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history of rock climbing

{{Short description|Key chronological milestones}}

File:Napes Needle.jpg, on the Great Gable in the Lake District, England, was first climbed by W. P. Haskett Smith in June 1886; an act that is widely considered to be the start of the sport of rock climbing in the UK.{{cite journal | title=The Origin and Early Evolution of Rock Climbing | date=9 August 2021 | first1=Beifeng | last1=Zhu | first2=Ruizhi | last2=Chen | first3=Yuan | last3=Li | doi=10.2991/assehr.k.210806.124 | publisher=Atlantis Press | journal=Advances in Social Science, Education and Humanities Research | series=Proceedings of the 2021 5th International Seminar on Education, Management and Social Sciences (ISEMSS 2021) | pages=662–667 | volume=571 | isbn=978-94-6239-414-8 | url=https://www.atlantis-press.com/proceedings/isemss-21/125959751| doi-access=free }}]]

{{rock climbing}}

In the history of rock climbing,{{efn|Rock climbing does not include general mountaineering or ice climbing-related disciplines such as alpine climbing (although it does include Alpine big wall climbing), or mixed climbing}} the three main sub-disciplines – bouldering, single-pitch climbing, and big wall (and multi-pitch) climbing – can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau, and was advanced by Pierre Allain in the 1930s, and John Gill in the 1950s. Big wall climbing, mostly free climbing but with some sections of aid pitons, started in the Dolomites, and was spread across the Alps in the 1930s by climbers such as Emilio Comici and Riccardo Cassin, and in the 1950s by Walter Bonatti, before reaching Yosemite where it was led in the 1950s to 1970s by climbers such as Royal Robbins. Single-pitch climbing started pre-1900 in both the Lake District and in Saxony, and by the late-1970s had spread widely with climbers such as Ron Fawcett (Britain), Bernd Arnold (Germany), Patrick Berhault (France), Ron Kauk and John Bachar (USA).

As a free solo exercise with no artificial aid or climbing protection, bouldering remained largely consistent since its origins. Single-pitch climbing generally stopped using artificial aid in the early 20th-century, led by Paul Preuss, so-called "free climbing". Free climbing of Big Walls started before World War I, and was advanced by Emil Solleder in the 20s, Batista Vinatzer in the 30s, and Mathias Rebitsch in the late-40s. Climbing protection was desired for single-pitch and big-wall free climbing, and it was inserted into the rock while climbing up from the bottom and then removed if possible; this is now called "traditional climbing". By the 1980s, French pioneers like Patrick Edlinger wanted to climb rock faces in Buoux and Verdon that had few cracks in which to insert traditional climbing protection. Controversially, they pre-drilled very strong, permanent bolts from above on rappel, using battery powered drills, into potential new routes for every lead climber's protection (but not as artificial aid); this became known as "sport climbing". This safer form of lead climbing, along with a slow erosion of free climbing ethics (e.g. bolts, projecting, chalk, hangdogging), enabled a dramatic increase in climbing standards, grades, and tools (e.g. artificial climbing walls and campus boards), the development of competition climbing (initially dominated in the 1990s by French climbers such as François Legrand), and the "professional" rock climber.

By the end of the 20th-century, the hardest sport climbs were often combinations of bouldering-moves, and some of the best challenges lay in free climbing extreme big walls; this led to greater cross-over amongst the three sub-disciplines. Leading climbers such as Wolfgang Güllich, Jerry Moffatt, Alexander Huber, Fred Nicole, Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, and Tommy Caldwell set records in several of these disciplines. Güllich and Huber also made ever-bolder single-pitch free solo climbs, while Sharma pushed standards in deep-water soloing; Alex Honnold's big wall free soloing was turned into the Oscar-winning film, Free Solo. In 2016, the IOC announced that competition climbing would be a medal sport in the 2020 Summer Olympics.

Female rock climbing developed later in the 20th-century but by the 1980s, climbers such as Lynn Hill and Catherine Destivelle were closing the gap to the standard of routes being climbed by the leading men. By the 21st-century, Josune Bereziartu, Angela Eiter and Ashima Shiraishi, had closed the gap to the highest sport and boulder climbing grades achieved by men to within one/two notches; Beth Rodden fully closed the gap for traditional climbing grades in 2008 and Janja Garnbret became the most successful competition climber in history with 42 IFSC world cup golds.

Origins

File:Fontainebleau Boulders -001.jpg, the birthplace of bouldering at the turn of the 20th-century.]]

There are early documented examples of people "rock climbing" to achieve various objectives. The Le Quart Livre records that in 1492, ordered by his king, Antoine de Ville used castle siege tactics to ascend Mont Aiguille, a 300-meter rock tower, near Grenoble, France.{{cite journal|last=Middendorf|first=John|author-link=John Middendorf|url=http://www.bigwalls.net/climb/mechadv/index.html|title=The Mechanical Advantage: Tools for the Wild Vertical|journal=Ascent|year=1999|access-date=21 December 2022 | publisher=Sierra Club | pages=149–173}} In 1695, Martin Martin described the traditional practice of fowling by climbing with the use of ropes in the Hebrides of Scotland, especially on St Kilda.Martin, Martin (1703) [http://www.appins.org/martin.htm "A Voyage to St. Kilda" in A Description of The Western Islands of Scotland] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070313003106/http://www.appins.org/martin.htm |date=2007-03-13 }}. Retrieved 3 March 2007.

The first ascent of Mont Blanc in 1786, started mountaineering's "modern era"; however it would take another century until the fixed anchors of rock climbing appeared, including pitons, bolts, and rappel slings.{{Cite web|last=Edwards|first=Phil|date=2015-08-08|title=Mont Blanc's first ascent, and the crazed crystal hunter who made it| url=https://www.vox.com/platform/amp/2015/8/8/9119081/mont-blanc-first-ascent|access-date=2022-01-18|website=Vox|language=en}} By the early 19th-century, "alpine rock climbing" was developing as a pastime; the tools of the alpine shepherd guides (early mountain guides), the alpenstock and woodcutter's axe (later combined as the ice axe).

Although the action of rock climbing had become a component of 19th-century victorian era Alpine mountaineering, a sport of rock climbing (i.e. climbing short rock routes as a recreational activity without any summit objective), originated in the last quarter of the 19th-century, and in four European locations: the Saxon Switzerland climbing region in Germany,Goldammer, Albert & Wächtler, Martin (1936). "Bergsteigen in Sachsen", Dresden the Lake District and Peak District in England,Jones, Owen Glynne (1900). Rock Climbing in the English Lake District, G. P. Abraham & Sons, Keswick{{Cite book|title=Jim Puttrell: Pioneer Climber and Cave Explorer|last=Craddock|first=J. P.|date=2009-09-07|publisher=Matador|isbn=9781848761803|edition= First}} the Dolomites in Italy,Bergakrobaten: Die Dolomiten und die Erfindung des Kletterns, Città di Bolzano, Bolzano 2006 and in the forest of Fontainebleau in France.

