Britain's gift of the island to Germany a few years earlier. It was Bruckner's last completed work.{{fact|date=May 2024}}
• British trip-hop group Massive Attack named their studio album after the island.{{fact|date=May 2024}}

File:Governor's flag of British Heligoland.svg

The British Lieutenant-Governors of Heligoland from 1807 to 1890 were:{{Citation needed|date=May 2019}}

• 1807–1808: Corbet James d'Auvergne
• 1808–1815: William Osborne Hamilton (1750–1818)
• 1815–1840: Sir Henry King{{cite book |last1=Rüger |first1=Jan |title=Helgoland: Britain, Germany, and the Struggle for the North Sea |date=2019 |publisher=Oxford University Press |isbn=9780199672479}}
• 1840–1856: Sir John Hindmarsh{{London Gazette|issue=19899|page=2161|date=29 September 1840}}
• 1857–1863: Richard Pattinson{{London Gazette|issue=21976|page=945|date=10 March 1857}}
• 1863–1881: Sir Henry Berkeley Fitzhardinge Maxse
• 1881–1888: Sir John Terence Nicholls O'Brien
• 1888–1890: Arthur Cecil Stuart Barkly

• Forseti – a Norse god whose central place of worship was at Heligoland
• Location hypotheses of Atlantis – Heligoland is hypothesized as a possible location for Atlantis by the Austrian-born author Jürgen Spanuth.
• Postage stamps and postal history of Heligoland
• Heligoland–Zanzibar Treaty

{{Clear}}

{{reflist}}

• {{cite journal |last=Charlier |first=C. |year=1947 |title=L'explosion d'Heligoland. – Discussion des observations effectuées à Uccle |language=fr |journal=Ciel et Terre |volume=64 |pages=193–214 |bibcode=1948C&T....64..193C}}
• {{cite journal |last=Gardner |first=N. |year=2008 |url=http://www.hiddeneurope.co.uk/an-island-outpost-helgoland |title=An island outpost: Helgoland |journal=Hidden Europe Magazine |number=20 |pages=2–7 |issn=1860-6318}} Historical synopsis with review of modern economy and society on Heligoland.
• {{cite journal |last1=Reich |first1=H. |last2=Foertsch |first2=O. |last3=Schulze |first3=G. A. |year=1951 |url=http://www.agu.org/journals/ABS/1951/JZ056i002p00147.shtml |title=Results of seismic observations in Germany on the Heligoland explosion of April 18, 1947 |journal=Journal of Geophysical Research |volume=56 |issue=2 |pages=147–156 |bibcode=1951JGR....56..147R |doi=10.1029/JZ056i002p00147|url-access=subscription }}

• Andres, Jörg: Insel Helgoland. Die »Seefestung« und ihr Erbe. Ch. Links Verlag, Berlin 2015, {{ISBN|978-3-86153-770-0}}.
• {{cite book |last=Black |first=William George |title=Heligoland and the Islands of the North-Sea |year=1888 |publisher=W. Blackwood |location=Edinburgh}}
• Dierschke, Jochen: Die Vogelwelt der Insel Helgoland. Missing Link E. G., 2011, {{ISBN|978-3-00-035437-3}}.
• {{cite book |last=Drower |first=George |title=Heligoland: The True Story of German Bight and the Island That Britain Forgot |publisher=History Press |location=Stroud, UK |year=2011 |isbn=9780752460673}} (originally published in 2002, {{ISBN|0-7509-2600-7}})
• Friederichs, A.: Wir wollten Helgoland retten – Auf den Spuren der Widerstandsgruppe von 1945. Museum Helgoland, 2010, {{ISBN|978-3-00-030405-7}}.
• Grahn-Hoek, Heike: Roter Flint und Heiliges Land Helgoland. Wachholtz-Verlag, Neumünster 2009, {{ISBN|978-3-529-02774-1}}.
• {{cite book |last=Ritsema |first=Alex |title=Heligoland, Past and Present |publisher=Lulu Press |year=2007 |isbn=978-1847531902}}
• Wallmann, Eckhard: Eine Kolonie wird deutsch – Helgoland zwischen den Weltkriegen. Nordfriisk Instituut, Bredstedt 2012, {{ISBN|978-3-88007-376-0}}.

[https://api.parliament.uk/historic-hansard/commons/1890/jul/24/second-beading Second Reading in the House of Commons]

[

{{wikivoyage|Heligoland}}

• [http://www.criticalpast.com/video/65675040084_big-guns_dismantle-gun-emplacements_sea-defenses_man-sit-on-the-gun-barrel Film clip of coast defenses ]
• [https://www.helgoland.de/en/thats-helgoland/virtual-tour/ Heligoland Tourist Board] – includes a virtual tour of the island.
• [https://web.archive.org/web/20060721222825/http://velutina.brinkster.net/Helgopalmen/Englisch/StartPage.htm Site about planting palms on Heligoland]
• [https://web.archive.org/web/20180731120533/http://www.oag-helgoland.de/en/ Heligoland Bird Observatory]
• [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5mc_QTuvTuw Footage of Destruction of Heligoland fortifications April 1947]

{{Cities and towns in Pinneberg (district)}}

{{Frisian Islands}}

{{British overseas territories}}

{{Authority control}}

Category:Archipelagoes of Germany

Category:Landforms of Schleswig-Holstein

Category:Special territories of the European Union

Category:Former British colonies and protectorates in Europe

Category:Car-free islands of Europe

Category:Germany–United Kingdom relations

Category:Pinneberg (district)

Category:Frisian Islands

Category:1807 establishments in the British Empire

Category:1890 disestablishments in the British Empire

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