  • The solo first ascent of Napes Needle in the Lake District, England, by Walter Parry Haskett Smith in June 1886 is widely considered to be the start of the sport of rock climbing in the UK. In 1897, O. G. Jones climbed Kern Knotts Crack at grade VS. By the early 20th-century, groups of 60 would gather at the Wastwater Hotel in the Lake District during vacations.Hankinson, Alan (1972). The First Tigers, J. M. Dent & Sons, London
  • The birth of climbing in Saxon Switzerland for nothing but sporting motivation is credited to gymnasts from nearby Bad Schandau who used ladders and other aid equipment to ascend the Falkenstein in 1864. Ten years later in 1874, O. E. Ufer and H. Frick free climbed the rock pinnacle "Mönch" with a similar motivation, consciously avoiding the use of aid equipment. Inspired by late 19th-century pioneers such as {{ill|Oscar Schuster|cs||de}} on Falkenstein, by 1903 there were 500 climbers in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region, including the well-known team of Rudolf Fehrmann and American Oliver Perry-Smith; their 1906 ascent of Teufelsturm at grade VIIb, set new standards of difficulty. By the 1930s, there were 200 climbing clubs in the area.
  • The 1887 solo first ascent of the Vajolet Towers by the 17-year-old Munich high school student Georg Winkler, encouraged the acceptance and development of the sport in the Dolomites, and in particular opened up the era of big wall climbing on the huge rock faces of the Dolomites, which spread over the wider Alps including the important centre of Chamonix in France.
  • By 1897, members of the French Club alpin français began to gather amongst the boulders of Fontainebleau to practice their rock climbing skills that they would use in the Alpine season; the boulders were shorter than the large walls being attempted in the Lake District, Saxon Switzerland or the Dolomites, but this led to the development of more advanced bouldering skills.

19th century

File:Falkenstein in der Sächsischen Schweiz (Sachsen) Nationalpark.jpg, in Saxon Switzerland where routes above grade {{climbing grade|6a}} were first climbed in 1906.]]

  • 1848: {{ill|Sebastian Abratzky|de}}, a local chimney sweep, enters the hill-top Königstein Fortress by climbing a chimney in the sandstone plateau to avoid the entrance fee; this is now considered the first free climb in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region, and is today a climbing route called Abratzkykamin IV (ca 5.4).
  • 1857: John Ball, future president of the British Alpine Club, makes an early first ascent of Monte Pelmo, in the Dolomites.[https://www.dolomythos.com/de/lexikon/besteigung-berge.asp Die Besteigung der Berge - Die Dolomitgipfel werden erobert (German: The ascent of the mountains - the dolomite peaks are conquered)]
  • 1859–1869: Paul Grohmann makes numerous first ascents of rocky spires in the Dolomites, such as Tofana di Mezzo, Sorapiss, Cristallo and Langkofel.
  • 1864: Gustav Tröger, Ernst Fischer, J. Wähnert and H. Frenzel, aid climb Turnerweg on Falkenstein, formally starting the sport in Saxon Switzerland.
  • 1869 : John Muir, the naturalist and climber, makes an onsight free solo of Cathedral Peak in Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite.{{cite web | magazine=National Geographic | url=https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/rock-climbing#:~:text=Most%20ancient%20people%20probably%20climbed,the%20Dolomites%20of%20Northern%20Italy. | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210327100131/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/rock-climbing#:~:text=Most%20ancient%20people%20probably%20climbed,the%20Dolomites%20of%20Northern%20Italy. | url-status=dead | archive-date=March 27, 2021 | title=Rock climbing: from ancient practice to Olympic sport | first=Freddie | last=Wilkinson | date=14 March 2019 | access-date=26 November 2022}}{{cite web | magazine=Outside | title=The 25 Greatest Moments in Yosemite Climbing History | date=1 June 2016 | access-date=4 December 2022 | url=https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/25-greatest-moments-yosemite-climbing-history/ | author=Editorial}}
  • 1874: Otto Ewald Ufer and H. Frick make the first first free ascent (no aid) of Mönch, in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region.
  • 1875 : George Anderson climbs Half Dome in Yosemite, using drilled eye bolts for holds, and a fixed rope to return to his high point each day.{{Cite book |last=Ament |first=Pat |title=A History of Free Climbing in America |publisher=Wilderness Press |year=2002 |isbn=0-89997-320-5 |location=Berkeley CA |pages=343–352, 186}}Climbing in North America, by Chris JonesMuir, John (1912). "[http://www.sierraclub.org/john_muir_exhibit/frameindex.html?http://www.sierraclub.org/john_muir_exhibit/writings/the_yosemite/chapter_10.html The Yosemite]".
  • 1876: Donald McDonald, a crofter from the Isle of Lewis climbs Handa, the first recorded climb for leisure in Britain.[https://books.google.com/books?id=VQdRDwAAQBAJ&dq=donald+mcdonald+stack+of+handa&pg=PT105 The Guga Hunters, Donald S. Murray][https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/uk-scotland-15834797/the-first-great-climb The First Great climb, BBC News]
  • 1876: {{ill|Jean Charlet-Straton|fr}} invents the basic body rappel in the French Alps; its most useful form, the dülfersitz, is invented in 1910 by Hans Dülfer.

File:2006-Vajolet.jpg, Dolomites; Torre Winkler, named after Georg Winkler, is the largest tower (centre); and was the start of early big wall climbing]]

1900s

File:Oliver Perry Smith.jpg (right) freed the first {{climbing grade|6a}} with Perrykante in 1906 in the Saxon Switzerland; a region where the world's first 6a/a+ (Südriss, 1910), 6a+ (Westkante, 1918), 6a+/b (Kuniskante, 1921), 6b (Rostkante, 1922), and 6b+ (Talseite, 1952) would also be freed.{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/cleaning-up-climbing-history/ | title=Cleaning Up Climbing History. The Truth Behind 13 Pivotal Ascents and Events | first=Jim | last=Erikson | date=19 April 2022 | access-date=9 December 2022}}]]

1910s

  • 1910 : {{ill|Hans Fiechtl|de}} replaces the attached ring on pitons with an eye in the body of the piton, a design still used to this day.
  • 1910 : {{ill|Max Matthäus|de}}, Oliver Perry-Smith, and H. Wagner ascend the Großer Falknerturm on Matthäusriß, in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region, Sax VIIb, maybe the first {{climbing grade|5c}}.
  • 1910 : {{ill|Max Matthäus|de}} leads Südriss on Kreuzturm, in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region, Sax VIIc, and hardest short climb for a decade, the first-ever {{climbing grade|6a/a+ 5.10a/b}}.
  • 1910 : Angelo Dibona, G. Mayer, M. Mayer, A. Dimai, L. Rizzi climb the 2,500-foot North Face of {{ill|Cima Una|it}}, in the Dolomites, UIAA V+ (5.8).
  • 1910 : Franz Schroffenegger and Franz Wenter climb the 450-metre Northwest Face of Delago Tower, and the 500-metre North Face of Croda di Re Laurino, in the Dolomites. UIAA Grade VI− (5.9−).{{Cite web|last=Bernard|first=Antonio|title=Precursors of the VI Degree in the Catinaccio Group|url=https://gognablog.sherpa-gate.com|website=Gognablog}}
  • 1911 : Paul Preuss free soloed the first ascent of the 900-foot East Face of Campanile Basso, in the Italian Dolomites, {{climbing grade|5.7}} on friable rock.
  • 1911 : September, Paul Preuss, starts the Mauerhakenstreit (piton dispute) and advocates for a transition to free climbing; in a series of essays and articles in the German Alpine Journal, he defines "artificial aid" and proposes 6 rules of free climbing including the important rule 4: "The piton is an emergency aid and not the basis of a system of mountaineering".{{efn|The two principal uses of pitons on an ascent are as protective safeguards (not used for actual hand or footholds - climbers refrained from putting weight on them except in the event of a fall) and as direct aid (used to physically assist in ascending a steep or overhanging slope rather than merely as protection). Climbers like Paul Preuss and Geoffrey Winthrop Young argued strongly against direct aid, but others of that era, including Hans Dülfer and Tita Piaz, advocated using such devices as artificial aids in order to climb otherwise unscalable walls. After World War I most European climbers chose to employ artificial aid when necessary. However, from the beginning days of rock climbing as a sport, through the 1940s, another form of artificial assistance was at times employed by teams of two or more climbers: the shoulder stand. From our current perspective, it seems odd that many of those climbers who strenuously objected to hanging on a piton found the shoulder stand to be quite acceptable. Occasionally, historical climbing photos, (e.g., [http://www128.pair.com/r3d4k7/HistoricalClimbingImages1.html]) illustrate this strategy, which arose from the perception that ascending a route was a team effort, with two climbers constituting one natural climbing unit. Something to keep in mind when reading of very early climbs in the 5.8 to 5.10 range.}}
  • 1912 : Angelo Dibona, Luigi Rizzi, and brothers Guido and Max Mayer, climb the South Face of the Meije, in the Massif des Écrins, France.Horst Höfler "Dream Teams – Die erfolgreichsten Seilschaften des Alpinismus." (2008) pp 25.
  • 1913 : Hans Dülfer free soloed, onsight, the 250-metre Dülferriss on the Fleischbank, in Austria, at UIAA VI− (5.9−) (6-pitches).
  • 1913 : Hans Dülfer and Willi von Redwitz, climb the 700-metre West Face Direct, on Totenkirchl, in Austria, at UIAA V+ with two rope traverses (5.8 X), in 8 hours (23-pitches, longest rock climb to date).
  • 1913 : Hans Dülfer, with only 3 pitons, leads the West Face Cima Grande, in the Dolomites, at 5.8 X (8-pitches); he invents a 5-step grading system, the rope tension traverse, and dülfersitz rappelling.
  • 1913 : Rudolf Fehrmann publishes the second edition of Der Bergsteiger in der Sächsischen Schweiz (The Climber in Saxon Switzerland), which includes the first binding rules for climbing in the area to protect the soft sandstone rock. These include that only natural holds of the rock are allowed for climbing. These rules for free climbing are still in use and haven't changed significantly.
  • 1914 : Siegfried Herford and companions, climb, using shoulder stands, the Flake Pitch on the Central Buttress of Scafell (5.8 A0, 5.9 today), Britain's hardest climb at the time (3-pitches).
  • 1916 : Ivar Berg free soloed the 60-foot Cave Arête Indirect at Laddow Rocks, Derbyshire, England, at E1 5a (5.9+), it was the first E1.Craggs, Chris (2009). "Western Grit", Rockfax, Sheffield
  • 1918 : {{ill|Emanuel Strubich|de}} climbs, unprotected, Westkante at the Wilder Kopf, in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region, at Sax VIIIa, the world's first-ever {{climbing grade|6a+}}, (2-pitches).

1920s

  • 1921 : Oswald Kunis leads the unprotected Kuniskante on Rauschentorwächter, in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region. Sax VIIIa/VIIIb, the world's first-ever {{climbing grade|6a+/b 5.10b/c}}.
  • 1921 :{{ill|Otto Herzog (mountaineer)|lt=Otto Herzog|de|Otto Herzog (Bergsteiger)|fr|Otto Herzog}} and Gustav Haber climb the 1,000-foot Ha-He Dihedral UIAA VI+ (5.9+) at {{ill|Dreizinkenspitze|de}}, in Austria, in 2 days of climbing; would not be repeated until the 1950s.
  • 1922 : Hans Rost leads, with 2 protection rings, the run-out on Rostkante, on Hauptwiesenstein, in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region. Sax VIIIb, the world's first-ever {{climbing grade|6b}}.
  • 1922 : {{ill|Paul Illmer|de}} and party ascend the unprotected Illmerweg on Falkenstein, Sax VIIc or {{climbing grade|5.10a}}, in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region; famous overhang known as "the mailbox".
  • 1923 : {{ill|Willo Welzenbach|de}}, adding to Dülfer's five grades, creates the Roman Numeral European rating system for rock climbs (Grades I to VI); this system eventually became UIAA grading.
  • 1924 : Felix Simon and Roland Rossi climb the 850-metre North Face of Monte Pelmo, in the Dolomites, Italy, at UIAA V+, placing 11 pitons.
  • 1925 : July 28, Fritz Wiessner, Roland Rossi climb Southeast Face of Fleischbank, Austria, at VI+/5.10a, 11 difficult pitches including 4 free pitches at Grade VI, a tension traverse pitch, and an aid pitch over a roof.
  • 1925 : August 1, {{ill|Emil Solleder|de}} and Fritz Wiessner climb the 750-metre North Face of Furchetta, Dolomites, a 20-pitch route and two pitches of UIAA VI (5.9) near the top.
  • 1925 : August 7, Gustav Lettenbauer and {{ill|Emil Solleder|de}} climb the 1,200-metre NW Face of Civetta, Dolomites in a day, UIAA VI− (5.9), 44-pitches, 15 pitons; world's hardest big wall climb.
  • 1927 : {{ill|Laurent Grivel|fr}} designs and sells the first rock drill and climbing expansion bolt.
  • 1927 : Fred Pigott experiments with slinging natural chockstones, and later machine nuts, for protection at Clogwyn Du'r Arddu on Snowdon, and led to the modern climbing nut.
  • 1929 : {{ill|Luigi Micheluzzi|it}}, Demitrio Christomannos, Roberto Perathoner make, in 2 days and placing only 6 pitons, the first ascent of the South Pillar of Marmolada, 5.9+, 600-meters, Dolomites.{{Cite web|title=100 Years Big Wall Free Climbing|url=https://gripped.com|website=gripped.com}}
  • 1929 : Miriam Underhill and Alice Damesme make the first "manless" ascent of the Aiguille du Grépon, in Chamonix, France.

1930s

{{Multiple image|perrow=2|total_width=300

|image1=Comici ritratto.jpg

|image2=Riccardo Cassin.jpg

|footer=In the 1930s, Emilio Comici (left) and Riccardo Cassin (right, once taught by Comici) pioneered big wall climbing tools and techniques, and set new "hardest-ever" routes in the Alps.}}

  • 1930 : Jack Longland leads, onsight, Javelin Blade at Hollytree Wall, Idwal, at E1 5b (5.10a X) with forty-foot runout at the crux.
  • 1931 : Emilio Comici invents the aid ladder, solid belay anchors, taglining, and hanging bivouacs; tools that changed big wall climbing. He used them all on his 3-day, 57-pitch, 1500-metre climb of the Northwest Face of the Civetta, in the Dolomites, mostly free (5.9+ with 3 aid sections, only 35 pitons).
  • 1931 : Robert L. M. Underhill and Miriam Underhill (Miriam E. O'Brien), Early climbing couples; Robert introduced European climbing techniques in an article in the 1931 Bulletin of the Sierra Club.
  • 1932 : {{ill|Batista Vinatzer|it}} and Giuani Rifesser climb Furchetta North Face route, Dolomites, adding a dangerous, 5-pitch direct finish, UIAA VII− (5.10b/c X), only 5 new protection pitons.
  • 1933 : Emilio Comici, Giuseppi Dimai and Angelo Dimai climb, in 3 days, the 1,700-foot North Face Dimai Route of Cima Grande, in the Dolomites, at 5.9 and 3 aid pitches; becomes the world's most overhanging big wall climbing route.
  • 1933 : {{ill|Batista Vinatzer|it}} and Vincenzo Peristi climb the North Face of {{ill|Monte Stevia|it}}, in the Dolomites, UIAA VII− (5.10c) (6-pitches).
  • 1934 : Pierre Allain champions bouldering at Fontainebleau; climbs L'Angle Allain, {{Boulder grade|5C}}.
  • 1934 : Dick Leonard, Jules Eichorn and Bestor Robinson made the first ascent of the Eichorn Pinnacle, at Cathedral Peak in the Sierra Nevada.
  • 1934 : {{ill|Raffaele Carlesso|it}}, Bartolo Sandri climb, in 2 days, the 750-metre South Face of Torre Trieste, Dolomites, UIAA VIII-, maybe the world's first-ever {{climbing grade|6c+}} but it is doubted that the crux was done totally free (35-pitches).
  • 1935 : Riccardo Cassin, {{ill|Vittorio Ratti|it}} climb the 700-metre North Face of Cima Ovest, in the Dolomites, takes 3 days and 60 pitons, 5.9 and 3 aid sections. Most committing big wall climbing to date.
  • 1935 : Pierre Allain, added a protective rubber rand to the side of a tennis shoe as a climbing shoe; later, in 1947, with Edmond Bourdonneau (EB), he markets a stiffer, flat-soled edging shoe, the "PA".
  • 1936 : {{ill|Batista Vinatzer|it}} and Ettore Castiglioni free climb, in two days, a 29-pitch route on the Marmolada, Dolomites, UIAA VII− (5.10c). Hardest long, totally free climb in the world.
  • 1937 : {{ill|Vitale Bramani|display=y|it||fr||mg}} develops and sells the first leather boots with "lug-soled rubber" (called tank-tread) for rock climbing, mountaineering, and hiking; called "Vibram soles".
  • 1937 : Emilio Comici re-climbs the North Face Dimai Route on the Cima Grande alone, with some gear but no rope, mostly free-solo (5.9), but pulling on some pitons, in three and a half hours.
  • 1938 : Riccardo Cassin, Gino Esposito, Ugo Tizzoni ascend, in 3 days, the classic, alpine, 3,500-foot Walker Spur of the Grandes Jorasses "...perhaps the finest in existence" Gaston Rébuffat.
  • 1939 : David Brower and the rest of his Berkeley crew use four bolts for protection in the process of ascending Ship Rock in New Mexico.

1940s

  • 1940s : World War II leads to the development of inexpensive, army-surplus pitons, carabiners and the newly invented nylon rope, making leader falls significantly safer.
  • 1945 : Chris Preston, after a top rope, leads, with no protection, the two pitches of Suicide Wall, in on the flank of Idwal Slabs (Rhiwiau Caws), Wales, at E2 5c (5.10c X).
  • 1946 : {{ill|Mathias Rebitsch|de}} and Sepp Spiegl create an 8-pitch route on Fleischbank, Austria, UIAA VII (5.10d) with four hard pitches: VII, VII−, VI, VI−.
  • 1946 : {{ill|René Ferlet|fr}} solves Marie-Rose, in Fontainebleau, France, considered one of the first-ever {{boulder grade|6A}} boulder problems.
  • 1947 : Pierre Allain, in France, and Raffi Bedayn, in the US, market lightweight, aluminum carabiners for climbing, significantly reducing the weight carried by climbers.
  • 1947 : {{ill|Mathias Rebitsch|de}}, and Franz Lorenz lead a traditional climbing route Nordverschneidung, on {{ill|Laliderer Spitze|de}}, Austria, the world's hardest big wall climbing route at UIAA VII (21-pitches).
  • 1949 : Peter Harding leads, after a top rope, the traditional climbing route Demon Rib, at Black Rocks, in the UK, at E3 5c is one of the world's first-ever {{climbing grade|6c}} routes.

1950s

{{Multiple image|perrow=2|total_width=150

|image1=John Gill 1968.jpg

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|footer=In the 1950s, "Father of Bouldering" John Gill, pioneered modern bouldering and set several new "hardest-ever" grades.{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/john-gill-father-of-bouldering/ | title=John Gill, Father of Bouldering | date=3 March 2022 | access-date=4 December 2022 | first=Owen| last=Clarke}}}}

{{Multiple image|perrow=2|total_width=150

|image1=Walter Bonatti 1964.jpg

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|footer=Walter Bonatti's iconic ascent of the Bonatti Pillar on the Dru cemented his status as one of the greatest big wall climbers in history.}}

  • 1950 : John Salathe and Allen Steck climb Steck-Salathe on Sentinel Rock, Yosemite, 5.8 A3, in a 5-day push. 16 pitches. Yosemite's longest wall climb.
  • 1951 : Joe Brown, wearing tennis shoes, onsighted Right Eliminate, at E3 5c or {{climbing grade|6b+}}, at Curbar Edge, UK, a poorly-protected off-width crack that is 50 feet long.{{Cite web|title=logbook/crags/curbaredge|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com}}
  • 1952 : Lionel Terray, Guido Magnone make the first ascent of Mount Fitzroy (11,020 feet), Patagonia, 16 pitches of Alpine rock climbing, 5.9 with some aid.
  • 1952 : John Streetly leads, onsight, the first free ascent of Bloody Slab, at E3 5b (5.10a X), at Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, in Wales
  • 1952 : Chuck Wilts publishes A Climber's Guide to Tahquitz Rock starting the Yosemite Decimal System, where climbs are rated from 5.0 to 5.9.Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 6th Edition, The Mountaineers, Seattle, Washington, {{ISBN|0-89886-427-5}}. P. 550.
  • 1952 : Cesare Maestri makes the first free solo of the 44-pitch Solleder Route on Monte Civetta, in the Dolomites, at grade UIAA VI− (5.9−).
  • 1952 : Harry Rost leads, using 3 shoulder stands, Talseite on Schwager, Schrammsteine, in Saxon Switzerland, at Sax VIIIc or {{climbing grade|6b+}}, (today all free at IXa).one of the world's hardest routes.
  • 1952 : Hermann Buhl, free soloed the first free ascent of Piz Badile on the 8th ascent, UIAA VI+ (5.10a), 21 pitches in 5 hours.
  • 1953 : {{ill|Robert Paragot|fr}} solves Le Joker, in Fontainebleau, France, considered one of the first-ever {{boulder grade|7A}} boulder problems.
  • 1953 : {{ill|Edelrid Corporation|de|Edelrid}} invents the "kernmantle rope" with an abrasion-protective outer sheath, making nylon ropes even safer.
  • 1954 : Joe Brown and Don Whillans climb the West Face of Aiguille de Blaitiere, 15 pitches including the famous Fissure Brown (5.10b R), in the Alps.
  • 1955 : Walter Bonatti did one of the greatest big wall climbs in history with a solo, single-push, first ascent of a new route on the Southwest Pillar of the Dru over six days.
  • 1957 : {{ill|Walter Philipp|de}} and {{ill|Dieter Flamm|de}} lead the 3,000-foot Philipp-Flamm on Monte Civetta, in the Dolomites. Longest Alpine free climb at UIAA VI+ (5.10 R with two very short aid sections).
  • 1957 : Royal Robbins, Jerry Gallwas, Mike Sherrick climb the NW Face of Half Dome, Yosemite, in 5 days. 25-pitches, 5.7 A3, 275 pitons and 20 direct aid bolts.{{Cite book|last=Meyers|first=George|title=Yosemite Climbs|publisher=Chockstone Press|year=1987|location=Denver CO|pages=History Section}} Birth of modern US big wall climbing.
  • 1958 : {{ill|Herbert "Fliege" Richter|de|Herbert Richter (Kletterer)}} leads Fledermausweg on the Sommerwand, in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region, Germany, at VIIIc or {{climbing grade|5.11a}}.{{Cite web|title=summits/schwager|url=https://www.teufelsturm.de|website=Teufelsturm.com}}
  • 1958 : John Gill solves Gill Right Problem, in the Teton Range, in Wyoming, the first-ever {{boulder grade|V8}} boulder problem; introduces gymnastic "chalk" to climbing.{{cite web | magazine=Alpinist | url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP12/editors-note-connections | title=Connections | first=Christian | last=Beckwidth | date=1 September 2005 | access-date=20 December 2022 | quote=..he took his gymnast's background to the gray schist boulders that dot the periphery of Jenny Lake. Here, he began exploring the overlap between gymnastics and climbing, and his introduction of chalk and dynamic movement marked the beginning of modern climbing in America"}}
  • 1958 : Warren Harding and team aid climb the 3,000-foot Nose of El Capitan using siege tactics (600 pitons and 125 bolts) over 45 days at grade 5.8/A3; .
  • 1958 : Don Whillans leads Goliath, a 30-foot crack, Burbage, in England, one of the world's first-ever {{climbing grade|6c}} routes. A bit harder today at E4 6a, as footholds have broken..{{Cite book |last=Perrin |first=Jim |title=The Villain |publisher=The Mountaineers Books |year=2005 |location=Seattle Washington USA |pages=184–186}}
  • 1959 : Royal Robbins and Tom Frost free (except 30-feet) the Steck-Salathe route on Sentinel Rock, Yosemite, at {{climbing grade|5.10a}} and 16-pitches, hardest big wall free climb in US.
  • 1959 : John Gill solves Red Cross Overhang (or Gill Problem), in the Teton Range, in Wyoming, the first-ever {{boulder grade|V9}} boulder problem.

1960s

{{Multiple image

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| image1 = Royal Robbins 2 by Tom Frost.jpg

| image2 =

| footer = Royal Robbins led Yosemite's big wall "Golden Age" from the late 1950s to the early 1970s, minimizing use of aid, unlike his rival Warren J. Harding.{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/royal-robbins-the-kingpin-of-yosemites-golden-age/ | title=Royal Robbins: The Kingpin of Yosemite's Golden Age | date=21 March 2017 | access-date=4 December 2022 | first=Chris | last=Van Leuven}}

}}

  • 1960 : Dave Rearick and Bob Kamps make the first ascent of Diamond (5.8 A3), Longs Peak, CO, a 10-pitch, Alpine, Big Wall climb all above 13,000 feet of altitude.
  • 1961: June. Allan Austin free solos, after a top rope, the FA of Wall of Horrors, Almscliff, UK, 5.11b or E3 6a.{{Cite web |title=www.ukclimbing.com |url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/almscliff-373/the_wall_of_horrors-65 |website=UKC Climbing}}
  • 1961 : Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, and Tom Frost, lead Salathe Wall on El Capitan in 6-days (484 pitons, 13 bolts); 5.9 A4. Single push by Robbins & Frost in 1962.Spirit of the Age by Pat Ament
  • 1961 : John Gill makes the first free ascent as an unrehearsed free solo, of the Thimble, 30 feet, in the Needles, South Dakota, USA, now considered the first-ever {{climbing grade|7a+}}.{{Cite journal |last=Gill |first=John |title=Tit for Tat |journal=Alpinist |issue=15}}
  • 1962 : {{ill|Claudio Barbier|fr}} free soloed the 57-pitch Comici Route on the Monte Civetta, Dolomites, Italy, as grade UIAA VI+.{{Cite book |last=Scott |first=Doug |title=Big Wall Climbing |publisher=Kay and Ward Ltd |year=1974 |isbn=0-7182-09672 |location=London |pages=113–124}}
  • 1964 : Royal Robbins and Pat Ament free climb Athlete's Feat, Boulder CO. Five very short, hard pitches (5.11a. 5.10d, 5.10d, 5.10c, 5.9).{{Cite book |last=Achey |first=Jeff |title=Climb! |publisher=The Mountaineers Books |year=2002 |location=Seattle WA |pages=137–139}} Most difficult multi-pitch in USA.
  • 1964 : Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, Tom Frost, and Yvon Chouinard climb the 28-pitch North American Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite, at 5.8/A5, was hardest aid climb.
  • 1964 : Dan Robinson builds the first climbing wall at Leeds University. After training two years on the wall, John Syrett onsights, in 1970, one of Britain's hardest routes, Wall of Horrors (E3 6a).{{cite web | website=UKClimbing | first=Mick | last=Ward | title=How the Leeds Wall Changed Climbing History | date=30 January 2018 | access-date=26 November 2022 | url=https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/how_the_leeds_wall_changed_climbing_history-10122}}
  • 1965 : {{ill|Fritz Eske|de}} leads Königshangel, on Frienstein, in the Saxon Switzerland climbing region, first Sax IXa or {{climbing grade|6c}} in Germany, and one of the hardest in the world.
  • 1965 : Europe's tallest rock face, Norway's 4,000-foot Troll Wall, is aid climbed by Norwegian and British teams who summit a day apart; the wall is rarely repeated.
  • 1965 : Yvon Chouinard, T M Herbert ascend, in a single push, the 32-pitch Muir Wall on El Cap, 5.9 A5. First new El Cap route by a party of two.
  • 1965 : Chuck Pratt and Chris Fredericks climb the classic, 2-pitch, off-width Twilight Zone in Yosemite, 5.10d X.
  • 1967 : July, Greg Lowe leads, on sight, first free ascent of traditional climbing route Macabre Roof, in Ogden, first-ever roped {{climbing grade|7a+}}.{{Cite web |title=Macabre Wall Proper |url=https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108604536/macabre-wall-proper |website=Mountain Project}} and also highest grade multi-pitch free climb.{{Cite web |title=Macabre Wall |url=https://www.thecrag.com/pt/escalando/united-states/wasatch-front/area/5799561183 |website=The Crag}}
  • 1967: August 8. Pete Cleveland leads, uninspected, Super Pin, 5.11a X Black Hills, SD, USA, risking an 80-foot groundfall. Boldest short FA. Unrepeated for 40 years.{{Cite web |title=Super Pin |url=https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108472076/pete-cleveland-route |website=Mountain Project}}
  • 1967 : October, John Stannard leads the first free ascent of traditional climbing route Foops, in the Shawangunks, one of the first-ever {{climbing grade|7a}} routes.{{Cite book|last=Williams|first=Dick|title=The Gunks Select|publisher=Vulgarian Press|year=1996|isbn=0-9646949-0-5|pages=292}} One of the first climbing "projects".
  • 1968 : Royal Robbins solos on aid (added aid bolt at crux) the Muir Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite, first time El Capitan is climbed alone (took nine days).
  • 1968 : Tom Proctor leads the traditional climbing route Our Father (E4 6b), at Stoney Middleton, England, one of the highest-grade traditional routes at the time.{{Cite web|title=logbooks/England/Derbyshire/StoneyMiddleton|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com|website=UKC}}{{Cite web|last=Ward|first=Mick|title=The Vector Generation|url=https://www.ukclimbing.com|website=UKC}}
  • 1968 : Reinhold Messner onsighted the 4th pitch Messner Slab, a 4-metre crux on a new 7-pitch climb, Central Pillar route of Heiligkreuzkofel, Italy; it is now considered the first-ever {{climbing grade|7a}} in the Alps.{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain.com | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/the-messner-slab-on-the-sass-dla-crusc-dolomites.html | title=The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites | date=7 November 2010 | access-date=2 January 2022 | first= Vinicio |last=Stefanello}}

1970s

{{Multiple image|perrow=2|total_width=300

| image1 = Ron Kauk - Yosemite - 2011.jpg

| image2 = John Bachar, in Tuolumne, above Yosemite, mid 1980s.jpg

| footer = By the 1970s, free climbing was a global sport with many leaders, including Ron Fawcett (Britain), Bernd Arnold (Germany), Patrick Berhault (France), Ron Kauk and John Bachar (USA, photo left and right)}}

  • 1970 : Bernd Arnold leads the traditional climbing route, the Schwager Nordwand, in the Schrammsteine, in the Saxon Switzerland, at Sax IXb, one of the world's first-ever at {{climbing grade|7a}}.
  • 1970 : Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell aid climb Wall of Early Morning Light (Dawn Wall), on El Capitan, 27 days on the 28-pitches at 5.8/A5.
  • 1971 : John Stannard promotes clean climbing with a "nuts-only" logbook and Eastern Trade newsletter; the 1972 Chouinard Equipment Catalog includes influential articles by Yvon Chouinard, Tom Frost, and Doug Robinson.{{Cite web |title=Eastern Trade archive |url=https://www.rockandsnow.com/219/Archive/ |website=Rock and Snow}}
  • 1973 : May, Henry Barber, free soloed, onsight the Steck-Salathe route on Sentinel Rock, a notable big wall free solo at {{climbing grade|5.10a}} (16-pitches).
  • 1973 : May, John Long leads the traditional climbing route Paisano Overhang, at Suicide Rock, California, considered the first-ever {{climbing grade|7b+}}.
  • 1973 : October, Beverly Johnson, Sibylle Hechtel, first female team to ascend El Capitan via Triple Direct; Hechtel called it "Walls without Balls".
  • 1973 : November, John Bragg leads the traditional climbing route Kansas City, in the Shawangunks, USA, first-ever {{climbing grade|7b}} (John Gosling's English Hanging Gardens also considered a possible first-ever 7b).
  • 1974 : Steve Wunsch leads the traditional climbing route Super Crack, in the Shawangunks, USA, considered one of the first-ever {{climbing grade|7b+}}.{{Cite web | last=Oviglia | first=Maurizio | title=The Evolution of Free Climbing | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/the-evolution-of-free-climbing.html | website=PlanetMountain | date=23 December 2012 | access-date=4 January 2020}}
  • 1975 : Jim Holloway solves Trice, in Boulder, Colorado, considered the first-ever {{boulder grade|8A+}} boulder problem (with Holloway's 1977 Slapshot).{{cite book |last1=Sherman |first1=John |title=Stone Crusade: A Historical Guide to Bouldering in America |date=1994 |publisher=The Mountaineers Books |isbn=978-0-930410-62-9 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=5PW1XYtfRQ0C |access-date=November 24, 2018 |language=en}}{{page needed|date=November 2018}}
  • 1975 : Steve Wunsch leads the bolt-protected roof on Pitch 2 of the traditional climbing route Psycho Roof, in Eldorado Canyon State Park, USA, considered the first-ever {{climbing grade|7c}}.
  • 1975 : Kurt Albert paints his first "Rotpunkt" (or Redpoint) on the base of the aid climb Adolf Rott Ged.-Weg (V+/A1), in the Frankenjura, signifying he had freed it at {{climbing grade|6a+}}.{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/kurt-albert-is-dead-goodbye-to-a-climbing-legend.html | title=Kurt Albert is dead. Goodbye to a climbing legend | first=Nicholas | last=Hobley | date=29 October 2010 | access-date=21 December 2022}}{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/remembering-kurt-albert-german-climbing-legend-father-of-redpoint.html | title=Remembering Kurt Albert, German climbing legend and father of the redpoint | first=Nicholas | last=Hobley | date=28 September 2020 | access-date=21 December 2022}}
  • 1975 : Charlie Porter aid solos the remote big wall, Northwest Face Mount Asgard, Baffin Island, 40 pitches, 5.10 A4. Alone for 9 days climbing; committing Big Wall climb.
  • 1975 : Ron Kauk, John Bachar, John Long, lead free (following on aid) all 12 pitches of Astroman, (5.11c) Yosemite. 5 pitches of 5.11. First continuous free ascent by Kauk in June 1977.{{Cite web|last=Hudon|first=Mark|title=Astroman's Pre-History|url=http://www.supertopo.com|website=supertopo.com}}
  • 1976 : Art Higbee, Jim Erickson, free climb the 25-pitch NW Face of Half Dome, Yosemite, at 5.12d (newer variations are 5.12a).{{Cite book|last=Reid|first=Don|title=Yosemite Free Climbs|publisher=Falcon Press|year=1994|isbn=0-934641-59-5|location=Helena MT|page=371}}{{Cite web |last=Wright |first=Cedar |title=What Valley Uprising Missed |url=https://www.climbing.com/news/wright-stuff-valley-uprising-missed/ |website=Climbing.com|date=18 February 2015 }} 3 pitches of 5.12, 5 of 5.11.{{Cite book|last=McNamara|first=Chris|title=Yosemite Big Walls|publisher=Super Topo|year=2011|isbn=978-0-9833225-0-4|location=Mill Valley CA|pages=172, 173}}
  • 1976 : Mick Fowler leads, after rehearsal, FFA of Linden, Curbar Edge, UK. E6 6b (5.12a X) 60 ft.
  • 1976 : Ron Fawcett free soloed Slip 'n' Slide, a 30-foot slab, Crookrise, North Yorkshire, England, at E6 6a (5.11c X), was one of the hardest-ever free solos at the time.
  • 1977 : Helmut Kiene, Reinhard Karl make the first ascent of a 10-pitch climb with off-width crux, Pumpriße, Austria. Officially, the first UIAA Grade VII (5.10d/5.11a). Nuts for protection.
  • 1977 : Ray Jardine leads the traditional climbing route The Phoenix, in Yosemite Valley, USA, first-ever {{climbing grade|7c+}}; uses his new SLCDs.
  • 1977 : Barbara Devine leads Kansas City, 5.12b/c, in the Shawangunk Mountains, USA, first-ever female {{climbing grade|7b}}.{{Cite book |last=Waterman |first=Laura |title=Yankee Rock and Ice |publisher=Stackpole Books |year=1993 |isbn=0-8117-1633-3 |location=Mechanicsburg PA USA |pages=285}}
  • 1978 : Ron Kauk solves Midnight Lightning, in Camp 4, Yosemite, considered one of the first-ever {{boulder grade|7B+}} boulder problems.
  • 1978 : John Gill solves The Groove, in Pueblo, Colorado, USA, considered the first-ever {{boulder grade|7C+}} boulder problem.
  • 1978 : Ray Jardine sells first spring-loaded camming device ("cams" or "friends"), which he invented years earlier, making traditional climbing crack routes safer and a bit less strenuous to lead.{{cite web | url=https://www.climbing.com/places/classic-routes-the-phoenix/ | first=James | last=Lucas | date=23 May 2018 | access-date=29 June 2022 | title=Classic Routes: The Phoenix | magazine=Climbing}}
  • 1978 : Dave Diegelman, Dale Bard, Jim Bridwell lead the aid climbing route Sea of Dreams on El Capitan, Yosemite, hardest-ever aid route at 5.9/A5 (27-pitches; 39 drilled holes).
  • 1979 : Tony Yaniro leads first free ascent of the traditional climbing route Grand Illusion, at Sugarloaf, Lake Tahoe, USA, first-ever {{climbing grade|8a}}.
  • 1979 : Lynn Hill leads traditional climbing route Ophir Broke, in Telluride, USA, first-ever female {{climbing grade|7c}}.
  • 1979 : John Bachar, after rehearsals, free soloed the 3-pitch "Nabisco Wall" via the Butterballs route in Yosemite, one of the boldest multi-pitch free solos at {{climbing grade|5.11c}}.{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/free-solo-rock-climbing-alex-honnold-history/ | title=Free Solo Rock Climbing and the Climbers Who Have Defined the Sport | first=Alison | last=Osius | date=4 June 2022 | access-date=26 November 2022}}
  • 1979 : Spanish manufacturer Boreal creates a "sticky rubber" board-lasted climbing shoe called Firé (Fee-ray), which materially increases performance on rock climbs.{{cite web | website=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/a-history-of-climbing-shoes/ | first=Noah | last=Walker | date=23 December 2019 | access-date=20 December 2022 | title=A History of Climbing Shoes}}{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/gear/shoemakers-and-record-breakers-a-brief-history-of-womens-climbing-shoes/ | title=Shoemakers and Record Breakers: A Brief History of Women's Climbing Shoes | date=8 March 2021 | access-date=20 December 2022 | first=Sam | last=Laird}}

1980s

{{Multiple image|perrow=3|total_width=150

|image1=Bild auf dem Gedenkstein fuer Guellich (retuschiert).jpg

|image2=

|footer=Wolfgang Güllich became the world's strongest sport climber by the mid-1980s and would set more new "hardest-ever" sport climbing routes than any other climber in history, and revolutionize climbing training techniques.}}

1990s

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| image1 = Alexander Huber (2009).jpg

| image2 = Lynn Hill in Stavanger during world cup in climbing 2015 crop.JPG

| footer = Alexander Huber and Lynn Hill were two of the most dominant rock climbers of the 1990s, setting new "hardest-ever" records in both sport climbing and big wall climbing.

}}

{{Multiple image|perrow=1|total_width=150

|image1=Fred Nicole - Portrait Zoom.png

|image2=

|footer=In the late 1990s and early 2000s, sport climber Fred Nicole revolutionized bouldering standards, and set several new "hardest-ever" records.{{Cite web |url=http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39887 |title=Fred Nicole, the bouldering interview |publisher=planetmountain.com |author=Nicholas Hobley |date=9 August 2012 |access-date=13 May 2013}}}}

2000s

{{Multiple image

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| total_width = 300

| image1 = Chris Sharma (USA).jpg

| image2 = Josune Bereziartu 2012.jpg

| footer = Chris Sharma and Josune Bereziartu were among the most dominant rock climbers of the 2000s, each breaking new "hardest-ever" grades on multiple occasions

}}

2010s

{{Multiple image|perrow=3|total_width=300

|image2=Angela Eiter.jpg

|image1=Adam Ondra by PAVEL BLAZEK 2.jpg

|footer=In the 2010s, Adam Ondra took on the mantle of "world's strongest climber" from Chris Sharma, with Angela Eiter the strongest female climber.}}

{{Multiple image|perrow=3|total_width=300

|image1=Alex Honnold - Trento Film Festival 2014.JPG

|image2=Tommy Caldwell (2015).jpg

|footer=Alex Honnold (left) and Tommy Caldwell (right) made two of the most iconic climbs in history at Yosemite, both of which became Netflix films}}

  • 2010 : August 17, Angie Payne solves The Automator, in RMNP, USA, first-ever female {{boulder grade|8B}} boulder problem.
  • 2012 : June 5–6, Alex Honnold, first to solo (with some aid) the "Yosemite Triple Crown" (Mount Watkins South Face, The Nose on El Capitan, and the Half Dome North West Face) in 18 hours and 50 minutes.{{cite web|last1=Bacon|first1=Sean|title=Honnold's Biggest, Baddest Solo Yet|url=http://www.climbing.com/news/honnolds-biggest-baddest-solo-yet-2/|website=Climbing|date=15 June 2012|publisher=Cruz Bay Publishing, Inc.|access-date=1 March 2017}}
  • 2012 : October 4, Adam Ondra redpointed {{ill|Change (climb)|lt=Change|fr|Change (escalade)}}, in Flatanger, Norway, the first-ever {{climbing grade |9b+}} (possibly now 9b/9b+).
  • 2012 : October 20, Tomoko Ogawa solves Catharsis, in Shiobara, Japan, first-ever female {{boulder grade|8B+}} boulder problem.
  • 2013 : February 7, Adam Ondra redpointed La Dura Dura, in Oliana, Spain, the first confirmed {{climbing grade |9b+}} (repeated by Chris Sharma).{{cite magazine | magazine=Rock & Ice | url=https://www.rockandice.com/features/perfect-play-what-it-took-to-climb-la-dura-dura-5-15c-the-worlds-hardest-route/ | first=Andrew | last=Bisharat | date=27 November 2013 | access-date=29 December 2021 | title=Perfect Play: What It Took to Climb La Dura Dura (5.15c) – The World's Hardest Route}}
  • 2013 : March 24, Alexander Megos onsighted Estado Critico, in Siurana, Spain, first-ever onsight at {{climbing grade|9a}}.
  • 2014 : January 15, Alex Honnold free soloed the 1,500-foot El Sendero Luminoso in Potrero Chico, Mexico, big wall free solo at {{climbing grade|5.12d}} (15-pitch).
  • 2015 : January 14, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson lead the first free ascent of Dawn Wall, Yosemite, first-ever big wall at {{climbing grade|5.14d}} (32-pitch).
  • 2016 : March 22, Ashima Shiraishi solves Horizon, at Mount Hiei, Japan, first-ever female {{boulder grade|8C}} boulder problem.
  • 2016 : August 3, the International Olympic Committee (IOC) announced that sport climbing would be a medal sport in the 2020 Summer Olympics.{{cite web |url=https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/olympic-games |title=Olympic Games Tokyo 2020 |year=2020 |publisher=International Federation of Sport Climbing}}
  • 2016 : September, Ethan Pringle leads Blackbeard's Tears in Redwood Coast, USA, the first-ever traditional climbing route at "hard" {{climbing grade|5.14c}}.
  • 2016 : October, Nalle Hukkataival solves Burden of Dreams, in Lappnor, Finland, first-ever {{boulder grade|9A}} boulder problem.{{cite web | magazine=Outside | url=https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/12-great-moments-bouldering-history/ | first=Matt | last=Cote | date=28 September 2017 | access-date=1 July 2022 | title=12 Great Moments in Bouldering History}}
  • 2017 : February 26, Margo Hayes redpointed La Rambla at the Spanish crag Siurana. First-ever female {{climbing grade|9a+}}.{{cite web|title=Margo Hayes repeats La Rambla, first woman to climb 9a+|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/margo-hayes-repeats-la-rambla-first-woman-to-climb-9a-plus.html|website=Planet Mountain|date=26 February 2017 |publisher=PlanetMountain|access-date=1 March 2017}}
  • 2017 : June 3, Alex Honnold free soloed the 3,000-foot El Capitan via Freerider, first-ever big wall solo at {{climbing grade|5.13a}} (in film, Free Solo).{{cite web |title=Exclusive: Alex Honnold Completes the Most Dangerous Free-Solo Ascent Ever |website=National Geographic Society |url=http://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/features/athletes/alex-honnold/most-dangerous-free-solo-climb-yosemite-national-park-el-capitan/ |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170603192910/http://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/features/athletes/alex-honnold/most-dangerous-free-solo-climb-yosemite-national-park-el-capitan/ |url-status=dead |archive-date=June 3, 2017 |date=3 October 2018}}
  • 2017 : September 3, Adam Ondra redpointed Silence in Flatanger, Norway, first-ever proposed {{climbing grade|9c}} (unrepeated).{{Cite magazine | magazine= Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/interview-adam-ondra-on-what-it-took-to-climb-the-worlds-first-5-15d|title = Interview: Adam Ondra on What It Took to Climb the World's First 5.15d|date = 9 September 2017 | first=Chris | last=Van Leuven | access-date=28 December 2021}}
  • 2017 : September 11, Anak Verhoeven leads the first free ascent (FFA) of Sweet Neuf, in Pierrot Beach, France, first-ever female FFA at {{climbing grade|9a+}}.{{cite web|url=https://www.outdoorjournal.com/news-2/anak-verhoeven-becomes-first-woman-establish-9a/|title=Anak Verhoeven Becomes First Woman to Establish a 9a+|date=18 September 2017|editor=The Outdoor Journal|access-date=7 July 2019}}
  • 2017 : October 22, Angela Eiter redpointed La Planta de Shiva in Villanueva del Rosario, Spain, first-ever female {{climbing grade|9b}}.
  • 2018 : February 10, Adam Ondra flashed Super Crackinette, in Saint Léger, France, the first-ever flash (not onsight) at {{climbing grade|9a+}}.{{Cite web|url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/adam-ondra-interview-after-worlds-first-9a-plus-flash-at-st-leger-in-france.html|publisher=planetemountain|title=Adam Ondra / Interview after world's first 9a+ flash at St. Léger in France}}
  • 2019 : March, Jacopo Larcher leads Tribe in Cadarese, Val d'Ossola, Italy, the first-ever traditional climbing route at {{climbing grade|5.14d}}.{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/top-16-hardest-trad-climbs-in-the-world/ | title=Top 16 Hardest Trad Climbs in the World | date=25 March 2019 | access-date=26 November 2022}}{{cite web | magazine=CLimbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/james-pearson-climbs-second-ascent-of-tribe-possibly-the-worlds-hardest-trad-climb/ | date=28 October 2020 | access-date=20 December 2022 | first=Bennett | last=Slavsky | title=James Pearson Climbs Second Ascent of Tribe, Possibly The World's Hardest Trad Climb}}
  • 2019 : June, Janja Garnbret is the first competition climber to win every IFSC world cup event in a season during the 2019 IFSC bouldering world cup.{{cite web | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/people/janja-garnbret-the-greatest-competitive-climber-of-all-time/ | title=Janja Garnbret, The Greatest Competitive Climber of All Time | first=Owen | last=Clarke | date=2 May 2022 | access-date=20 December 2022}}

2020s

{{Multiple image|perrow=3|total_width=300

|image2=Jakob Schubert Climbing WCh 2018.jpg

|image1=Janja Garnbret 2017 (cropped).jpg

|footer=In the 2020s, Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert became the most successful female and male competition climbers of all time.}}

  • 2020 : December 16, Angela Eiter leads the first free ascent (FFA) of Madame Ching in the Tyrol in Austria, first-ever female FFA at {{climbing grade|9b}}.
  • 2021 : March, Alfredo Webber, aged 52, free soloed Panem et Circenses in Arco, Italy, first-ever free solo of an {{climbing grade|8c}}.{{cite magazine | magazine=Climbing | title=Alfredo Webber, Age 52, Free Solos 5.14b | date=12 March 2021 | first=Bennett| last=Slavsky| access-date=4 January 2022 | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/alfredo-webber-age-52-free-solos-5-14b/}}
  • 2021 : April, Daniel Woods solves Return of the Sleepwalker, in Red Rock Canyon, USA, second-ever {{boulder grade|9A}} boulder problem.
  • 2021 : August 3–6, Alberto Ginés López and Janja Garnbret win the first-ever men's and women's Olympic climbing gold medals at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics in a combined event.
  • 2021 : September, Janja Garnbret becomes the most successful competition climber in history with 31 IFSC World Cup golds, at the Kranj leg of the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup.{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/garnbret-becomes-the-greatest-of-all-time/ | title=Garnbret Becomes the Greatest Of All Time | first=Noah | last=Walker | date=6 September 2021 | access-date=20 December 2022}}
  • 2021 : November 1–4, Janja Garnbret onsighted Fish Eye and American Hustle, in Oliana, Spain, first-ever female onsight at {{climbing grade|8c}}.{{cite magazine | magazine=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/janja-garnbret-becomes-first-woman-to-onsight-5-14b/ | first=Delaney | last=Millar | date=5 November 2021 | title=Janja Garnbret Becomes First Woman to Onsight 5.14b | access-date=4 January 2022}}
  • 2022 : April 29, Sébastien Bouin redpointed {{ill|DNA (climb)|lt=DNA |de|DNA (Kletterroute)}} in the Verdon Gorge, France, second-ever proposed {{climbing grade|9c}} (like Silence, remains unrepeated).{{cite web | website=Climbing | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/seb-bouin-climbs-new-515d-france/ | title=Seb Bouin Does Potential 5.15d FA, World's Second of the Grade | date=5 May 2022 | first=Anthony | last=Walsh | access-date=9 May 2022}}
  • 2023: September 20, Jakob Schubert redpointed B.I.G, previously called Project Big, in Flatanger, Norway, third-ever proposed 9c (5.15d) (like Silence, and DNA, it remains unrepeated).{{Cite web |title=Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger |url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/jakob-schubert-proposes-9c-for-big-at-flatanger.html |access-date=2024-09-03 |website=PlanetMountain.com}}

See also

{{portal|Climbing}}

{{commons category|History of climbing}}

Notes

{{notelist}}

References

{{Reflist}}

External links

  • [https://web.archive.org/web/20210327100131/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/article/rock-climbing Rock climbing: from ancient practice to Olympic sport], Freddie Wilkinson, (National Geographic, March 2019)
  • [https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize/guides/z2vf39q/revision/1 Rock climbing - history & factfile], BBC (2022)

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History

Rock climbing

Category:History of climbing